Morimoto Mini D2S HID Projector Retrofit [Archive] - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums

: Morimoto Mini D2S HID Projector Retrofit


LD CBR
05-08-2012, 11:14 PM
After going with a hi/low plug and play HID kit in my SV650, I was less than impressed. The low beams were pretty good and I liked the extra electrical capacity for accessories, but the "high beams" were horrible. It just shifted the same low beam pattern a little bit higher.

So for the CBR, I decided to go with an HID retrofit. I purchased the Sportbike Stage III kit (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=927) from theretrofitsource.com. I used the following parts:

-Morimoto 3Five ballast (35W)
-Phillips 85122+ (4300K) bulbs
-GTi-R shroud

I started with a brand new OEM spare headlight for the retrofit. The retrofit process was fairly straightforward. The projector has a threaded body so all that needs to be done is open up the headlight, slide the projector into the bulb opening, and tighten a nut down to secure the projector. The projector comes with an H4 adapter plate which is supposed to align the projector correctly for the most applications. For the CBR headlight this aligns the projector at an angle so I had to grind away the notch and rotate the projector to the correct angle. I also had to cut a small part of the shroud at the top where it was hitting the reflector. Other than that, no issues.

The stock headlight is fine, but the projector is definitely better than stock and my previous plug and play HID kit. There is a clear cutoff so I'm not blinding anyone and the high beam is awesome. I still plan to add some auxiliary lights at some point, but I'm really happy with the performance of the Mini D2S.

Here are the pics:

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6419/p1010095q.jpg

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/1757/retrofit01.jpg

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6853/p1010119jq.jpg

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/967/p1010120n.jpg

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/4016/p1010123x.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8310/p1010128b.jpg

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7996/p1010130z.jpg

llory
05-08-2012, 11:27 PM
Not bad at all! I've considered doing this myself but gotta wait until I got the money. Looks like the GTI-R shroud fits well in our headlight though I'm not sure that would've been my first choice (I really like the gatling gun 2.0 shroud paired with the mini projectors).

Excellent work though!

LD CBR
05-08-2012, 11:55 PM
Not bad at all! I've considered doing this myself but gotta wait until I got the money. Looks like the GTI-R shroud fits well in our headlight though I'm not sure that would've been my first choice (I really like the gatling gun 2.0 shroud paired with the mini projectors).

Excellent work though!

Thanks. I went with the GTi-R based on the recommendation by TRS. I really didn't have a preference one way or the other for any of the shrouds so I e-mailed TRS and just asked which one would require the least modification. The GTi-R shroud only required a little trimming and it's a simple design that goes well well the stock housing.

rice247
05-09-2012, 12:16 AM
****, that looks really good. I was thinking about a similar kit. I haven't taken the nose off yet to look at the headlight. How did you separate the lens from the housing? When I did my XRunner, I just put it in my oven for 7 mins, if I remember correctly. I'm assuming you did the same to heat up the glue?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Motorcycle.com Free App

NSU
05-09-2012, 06:52 AM
Funny, I bought exactly this combination from TRS over the weekend and it should arrive today. Glad to know it will work.

How much trouble was the wiring?

LD CBR
05-09-2012, 08:49 AM
How did you separate the lens from the housing? When I did my XRunner, I just put it in my oven for 7 mins, if I remember correctly. I'm assuming you did the same to heat up the glue?


Yes, I did 265* for about 7 minutes. It came apart pretty easy.

LD CBR
05-09-2012, 08:50 AM
Funny, I bought exactly this combination from TRS over the weekend and it should arrive today. Glad to know it will work.

How much trouble was the wiring?

Wiring was the easy part. With the TRS harness it is literally plug and play .

somebody5788
05-09-2012, 10:27 AM
Love seeing some real retrofits on the little CBR =) I'm going to have to get a harness ordered and do mine now!

Note to everyone though, when you get the projector test it first and make sure the hot spot is correct, and check the projectors focus. Sometimes it's a good idea to add or subtract washers from the projector lens. Also doing that you can make a nice blue cutoff line if you want that look.

rice247
05-09-2012, 03:07 PM
Yes, I did 265* for about 7 minutes. It came apart pretty easy.

Awesome thanks. I was saving for my exhaust. I think I'll have to get his done first. :)

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Motorcycle.com Free App

Jorsher
05-12-2012, 12:40 PM
This, my friends, is the proper way to put HIDs on your bike.

Thanks for the post. I will get these in the future.

NSU
05-13-2012, 12:37 AM
Well, I got mine done today. From start to finish working time took most of the day, about 10 hours, but it was also my first time removing anything from the CBR past the seats, so there were a lot of things I had to figure out.

Maxidax
05-13-2012, 12:52 AM
Screw motorcycles!!! All I do is look at sportbikes bikes on Craigslist, go miles on my 250, dream about mods, want new gear and desire nothing else. And I live the broke college life. I can't support this!!! But I want it! Rawrrrr XD

somebody5788
05-18-2012, 09:56 AM
I was just looking at the pictures of this again and had a thought, you may want to double check that the bulb is seated properly. I think it's causing your hot spot to be off centered.

NSU
05-18-2012, 12:07 PM
My hotspot is off as well (noticeably high and left), and it's tricky to keep the beam pattern level (since we have to grind off the retrofit kit's alignment tab) while fiddling with how the bulb is seated. It wants to rotate clockwise (when looking from behind) as you tighten the harness.

It would be easier to work on if I would take it out the whole assembly but I don't want to go through all that again. I'll continue to tinker with it, but as it is, the projector throws such an incredible amount of light vs. stock halogen that I'm not worried about perfection.

allen
05-18-2012, 02:36 PM
Looks great.. euro style projectors are so much better than the crummy reflectors we get here on stock vehicles. Massive bonus points for proper aiming and not stuffing some god-awful blue bulb in there.

LD CBR
05-18-2012, 06:48 PM
I will check the seating of the bulb, but I'm not too worried about it if I can't do anything about it. It doesn't bother me while I'm riding.

I also had the problem of rotational alignment because of grinding off the alignment tab. What I did was mount the headlight on the bike without the lens and aimed it. Then took it off and tightened it. It was tough to keep it from rotating while tightening down.

allen
05-18-2012, 08:34 PM
"high and left" is one you should fix if you can find a way, that's going just the right direction to bother other people driving (oncoming traffic) even if it's not bothering you. It doesn't look too bad in the photos though.

