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Longer Gear Selection Pedal!

7K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  CBR Blaize 
#1 ·
Hello everyone!

I'm having a bit of a problem - I can't get my $#@-$@#$ boot under the $#@-^%#^ gear selector! That dang thing is just too short and my boot is too big.

I'm not willing to give up my boots so I need to make a change to that pedal!

Three ways I could go about this:
1- does anyone make an adjustable (or just LONGER) gear selector pedal absent replacing the rearsets entirely?

2- I could cut & weld an extension on it.

3- I could use a completely different pedal and put it directly onto the selector knob at the front and point it backwards towards the footrest. My head-math tells me this would get me a GP-style shift pattern- bonus?

I believe this pedal has adequate clearance to make it work, but I'll take a measuring tape to the bike tomorrow to make sure: ???(KITACO) ?????????? ??? KLX110(05) ???? 516-4024820 - ??????? - ?? - Amazon|????
 
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#3 ·
I've played with the pedal for hours trying to find a position where I can get my foot under it- the only way it's happening is if the pedal is at the top of its swing, and in that case it's hard to get my foot on top of it to downshift without lifting off the peg entirely.

Another inch to that stupid pedal would get me plenty of room and put it squarely across the shift pad on my boot while it's in a comfortable position for upshifting, with my heel caught against the peg. I generally ride with my feet farther back, nearly on the balls of my feet against the pegs.
 
#4 ·
You should be riding with your the balls of your feet on the pegs unless you are shifting or braking. If you can't get the right height with just the normal rod adjustment I really suggest what CBR-250-R did. Just move the bracket that connects the linkage to engine back toward the peg more and it will give you more height. It will reduce the leverage you have on the shift post so you don't want to move it to far. If worse comes worse you could also get adjustable rearsets.
 
#5 ·
So.. you described my exact riding position to me and told me I should do what I explained doesn't work and then told me to buy something that I said I didn't want to buy in my first post? >:)
While custom rearsets ARE a potential option, I'm not looking to shell out the money for them unless I can see them first.

It's not a 'height' thing. It's a 'my boot is too big to fit between the peg and the shifter pedal'. If I angled the peg up ridiculously high I would still barely be able to get my foot under it, and then I would literally have to lift off the footpeg entirely to downshift.

I'll get a buddy to help me take some pictures tomorrow so y'all can see what I mean.
 
#7 ·
LOL!

Gee, thanks, now I have to clean coca-cola out of my keyboard!

No, my boots are Icon 1000 Prep, size 13!



I have the Yoshi rearset extenders installed. But, I also can't get my Navy-issue steel-toe combat boots under the pedal. These are the only two pairs I ride in so I'm not sure if anything else would be different. I have absolutely no problems on my 1988 VTZ250 with custom rearsets.

Anyone have thoughts on getting rid of the linkage and putting a shift pedal straight onto the transmission? Am I correct in my thoughts that this would switch it to a GP shift?
 
#10 ·
It sounds to me that lengthening might be your best shot.
I don't see where reversing the shifting pattern would make any difference on clearance. I think it would be much more difficult to jump into a right hand drive car and try and shift left handed. Unless you are a southpaw, in which case, it would probably feel like a gift from Heaven.

I would only lose the rubber on the footpeg as a last resort.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Reversing the shifting is more a side effect of my proposed solution-

1. Take a standard non-linkage shift pedal
2. Put that pedal where the linkage arm on the transmission connects
3. Point it backwards (instead of forward, as it normally is on bikes with this setup.)

This means that instead of ~4" from the peg, the pedal would be ~6". I could then angle it to taste.

As for learning to ride again... Not too concerned! I learned how to drive on the wrong side of the road from the wrong side of the car here in Japan!
 
#12 ·
first thoughts were as cbrblaise, on foot position, balls of feet,
close in, sliding front of foot down and forward under shift tab,,
and suggesting the yoshi rearset plates [now know you have them]
ie, moving peg back, rather than shift tab forward..

[australian] navy boots are imo not the best option for gear shifting,
compared to [say] rs taichi motorcycle riding 'shoes' [short boots]
which i recommend.. or suchlike purpose made riding boots..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3obUh-atG2s

so long as your foot stays in contact with or close to the peg
when shifting, it doesnt matter so much whether its the
toe tip or closer back behind the toes, for effective shifting..

im only a us size 10 boot, but still it should be possible..

notice one of those aftermarket levers had an adjustable slot
for moving the shift tab fore and aft,, which could be
a solution for you.. ie, welding [even bolting]
a longer flat bar to the stock, drilling a line of holes
towards its end then filing them together to house
an adjustable shift tab..

depends how tidy you want it of course
compared to a ready made swap..

still, it is most important imo to feel comfortable
in all aspects of riding.. with everything easily
accessible and comfortable to use efficiently..
[one reason for use of yoshi plates]
 
#13 ·
first thoughts were as cbrblaise, on foot position, balls of feet,
close in, sliding front of foot down and forward under shift tab,,
and suggesting the yoshi rearset plates [now know you have them]
ie, moving peg back, rather than shift tab forward..

Unfortunately, with the Yoshi plates they move that entire peg system backwards. This means the distance between the pedal and the peg is still the same. (But does require a longer shifter linkage rod to the transmission.

At an angle I can get to comfortably, I can't get my boots under the pedal. Unfortunately I forgot to get a picture Friday! Derp. I think a picture will go a long way to helping people see what my stupid problem is. Right now I'm using the welt on the side of the boot for upshifts, which isn't ideal.

Thank you for the suggestions!
 
#14 · (Edited)
whoops, wrong link that braking video clip..

one point of the yoshi plates being the angles
created thru ankles/knees thus hip joints etc,
ie, allowing knees to move a bit further forward,
while pelvis allowed to extend rearward that
little bit, for an easier slide of foot down
and forward under the lever [for upshifting]..

it really is surprising how different it can be
even between similar gloves on lever feel
and access etc.. same same for good boots..
ie, whatever solution you use, there will still be
that reality of 'trying to dance with gumboots on'..

heres that intended link to one example of todays
excellent purpose made riding shoes/boots;

http://japan.webike.net/bm/brd/Boots/RS+Taichi/3087/635/
 
#15 ·
My Icon boots are specifically made riding boots. :)

I'm really quite happy with them, and I wear them anytime I'm going out riding- it's just doing the mile or so back and forth to work that I wear the Navy boots.

Snowing today so still no photos. Sheesh!

I agree that the Yoshi plates change the angle overall... but it doesn't let me get my foot under there. I've ordered up the front-mounting pedal, so we'll give GP/race shift a try and see how it feels. I'm sure I'll stall the bike out a few times getting used to it.
 
#21 ·
Photos please!
 
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