LD CBR
05-18-2012, 10:45 PM
Looking at the pics the hot spot is a little off but it wouldn't be something that bothers other drivers. There is no light above the cutoff on low beam.

NSU
05-19-2012, 02:26 AM
My hotspot is definitely above my cutoff, so on dipped beam it's out of the way.

I have a hard time feeling too guilty about glare anyway. One winking HID lamp won't blend in with the double headlamps behind me in the typical depth misperception case. On the scale of annoyance to society, I'd rank glare from bike HIDs an order of magnitude below the straight-pipe Harley scourge, with the added benefit that HIDs actually do contribute to safety.

A bike is so much more prone to bouncing the headlamp higher over rises and bumps, and leaning the bike unavoidably tilts the pattern right up into traffic. You'd have to have some pretty advanced technology applied to a motorcycle headlamp to match how a car naturally keeps it down on the road and level.

I am thrilled with the outcome of the retrofit.

SantaMonicaRy
05-21-2012, 04:08 PM
Which wire harness did you order? H4 or H7?

LD CBR
05-21-2012, 06:57 PM
Which wire harness did you order? H4 or H7?

H4 harness

Carbonado
05-24-2012, 10:31 PM
I thought I would share my experience with a simple HID conversion without a projector. I read somewhere that the beam pattern on the CBR 250R works well with an HID bulb so I decided to try it. There seems to be a good beam cut-off in the oncoming lane and I don't get drivers flashing their high beams. The HID high beam would probably be more even with a projector but there is so much light that night riding is much easier. The biggest problem was finding a good place to mount all the hardware!

HID conversion kit
Xtreme Motorcycle HID Conversion Kits (http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-Motorcycle-HID-Conversion-Kits-p/mc-hid.htm)

The Side Marker Lights looked wrong so I found some LED bulbs with the same colour temperature (4300 deg K)

4 x T10 Very Bright 4300K White LED Light Bulbs T-10 Wedge LEDs for exterior or interior lamps (http://www.aftermarketautoshop.com/cars-crossovers/4-x-t10-very-bright-4300k-white-led-light-bulbs-t-10-wedge-leds-for-exterior-or-interior-lamps/)

NSU
05-25-2012, 08:45 AM
It's only 40 bucks more to do it like a pro, but a few hours more labor.

Drivers won't flash motorcycles with the mainbeam glaring very often. It's hard to tell for sure when you're getting real glare or if the front end is just pointing up because of the road, plus they make an allowance for visibility.

Have a friend sit in a car in a parking lot and approach on your bike. Ask him if he noticed glare, and then offer to pay for his corneal implants. ;)

somebody5788
05-25-2012, 12:20 PM
I thought I would share my experience with a simple HID conversion without a projector. I read somewhere that the beam pattern on the CBR 250R works well with an HID bulb so I decided to try it. There seems to be a good beam cut-off in the oncoming lane and I don't get drivers flashing their high beams. The HID high beam would probably be more even with a projector but there is so much light that night riding is much easier. The biggest problem was finding a good place to mount all the hardware!

HID conversion kit
Xtreme Motorcycle HID Conversion Kits (http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-Motorcycle-HID-Conversion-Kits-p/mc-hid.htm)

The Side Marker Lights looked wrong so I found some LED bulbs with the same colour temperature (4300 deg K)

4 x T10 Very Bright 4300K White LED Light Bulbs T-10 Wedge LEDs for exterior or interior lamps (http://www.aftermarketautoshop.com/cars-crossovers/4-x-t10-very-bright-4300k-white-led-light-bulbs-t-10-wedge-leds-for-exterior-or-interior-lamps/)

Show me a wall picture from 30 feet back and I will show you the glare and why this is a bad way to do it.

Carbonado
05-25-2012, 08:13 PM
Good suggestion, I will do it. Thanks.

somebody5788
05-26-2012, 12:25 AM
Decided to do mine today since I was bored

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_160235.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_182359.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_183042.jpg

Kept the original dust boot so that I wouldn't ruin the headlight over time
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_202425.jpg

It's nowhere near this blue in person, cell phone exaggerates the color a lot.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_205632.jpg

I tried an LED I had laying around, didn't like it.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_211105.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_215232.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_215240.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_223351.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_230037.jpg


Hope you guys enjoy (and OP I hope you don't think this is a thread hi jacking hehe

somebody5788
05-27-2012, 04:23 PM
Couple more pictures

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120526_120058.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120526_122911.jpg

I have an extra projector and bulb/ballast. I'd be willing to do another install for someone if they want.

Carbonado
05-30-2012, 10:49 PM
Good suggestion, I will do it. Thanks.


Here are the photos of my HID conversion taken about 40 feet from the wall. The low beam has a good cut-off and does not seem to bother oncoming drivers. The road was wet so the foreground doesn't show well.

llory
05-31-2012, 09:34 AM
Here are the photos of my HID conversion taken about 40 feet from the wall. The low beam has a good cut-off and does not seem to bother oncoming drivers. The road was wet so the foreground doesn't show well.

ugh that's a lot of glare above the "cutoff" on both the low and high beams. Oncoming drivers most likely aren't flashing you because your headlight is aimed down and it would have to remain that way if you keep that setup.

somebody5788
05-31-2012, 12:54 PM
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/Glare.jpg

Compared to a properly done retrofit

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_223407.jpg

Also see how wide and smooth the light I'm projecting is? That's from less then 10 feet back and it's almost as wide as your HID in the stock light from 40 feet back.

allen
05-31-2012, 01:44 PM
Great illustration 'somebody'. I hope this helps illustrate why getting 'real' projectors and properly aiming them is important. Maybe it'll sink in with the lurking "cool, and I don't care if I blind/deafen/etc people" crowd.

If you don't care if your light is blinding oncoming traffic, then I hope you also don't care when some 'cage' comes into your lane suddenly.

Carbonado
05-31-2012, 09:24 PM
ugh that's a lot of glare above the "cutoff" on both the low and high beams. Oncoming drivers most likely aren't flashing you because your headlight is aimed down and it would have to remain that way if you keep that setup.


I think the headlight is aimed correctly as the high beam is parallel to the ground and is ideal for distance vision. Also the dip beam extends about as far as it did with the old regular headlight bulb. You are right that there is light above the low beam cutoff and nothing gives a sharp cutoff like a projector. The regular H4 bulb had a good beam pattern but on low beam there was also some light leakage above the cutoff. On my few night rides before the HID conversion I would often see the reflections of animal eyes beyond the area illuminated with the low beam. Might have even helped me avoid a collision!

My low beam HID pattern is very similar to the old H4 bulb but with more light from the HID, too much light above the cutoff might be a problem. When I walk down the road and have a look, my headlight looks bright (on low beam) but doesn't dazzle. Also see again my "down the road' photo on low beam and notice how dark the oncoming lane is.

Another related issue is that in daytime, I sometimes see oncoming motorcycles with projector headlights and it is hard to see that the light is even on because there is so little light leakage above the low beam cutoff. They are terrible for daylight visibility and a tungsten bulb with light above the cutoff would be better. The "cagers" have done a much better job as their daytime running lights are high beams running at half power - Visible without being dazzling!

As far as daylight visibility is concerned, I think motorcycles should imitate cars and have high beam on at half power and those with HID should be restricted to high beam at a similar brightness. This would perhaps eliminate some of those collisions where the car driver says "I didn't see him".

It all hinges on what is too much light and I will try to figure out a way of measuring this. If it is too much I will consider the projector conversion or even go back to the original bulb. If I only did daylight riding I would not use a projector because I find they make a motorcycle hard to see in traffic.

LD CBR
05-31-2012, 09:37 PM
Another related issue is that in daytime, I sometimes see oncoming motorcycles with projector headlights and it is hard to see that the light is even on because there is so little light leakage above the low beam cutoff. They are terrible for daylight visibility and a tungsten bulb with light above the cutoff would be better. The "cagers" have done a much better job as their daytime running lights are high beams running at half power - Visible without being dazzling!

As far as daylight visibility is concerned, I think motorcycles should imitate cars and have high beam on at half power and those with HID should be restricted to high beam at a similar brightness. This would perhaps eliminate some of those collisions where the car driver says "I didn't see him".

It all hinges on what is too much light and I will try to figure out a way of measuring this. If it is too much I will consider the projector conversion or even go back to the original bulb. If I only did daylight riding I would not use a projector because I find they make a motorcycle hard to see in traffic.

I always run high beams during the daytime, projector or not. The stock low beam isn't very noticeable during the day either.

NSU
05-31-2012, 09:42 PM
I always run high beams during the daytime, projector or not. The stock low beam isn't very noticeable during the day either.

Nothing stops the constant side road pull-outs quicker than opening the shutter on the main beam. I hate the proliferation of car DRLs.

somebody5788
05-31-2012, 10:25 PM
I think the headlight is aimed correctly as the high beam is parallel to the ground and is ideal for distance vision. Also the dip beam extends about as far as it did with the old regular headlight bulb. You are right that there is light above the low beam cutoff and nothing gives a sharp cutoff like a projector. The regular H4 bulb had a good beam pattern but on low beam there was also some light leakage above the cutoff. On my few night rides before the HID conversion I would often see the reflections of animal eyes beyond the area illuminated with the low beam. Might have even helped me avoid a collision!

My low beam HID pattern is very similar to the old H4 bulb but with more light from the HID, too much light above the cutoff might be a problem. When I walk down the road and have a look, my headlight looks bright (on low beam) but doesn't dazzle. Also see again my "down the road' photo on low beam and notice how dark the oncoming lane is.

Another related issue is that in daytime, I sometimes see oncoming motorcycles with projector headlights and it is hard to see that the light is even on because there is so little light leakage above the low beam cutoff. They are terrible for daylight visibility and a tungsten bulb with light above the cutoff would be better. The "cagers" have done a much better job as their daytime running lights are high beams running at half power - Visible without being dazzling!

As far as daylight visibility is concerned, I think motorcycles should imitate cars and have high beam on at half power and those with HID should be restricted to high beam at a similar brightness. This would perhaps eliminate some of those collisions where the car driver says "I didn't see him".

It all hinges on what is too much light and I will try to figure out a way of measuring this. If it is too much I will consider the projector conversion or even go back to the original bulb. If I only did daylight riding I would not use a projector because I find they make a motorcycle hard to see in traffic.

I don't feel like you understand how blinding that "little" light above the cut off really is. When you're out of the city where there are no other lights other then the cars driving that little bit of light makes it impossible to see ANYTHING while the cars/bikes are coming at you. 9/10 people aren't going to flash their high beams at you just because they are attempting to see the road and stay in their lane.

Sure the stock halogen has a little scattered light as well but it's nowhere near as much and the intensity of it is 30-40% less.

My personal choice is to not push my luck by pissing off the cagers. The last thing I need is some road raging maniac chasing me down because I blinded him. It's disrespectful to other motorists, negligent, and dangerous to do anything but a projector when you want to go HID. With my projector retrofit not only can I see better but I don't blind others and no matter what you think/say I know for a fact they can see me coming from miles away. I can see the light reflecting of signs when I hit a bump at well over a 1/4 of a mile in front of me and I can still see a clear line of light at 500 feet against an upcoming wall. Hell even in the mid day sun I can see my light reflect of signs if the nose is lifted.

If you are using your headlight to be visible in the daytime you are doing something seriously wrong.... You need to be more aware of what could happen and put yourself in a position to be more visible. It's not hard to do it just takes an attentive rider.

NSU
06-01-2012, 08:08 AM
I don't feel like you understand how blinding that "little" light above the cut off really is.

The way to check is to walk into it. I can guarantee that if he'd stand in the path of that area that looks like a very faint patch of scattered light high and center he'd be hit with massive glare.

The reason projectors need the sharp cutoff is because the faintest glimmer of directed (projected or reflected) light will dazzle oncoming traffic. Everyone needs to understand that HID kits are not the way to improve lighting.

Sure the stock halogen has a little scattered light as well but it's nowhere near as much and the intensity of it is 30-40% less.

H4 bulbs throw 1000 lumens at 55W. Mainbeam switches it to 1650 lumens at 60W.

A D2S arc throws 3200 lumens at 35W.

Any glare coming off a lowbeam HID kit will be twice as powerful as the highbeam on the stock headlight.

SantaMonicaRy
06-01-2012, 01:07 PM
How do you know where the "cut off" point is? Im getting ready to order a HID Projector kit but ive never done this before, how do you know where to "aim: the light? is there a certain distance from the ground at x-feet away etc...?

somebody5788
06-01-2012, 01:11 PM
The way to check is to walk into it. I can guarantee that if he'd stand in the path of that area that looks like a very faint patch of scattered light high and center he'd be hit with massive glare.

The reason projectors need the sharp cutoff is because the faintest glimmer of directed (projected or reflected) light will dazzle oncoming traffic. Everyone needs to understand that HID kits are not the way to improve lighting.



H4 bulbs throw 1000 lumens at 55W. Mainbeam switches it to 1650 lumens at 60W.

A D2S arc throws 3200 lumens at 35W.

Any glare coming off a lowbeam HID kit will be twice as powerful as the highbeam on the stock headlight.


What this guy said. Only part I would change is having the bike drive at you while you're out in the middle of nowhere at midnight and try to keep an eye on the road and whats in front of you. It wont happen.

llory
06-01-2012, 02:21 PM
How do you know where the "cut off" point is? Im getting ready to order a HID Projector kit but ive never done this before, how do you know where to "aim: the light? is there a certain distance from the ground at x-feet away etc...?

not sure if there are motorcycle specific ways but here's a document highlighting the procedure for a car. You can use it as a guide and test your aim on the road

NSU
06-01-2012, 05:54 PM
[quote=llory;60338]not sure if there are motorcycle specific ways but here's a document highlighting the procedure for a car. You can use it as a guide and test your aim on the road

I use Daniel Stern's guide and treat it like it's only lining up one side:

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html)

I can't remember what our lamp height is, (somewhere around 31" IIRC), but's it's under 34.5", so you want a 3" drop from 25' back.

When I aimed mine by the book I was putting too much weight forward and ended up a few degrees too high; I could tell the cutoff was hitting a little too high too far downrange, and could see the beam striking A pillars of oncoming cars. This is very bad.

Do it by the book, then carry an 8mm gearwrench to give a few twists to the right side adjuster to tweak it on the fly. Keep it in the trunk in case you're carrying a load or pillion and need a quick few cranks to lower it.

Use the guidelines to rough it in, then adjust once you observe how real world conditions affect the aim. Be aware that climbing or descending a hilly road will give you a false sense of aim. Only use flat, level roads to gauge aim.

somebody5788
06-01-2012, 09:16 PM
I use Daniel Stern's guide and treat it like it's only lining up one side:

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html)

I can't remember what our lamp height is, (somewhere around 31" IIRC), but's it's under 34.5", so you want a 3" drop from 25' back.

When I aimed mine by the book I was putting too much weight forward and ended up a few degrees too high; I could tell the cutoff was hitting a little too high too far downrange, and could see the beam striking A pillars of oncoming cars. This is very bad.

Do it by the book, then carry an 8mm gearwrench to give a few twists to the right side adjuster to tweak it on the fly. Keep it in the trunk in case you're carrying a load or pillion and need a quick few cranks to lower it.

Use the guidelines to rough it in, then adjust once you observe how real world conditions affect the aim. Be aware that climbing or descending a hilly road will give you a false sense of aim. Only use flat, level roads to gauge aim.

If you're keeping it under the seat make sure it's inside the bag thing. My 8mm Gear Wrench fell out going down the road... I found it but I was just lucky.

Bartholomeo
06-02-2012, 08:42 AM
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_223351.jpg

That's a beautifull cutoff.

If only some smart guys could make bike hid's self-leveling.
And make em "point' in the direction the bike is leaning so that the light is always 'flat', and lighting the way u are going.

kristianlauren
06-25-2012, 03:43 PM
Hey guys, good job on the retrofitting. I have just finished installing a projector in my spare lens I bought, but I can't find anything related to actually removing the OEM headlamp assembly. Is there a tutorial posted or can you guys tell me what I need to remove? I've done my own oil change so removing fairings isn't a big deal. Any tips would be great. I want to do a clean run of the wires and also knowing where to mount the ballast and other hardware would be appreciated as well. I have the service manual as well. Maybe I am missing something?

somebody5788
06-25-2012, 04:06 PM
Remove both fairings with the 3 allens that hold them on. Then remove the mirrors with the 2 allens on both of them. Next remove all 4 allens in the front cluster area. Now remove the 4 push button clips in both inner fairings. Then flip the front cowling forward off of the mirror stubs and remove the cluster by pulling up and unplugging it. Next remove the front cowl by pulling forward and unplugging the main harness connector and the sensor above the headlamp.

kristianlauren
06-25-2012, 06:17 PM
EDIT: I got it off. Thanks~!

@somebody5788

Thanks. I am now as far as trying to flip the front cowling. These four push button clips are on the inside, correct? Trying not to break anything here. I'm sure I got those four but "flipping" isn't exactly working right now. I'll try taking out the instrument cluster first.


Remove both fairings with the 3 allens that hold them on. Then remove the mirrors with the 2 allens on both of them. Next remove all 4 allens in the front cluster area. Now remove the 4 push button clips in both inner fairings. Then flip the front cowling forward off of the mirror stubs and remove the cluster by pulling up and unplugging it. Next remove the front cowl by pulling forward and unplugging the main harness connector and the sensor above the headlamp.

kristianlauren
06-25-2012, 08:01 PM
Any suggestions on where to mount the ballast and wiring harness?

NSU
06-27-2012, 07:20 AM
I tied mine down at the frame just behind the headtube, ballast on the right, wiring harness on the left and ran the wiring all the way back through the frame on the left side of the bike.

Smurfnessish
07-11-2012, 11:28 AM
so im thinking about doing this with my cbr, because i cant really stand how crappy the stock bulbs are ive had a bad attitude towards projectors for a long time because ive seen some nightmares for setups but i blame ebay for that haha so i think im going to do this retro fit but my questions are 1. whats the proper baking temp and amount of time for the headlight? ive read a bunch of different opinions and im trying to find a consistent number, also my second question is that i saw in the one video posted in one of these headlight threads how the guy painted the reflectors black...has anyone else tried this yet? im not too big of a fan of chrome so im thinking about it but with the stock sidemarkers im not sure how those would look or work.
any imput would be awesome! :D

NSU
07-12-2012, 08:07 AM
so im thinking about doing this with my cbr, because i cant really stand how crappy the stock bulbs are ive had a bad attitude towards projectors for a long time because ive seen some nightmares for setups but i blame ebay for that haha so i think im going to do this retro fit but my questions are 1. whats the proper baking temp and amount of time for the headlight? ive read a bunch of different opinions and im trying to find a consistent number, also my second question is that i saw in the one video posted in one of these headlight threads how the guy painted the reflectors black...has anyone else tried this yet? im not too big of a fan of chrome so im thinking about it but with the stock sidemarkers im not sure how those would look or work.
any imput would be awesome! :D

270 (Fahrenheit!) for 7 minutes. I had to reheat mine a few times but better safe than a sorry melted lens.

I thought about hitting the reflector bucket with some Duplicolor Metalcast which is translucent but ultimately left it alone, afraid it would look a little less clean and OEMish.

djinn
07-12-2012, 03:08 PM
I don't feel like you understand how blinding that "little" light above the cut off really is. When you're out of the city where there are no other lights other then the cars driving that little bit of light makes it impossible to see ANYTHING while the cars/bikes are coming at you. 9/10 people aren't going to flash their high beams at you just because they are attempting to see the road and stay in their lane.

Sure the stock halogen has a little scattered light as well but it's nowhere near as much and the intensity of it is 30-40% less.

My personal choice is to not push my luck by pissing off the cagers. The last thing I need is some road raging maniac chasing me down because I blinded him. It's disrespectful to other motorists, negligent, and dangerous to do anything but a projector when you want to go HID. With my projector retrofit not only can I see better but I don't blind others and no matter what you think/say I know for a fact they can see me coming from miles away. I can see the light reflecting of signs when I hit a bump at well over a 1/4 of a mile in front of me and I can still see a clear line of light at 500 feet against an upcoming wall. Hell even in the mid day sun I can see my light reflect of signs if the nose is lifted.

If you are using your headlight to be visible in the daytime you are doing something seriously wrong.... You need to be more aware of what could happen and put yourself in a position to be more visible. It's not hard to do it just takes an attentive rider.

I used to live in rural NH, so there were very few streetlights and it was usually incredibly dark when I drove at night. The latest trend with the idiots ricing their pickup trucks with blue and un-projected HID bulbs (or even overdriven blue HID wannabe bulbs) could get blinding, and it got even worse with the road wet. What I used to do (I had a proper bi-xenon retrofit in my Jetta and that biatch was BRIGHT!, but properly contained on dipped beams) was simply flash my highs at those dumb shiats. On rural roads, you generally keep your finger on the beam stalk anyway (so you can dip them quickly to avoid blinding people), so it wasn't that hard to do. :D

Now, despite the temptation, I never did it to motorbikes simply because they have enough to worry about without a hotspot in their eyes. It's just as blinding to have an uncontained HID capsule (e.g. in a reflector not made for a DxR HID capsule) on a bike coming toward you as it is in a car or truck.

Though it might be cheaper and easier to throw a bright bulb or rebased HID capsule into the stock headlight housing with no modification, FOR THE LOVE OF CHEESE, PLEASE DON'T DO IT!!!

/climbs off soapbox

Excellent retrofits, fellow bikers! Looking great!

NSU
08-05-2012, 02:48 AM
Finally got some pictures of my setup. Flash is off, so there's plenty of overexposure here, and there's also a bit of a floodlight intruding on the left.

The fence is also shaped like a nice cutoff pattern:

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb368/Sp_Ad/lbDSC_0412.jpg

highbeam shutter down:

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb368/Sp_Ad/hbDSC_0413.jpg

NSU
08-05-2012, 02:55 AM
LEDs in the marker lights too

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb368/Sp_Ad/aDSC_0412.jpg

Highbeam glare is wicked, completely drowns out everything else for the camera sensor:

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb368/Sp_Ad/aaDSC_0419.jpg

Ikazuchi Kuro
08-05-2012, 04:15 PM
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_211105.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_160235.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_182359.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_183042.jpg
Kept the original dust boot so that I wouldn't ruin the headlight over time
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_202425.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_205632.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_215232.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/somebody5788/My%20cars/CBR250R/20120525_215240.jpg


Goddmannit Somebody 5788, thanks for making me spend even more money I wasn't planning on.

(looks fantastic)

MrShadow
08-06-2012, 10:13 AM
I'd love to do this, but also put a ring of red EL cable (or LED light tube) around the projector...

somebody5788
08-06-2012, 02:05 PM
Goddmannit Somebody 5788, thanks for making me spend even more money I wasn't planning on.

(looks fantastic)

It's very much worth it.

I'd love to do this, but also put a ring of red EL cable (or LED light tube) around the projector...

To each his own, I'm just not a fan of it. I really like the clean OEM look myself. Plus it's illegal to run red lights on the front of your vehicle in the states.

punkass
09-09-2012, 10:59 AM
Ok, I feel like a total moron...just began installation of my Sportbike Stage III kit & for the life of me have no idea which plug goes to the ballast and the solenoid. No diagrams nor any kind of installation details were included & I searched the TRS site/forum but could not locate any info on this particular harness.

I ordered the exact kit as the OP...

-Morimoto mini bi-xenon (D2S)
-Morimoto 3Five ballast (35w)
-Phillips 85122+ (4300k) bulb
-Gti shroud

Can any of you guys who installed this kit please provide some insight into where the plugs circled in red are supposed to connect to?

Is the blue/blk for the solenoid in the projector?

Thanks in advance for any help!

3097


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magnus718
09-09-2012, 12:58 PM
punkass.....orange/black to the ballast....blue/black to the two little leads from the projector, it powers the flapper for high beams. i just soldered them and make quick connectors since the plugs that came with the kit didnt really work.

punkass
09-10-2012, 12:31 AM
Thanks, magnus! Appreciate the confirmation...can't wait to finish the install!


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UnMonk
09-15-2012, 11:20 AM
Still got that extra one for sale?

or got a parts list?

JMLDDS
09-19-2012, 10:35 AM
So this is pretty similar, right? and the wiring should be pretty straight forward..


Motorcycle StreetFighter Headlight HID HALO Projector | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-StreetFighter-Headlight-HID-HALO-Projector-/280702835404?hash=item415b315acc&item=280702835404&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)

NSU
09-19-2012, 11:52 AM
So this is pretty similar, right? and the wiring should be pretty straight forward..


Motorcycle StreetFighter Headlight HID HALO Projector | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-StreetFighter-Headlight-HID-HALO-Projector-/280702835404?hash=item415b315acc&item=280702835404&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)

Probably not bad considering your current oddball setup. I'm not sure if anyone makes a bucket that will fit a projector but I'd think that would look killer on a streetfighter.

JMLDDS
09-19-2012, 10:25 PM
Probably not bad considering your current oddball setup. I'm not sure if anyone makes a bucket that will fit a projector but I'd think that would look killer on a streetfighter.

What do you mean by bucket? sorry, new here..

NSU
09-20-2012, 07:16 PM
What do you mean by bucket? sorry, new here..

The typical round headlight housing on a cruiser or naked bike:

http://supremelegendsusa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/b/hb71010-4.jpg

Jme250RA
12-27-2012, 11:26 PM
I was just getting started on my stage III projector install when I came upon the washer to hold the projector in. I started thinking about how to making the install easier and decided to make my own custom washer to take the alignment problems out of the equation. After a bit of screwing around, I managed to figure out where the alignment tab needed to be in relation to where it was. I then had to find a vector drawing program and relearn how to use it. This is what i came up with.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s472/jme250ra/headlightringfinalcompare_zps8c612fbc.jpg

I'll take the file to the laser cutter tomorrow and see what they want to charge for cutting one out for me. I'll keep you posted.

Jme250RA
01-09-2013, 07:55 PM
just got back from the laser cutters with this.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s472/jme250ra/IMG_0331_zps45a6ec60.jpg

hopefully i'll get the chance to see if the new ring fits.

Kit
01-26-2013, 06:19 PM
Bump... how did it fit?

Jme250RA
01-26-2013, 08:25 PM
I just got the headlight together this week. the ring was almost perfect. the inner diameter was slightly smaller so I had to take the grinder to it and ream it out 1/32". it lines up beautifully and is snug. because there was a minimum order charge I got them to make me as many as possible. I have extra so if anyone wants one just pm me.

armstrr
01-26-2013, 11:46 PM
Pm sent! This is the first mod that really peaks my interest!

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Smurfnessish
02-10-2013, 06:39 PM
I thought I would share my experience with a simple HID conversion without a projector. I read somewhere that the beam pattern on the CBR 250R works well with an HID bulb so I decided to try it. There seems to be a good beam cut-off in the oncoming lane and I don't get drivers flashing their high beams. The HID high beam would probably be more even with a projector but there is so much light that night riding is much easier. The biggest problem was finding a good place to mount all the hardware!

HID conversion kit
Xtreme Motorcycle HID Conversion Kits (http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-Motorcycle-HID-Conversion-Kits-p/mc-hid.htm)

The Side Marker Lights looked wrong so I found some LED bulbs with the same colour temperature (4300 deg K)

4 x T10 Very Bright 4300K White LED Light Bulbs T-10 Wedge LEDs for exterior or interior lamps (http://www.aftermarketautoshop.com/cars-crossovers/4-x-t10-very-bright-4300k-white-led-light-bulbs-t-10-wedge-leds-for-exterior-or-interior-lamps/)


so im considering doing this, with or without a streetfighter conversion so im trying to figure out what to do/ what can be done with the H4 harness...my question for you is on the website did you order the H4-HL??? that would be the Bi-xenon bulb i believe...how does the hi-lo beam work on that kit? well?:)

Jme250RA
02-19-2013, 10:03 PM
the ring was almost perfect. the inner diameter was slightly smaller so I had to take the grinder to it and ream it out 1/32". it lines up beautifully and is snug.

unfortunately, I thought the projector assembly was snug, but after checking a little more thoroughly, I found that the silicone gasket was masking the fact that there was still play if you moved each piece independently. I found that the issue was the alignment slot on the projector assembly is tapered and as such the ring fit at first but would then bind on the assembly as everything was tightened. I got the ring to fit, but with grinding out the inner part of the ring and tapering the alignment tab, it took about half an hour. At this point it would be easier to grind off the alignment tab on the supplied ring and adjust the projector by hand. If I can come up with an easier way to re-machine my existing rings i'll offer them up if they're still wanted.

Jme250RA
02-20-2013, 12:34 AM
I though I would take a few pictures of where I mounted the relays and ballast on my bike. When looking for a spot with enough room for the relays I found if I lifted the tank there was plenty of room hidden there.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s472/jme250ra/IMG_0396_zps8bfbf8c9.jpg

The best way to mount the relays is to route the wiring forward through the frame so the connections can be made to the headlight and hi/lo actuator.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s472/jme250ra/IMG_0397_zps73cd71be.jpg

I then routed the power wires back down the inside of the frame on the right side of the bike to the battery compartment. After the relays were in place and the fuel tank was back in place, I needed to find a place for the ballast. Because the wiring on the ballast is only so long I couldn't place it in the same spot as the relays. The best spot I could find was to strap it to the frame beside the head tube.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s472/jme250ra/IMG_0404_zps8e9012af.jpg

I zap strapped the ballast to the frame over the rubber dirt shield so as to protect the frame from being scratched. The wiring was just long enough to get from the headlight to the ballast and everything looks clean.

Spudandretti
03-13-2013, 06:27 PM
Going to start mine Saturday. Have a few questions if someone could help me out. Do the grounds on the ballast go to the battery or just frame? And was wondering about adjusting the beam, kind of stumped there, are we talking about twisting the lens body to get somewhat of an angle to the light beam or we want it as level (horizontal) as possible, then adjust it with the two screws on the back of the headlight assembly to get the cutoff right? Seems to my reading from first post we want it level, if I am reading it correctly about cutting off the tab. Want to do this the correct way. Thanks, Bud

Jme250RA
03-13-2013, 06:45 PM
the grounds can just be grounded to the frame. the inner tab on the headlight washer needs to be ground off. the way I ended up getting the projector close to level was to sight it and tighten it while the headlight body was apart. with the projector body being square, it is relatively easy to measure from the corners, or screw holes, to the headlight body to get it very close. after that you reinstall everything and adjust for cutoff with the adjusters. it all sounds complicated but is really quite easy.

Spudandretti
03-13-2013, 07:14 PM
Thanks for the help, sounds like a breeze now, was just kind of concerned there for a few. Other thing that I am concerned about is the GTi-R shroud is just a friction fit, afraid it might fall off at some point, wondering if I can use a little silicone on the plastic ring that holds the lens before I slide it on to keep it in one place, which would keep the lens housing from twisting since I have to cut off the top portion of the shroud flat to make it fit into the old lens reflector, or maybe a little silicone on top and bottom of shroud then seal that to the old lens reflector.

magnus718
03-13-2013, 07:18 PM
yes i would recommend some type of adhesive, i used jb weld, for the shroud to the projector..jsut glue everything down...i had to open the headlight back up twice to jb weld the shroud to ring to projector..just do it now so it wont fall later

Jme250RA
03-13-2013, 07:22 PM
just a warning. I heard that crazy glue will leave a film on the inside of the headlight lens if used. silicone should be fine though.

Spudandretti
03-13-2013, 07:40 PM
Thanks all. I think the film comes from the curing process of the super glue, never did like it anyhow, it has its purposes but not for this. OK one more of my things I have found, right above the retaining ring was a beveled silicone washer before the nut, same as the one that's inside for the bulb (with those two metal rings) which will be another question, how to do the bulb. Do I use that washer after the retaining ring before I put the nut on (I would assume they put it on there for a reason but ya never know), seems like it would be hard to tighten that nut enough. I can usually figure these things out, but these little things are giving this old fart a stump. ===got on there site and looked at the pdf's, got it now=== thanks for all the help on everything, next step install. Used heat gun to remove front lens cover, worked out perfect.Thanks, again. Bud

Spudandretti
03-15-2013, 06:52 AM
Got the housing installed last night. I ground the slots in the rear oem housing wider so the retaining ring notch sat level then hot glued it into position. That way I could keep the notch so the hid housing don't rotate, worked good, didn't move at all while I tighten the nut. Even with them wider there's no reason I could not use it for a normal bulb again but I doubt that will ever happen.

grynchmeister
03-25-2013, 04:45 PM
I plan on ordering one of these kits soon. Did anyone who put one on decide against adding an angel eye for a specific reason, aside from cost?
Also, did any of you measure the depth of the housing? Would only the GTi-r shroud fit?

Jme250RA
03-25-2013, 06:08 PM
the only problem with the angel eye, that I can see, is that with the daytime running lights (low beam) being on all the time I doubt the effect will be that noticeable. The shroud sits behind the domed glass of the projector so there is plenty of room for different shrouds. Every shroud will need to be trimmed to fit though because of the shape of the headlight.

grynchmeister
03-25-2013, 09:35 PM
the only problem with the angel eye, that I can see, is that with the daytime running lights (low beam) being on all the time I doubt the effect will be that noticeable. The shroud sits behind the domed glass of the projector so there is plenty of room for different shrouds. Every shroud will need to be trimmed to fit though because of the shape of the headlight.

I figured with the drl the angel eye would be a bit of a waste. Plus its just one more thing that could go wrong.
I have some extra time to decide on which shroud, just opened the shipping container with my spare headlight I got from partzilla, effing bracket is broken off. :( rma submitted... I like the orbit shroud though.

Lilbrownbear7790
03-26-2013, 01:28 PM
and the price tagg on this?

shem1410
05-28-2013, 08:08 AM
Can anyone please tell me where these wires go ????.. 5698

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shem1410
05-28-2013, 08:12 AM
And what should I do with this plastic ring... I think it goes here... but it wont fit ...

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Jme250RA
05-28-2013, 09:18 AM
The black/red wires with the fitting on the end should be to test the high/low switch. Just put it aside.
The triple pronged end plugs into the existing connector for the original bulb.
There should be two small black/red wires with blades on them coming off the HID unit that are for the high/low solenoid. They need to be fed through the back of the headlight housing before the loose rubber grommet and fitting are attached to them. The blue/black end is then attached to those wires.
The remaining red/black fitting plugs into the relay pack.
The last picture shows the vanity shroud that goes over the projector. It is a generic piece so needs to be trimmed so that it can fit into the Headlight housing. You will need to secure the HID unit into the housing and then trim and test fit the shroud until it fits. I used a sharp utility knife to trim it up and it took about half an hour to get it to fit nicely.

shem1410
05-28-2013, 09:33 AM
thank you... now i can get started on this diy...

shem1410
05-28-2013, 10:04 AM
i am not being able to disconnect the wires that connect to the small box that is above the headlight ... im guessing its the tip over switch
can anyone tell me how to do this please

Jme250RA
05-28-2013, 10:06 AM
Just undo the two bolts that hold it onto the housing.

shem1410
05-28-2013, 10:37 PM
Finally done

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Jme250RA
05-28-2013, 10:48 PM
welcome to the world of light.

shem1410
05-29-2013, 12:44 PM
bad news for me .... have to open up everything since the projector is stuck in high beam....:(

Jme250RA
05-29-2013, 02:33 PM
When you put the switch wires, for the hi/lo solenoid, into the connector did you get the wires reversed? I'm not sure if it reverses the hi/lo switch or just stops it from switching. Undo the connector and plug in the extra connector with the black and red wires on it. Strip the ends of the wires and plug them into the relay connector in the opposite polarity and check to see if the hi/lo switch works before tearing it apart.

shem1410
05-29-2013, 02:59 PM
I checked it... it seems to get stuck wen it heats up... and if I tap the housing it releases back to low beam

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Jme250RA
05-29-2013, 03:56 PM
I wonder if the solenoid or hinge is just a bit tight. Try letting it cool down, then turn it on and cycle through hi/lo a bunch of times ( I don't know 100 times maybe). Let it cool down and then do it again. It may be that it just needs to be worked in a bit.

shem1410
05-31-2013, 06:05 AM
I opened it up ... changed the spring ... its working fine now... trying to figur out how to secure the shroud... the pressure ring isnt tight and if I shake the housing the shroud slips off

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Jme250RA
05-31-2013, 09:25 AM
It should snap into place. try putting a little more pressure on it. If not I would try using a bit of electrical tape to make a friction fit.

kartl
06-06-2013, 08:54 PM
The out put was good and looks pretty nice, just a question how is the seal holding after reinstalling the lens.

Jme250RA
06-07-2013, 11:04 PM
The seal is just fine. I've found no problems with mine. There was plenty of sealant on the lens and when heated I think it redistributes a bit.

Twizm
09-13-2013, 08:41 PM
how did you get the headlight out, i got every screw out and the headlamp WOULD not budge. I mean every screw that was behind it, I removed it. Is there a manual to remove the whole assembly? I cant find anything anywhere online

Jme250RA
09-16-2013, 09:56 AM
The headlight, shrouds around it and windscreen all come off as one unit and then you can remove the headlight from there.

LeJalapeno
10-06-2013, 10:17 PM
Well, I've been working on this install the past two nights. Tonight I got the thing in, grounded right... but now I've run into a problem.

My Highbeam and Lowbeam are switched.. any ideas on a fix? Its not critical, I can always just remember they are reversed.

After that, all I have to do is mount the ballast up good 'n tight and I'm ready to get back on the bike!

Jme250RA
10-07-2013, 12:18 AM
did you just plug the wires from the solenoid into the harness plug reversed?

LeJalapeno
10-07-2013, 06:28 AM
I went black to black from the high/low on the headlight to the one on the wire harness. I guess I can try switching those around when I work on it again.

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LeJalapeno
10-08-2013, 10:18 PM
Tried flipping the hi/lo wires and it didn't work :what:
Whatever

The HIDs are the morimotos and then I have 5000k LEDs in the position lights (couldn't find 4300k in the style I wanted)

I'm happy, its pointed pretty low right now, I'll have to fix it tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone in this thread for making this happen.
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Jme250RA
10-08-2013, 11:36 PM
looks good! I'll try and have a look at my setup tomorrow to see if i can find out why your wiring is backwards.

BCSaltchucker
10-26-2013, 12:29 AM
wow some of these installs look amazing. Really didn't want to butcher my brand new bike, but very interesting thread.

I almost cried when I saw how bad the beam was from my new SeaBeaArr. The oem projectors on my E class are simply amazing and I am used to that kind of perfection. I tellya bikes need these things stock!

Dallenn
02-09-2014, 11:17 PM
Saving this for later cause I'm trying this soon

But question, the retrofit kit is now stage 1 not stage 3. Is it still the same thing?

Bi-xenon: Sportbike Stage I Kit - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/motorcycle-stage-3-kit-single-headlight.html#.UvhJuHi9LCQ)

sjdc1982
02-09-2014, 11:41 PM
Tried flipping the hi/lo wires and it didn't work :what:
Whatever

The HIDs are the morimotos and then I have 5000k LEDs in the position lights (couldn't find 4300k in the style I wanted)

I'm happy, its pointed pretty low right now, I'll have to fix it tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone in this thread for making this happen.
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Whoa you need to really fix that man; you got blinding light going everywhere. And either need to paint the inside of that reflector housing a flat color. Or you can do the plastic cover mod, but the would mean you need a plastic vacuum mold machine.


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LeJalapeno
02-10-2014, 12:09 PM
Whoa you need to really fix that man; you got blinding light going everywhere. And either need to paint the inside of that reflector housing a flat color. Or you can do the plastic cover mod, but the would mean you need a plastic vacuum mold machine.


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The cutoff is still clean, I just ride with my "high beams" on. Whenever I need to see more I switch to "low beams" for the real high beam.

I still have the low beam aimed kinda low, even under hard acceleration my beam pattern stay below everyone's mirrors and rear windows.

sjdc1982
02-10-2014, 07:42 PM
The cutoff is still clean, I just ride with my "high beams" on. Whenever I need to see more I switch to "low beams" for the real high beam.

I still have the low beam aimed kinda low, even under hard acceleration my beam pattern stay below everyone's mirrors and rear windows.

My apologizes, guess I misunderstood, cause I thought you were riding down the street with high beams all the time weather you were behind a car or not. Lol

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LeJalapeno
02-11-2014, 12:24 PM
My apologizes, guess I misunderstood, cause I thought you were riding down the street with high beams all the time weather you were behind a car or not. Lol

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Hah! No, I wouldn't willingly do that to people. Its like it came straight out of Genesis every time I turn those high beams on.
"Let there be light!"

Kerbazee
03-20-2014, 12:09 AM
Found these projector lights (http://www.mxsmotosport.com/category.php?ids=144) from India have no idea of the quality, they have some clips up on the "tube" but most of them have been removed now it seems.

theironhorse
03-20-2014, 03:44 PM
Found these projector lights (http://www.mxsmotosport.com/category.php?ids=144) from India have no idea of the quality, they have some clips up on the "tube" but most of them have been removed now it seems.

this is the dealer in New Delhi, India and does fairly decent mod jobs on motorcycles for HID's and projectors. the whole kit (plug and play) includes the whole assembely + HID+ projector will cost you roughly 120$-130 $ not sure of shipping costs..

Han Solo 1
03-20-2014, 05:17 PM
this is the dealer in New Delhi, India and does fairly decent mod jobs on motorcycles for HID's and projectors. the whole kit (plug and play) includes the whole assembely + HID+ projector will cost you roughly 120$-130 $ not sure of shipping costs..

Wow, those look awesome. Would they basically be plug & play, or would you still need to cut, drill, etc?

BenjiFACE
06-06-2014, 09:28 AM
Somebody, what did you order and where can i get it?

kadookoo
06-06-2014, 09:45 AM
It seems the stage 3 is now the stage 1

kadookoo
06-09-2014, 02:58 AM
Curious with how simple this process looks and how cheap it is to do there isnt more bikes with retrofits. I think it really completes the bike IMO!

Did people resolve getting stuck in hi beams issue?

theironhorse
06-09-2014, 10:29 AM
Wow, those look awesome. Would they basically be plug & play, or would you still need to cut, drill, etc?


these are plug and play. comes with full assembly. you need to pull the stock headlight assembly and just plug this one in... no mods.. no drill no holes..

just plug the connecter to the ballast and put the headlight back...

Hellonwheels
09-22-2014, 11:58 PM
If you're keeping it under the seat make sure it's inside the bag thing. My 8mm Gear Wrench fell out going down the road... I found it but I was just lucky.

A: Do you think this New 2 8" D2S Bi Xenon HID Projector Len Lens Car Hi Lo Headlights Shroud Gift | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-8-D2S-Bi-Xenon-HID-Projector-Len-Lens-Car-Hi-Lo-Headlights-Shroud-Gift-/151211299591?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2334e55307&vxp=mtr) will fit? (make sure you can spec LHD or RHD!!!)

I'm not sure how large the morimoto is. I know that this needs a d2s bulb and ballast to be complete but it's really a lot of bang for the buck for a projector with high and low beams.

B: Is there anything special about the gear wrench? will a ratcheting 1/4 socket driver and 8mm socket fit?