2012 CBR250 for a female rider. - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #1 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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2012 CBR250 for a female rider.

Morning all,

My wife and I picked up a 2012 CBR last night for my wifes first bike. It has 1000 Miles on it, and was owned by two women previously. The most recent owner has it stored for awhile in a shed. Has a small ding on the fuel tank, and a dying battery, but overall we're happy and got it for $1900.

My biggest concern is the chain/sprocket. They didn't lube it before storage it seems. So it built up a bit of rust. Should I just outright replace the chain and sprocket? Please see pics below. If so, can anyone link me to an OEM-like replacement?



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post #2 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 12:04 PM
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I would lube it first with ATF (automatic transmission fluid, which I use all the time on my bikes) and follow that with gear oil, to see if you can't use the existing chain and sprockets.

Your wife will not want you to use either of these once you have determined if you can use the bike as is; shift to a lube that isn't messy at least for her bike.

I like ATF because it does not hold grit like most oils, and, it has additives that should help the o-rings. But it is messy! Equivalent to 7.5 wt oil in its viscosity. I still use it for fork oil (this dates me, pretty much).

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post #3 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 03:14 PM
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I would use kerosine (not gasoline!!!!!) and a nylon brush (not wire brush!!!!!) to attempt to remove the rust. Likely, with such low miles, it is just surface rust and hasn't penetrated the rollers. Look it over after cleaning it and make sure there are no binding or sticking links, and it should be ok. I also assume that with only 1000 miles on it the sprockets are perfectly fine, unless during that period for some reason the chain was waaaaay overtightened (many new riders will do this thinking any chain slack and it might fly off), and the teeth are hooked because of it.

After cleaning the chain, while oils will lubricate the chain very well, they also attract grit and dirt and fling off more than drying lubricants. I personally like the Original Bike Spirits chain lube, because it has tons of moly and dries to a waxy coat, which repels water and doesn't get sticky. Any lube that doesn't get sticky should be fine. Gear oil/tranny oil can be used in a pinch if needed, but will require a good cleaning with kerosine before reapplication later, particularly if you're in a dusty environment.

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post #4 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 04:06 PM
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Make also sure that the bike has had it's 600 miles service done. With two previous riders and just 1.000 miles it's possible that both thought it unnecessary and you still have the original oil in there.
Besides I think some of the bikes had valve clearance problems that had to be remedied at that service.

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post #5 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05eclipse05 View Post
Morning all,

My wife and I picked up a 2012 CBR last night for my wifes first bike. It has 1000 Miles on it, and was owned by two women previously. The most recent owner has it stored for awhile in a shed. Has a small ding on the fuel tank, and a dying battery, but overall we're happy and got it for $1900.

My biggest concern is the chain/sprocket. They didn't lube it before storage it seems. So it built up a bit of rust. Should I just outright replace the chain and sprocket? Please see pics below. If so, can anyone link me to an OEM-like replacement?
Welcome to the site!

If it were me, I would probably replace that drive chain. While it's hard to see the rollers in your pic, I'm guessing they are just as rusty as the side plates. And so running a chain with rust pitted rollers would more than likely accelerate wear on the sprocket teeth.

Here's a good quality RK 520 O-ring drive chain on Amazon (I've been running the same RK chain on my Honda XR400R with no issues) and is the correct length for the CBR250R: https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Cha...20+drive+chain
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post #6 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Besides I think some of the bikes had valve clearance problems that had to be remedied at that service.
Pretty sure that clearance problem was restricted to the first year (2011) models and was actually corrected towards the end of the model year.
I have one of the first 2011s made according to my VIN and while I was very concerned about the problem when I first heard about it, my 600-mile service found nothing and my valves were well within tolerance and did not require any adjustment.
Actually, quite a few owners of 2011s have posted here that their valves did not require any adjustment at 600 miles.
Which kind of leads me to believe that the 600-mile check may have had more to do with Honda discovering a possible problem in the first ones off the production line and they required the valve check out of an abundance of caution, rather than expecting that most bikes would need a valve adjustment.
Of course there's no accounting for how badly a new owner may treat their new bike or follow a questionable break-in methods, but I think generally from what I've read it's more likely that most owners won't need adjustment than will.
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post #7 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 09:41 PM
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As Schroeder mentioned the possibility of the engine oil being original, or even if it was changed at the 600 mile service it's likely the oil is at least couple years old now (which wouldn't surprise me on a 5 year old bike with 1000 miles), I'd also recommend doing an oil & filter change right away.
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post #8 of 26 Old 04-12-2017, 10:57 PM
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all good advice..
you could also use new parts
while cleaning and soaking etc
the original, if otherwise ok,
for an emergency/spare..
[if you/she think that way]

you just dont know what its had
or not had done to it.. best bet
ditch/replace oil as recommended,
or any fluids etc, you may suspect..

clean sheet, as they say..
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post #9 of 26 Old 04-13-2017, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsonder View Post
I would lube it first with ATF (automatic transmission fluid, which I use all the time on my bikes) and follow that with gear oil, to see if you can't use the existing chain and sprockets.

Your wife will not want you to use either of these once you have determined if you can use the bike as is; shift to a lube that isn't messy at least for her bike.

I like ATF because it does not hold grit like most oils, and, it has additives that should help the o-rings. But it is messy! Equivalent to 7.5 wt oil in its viscosity. I still use it for fork oil (this dates me, pretty much).
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrlocal View Post
I would use kerosine (not gasoline!!!!!) and a nylon brush (not wire brush!!!!!) to attempt to remove the rust. Likely, with such low miles, it is just surface rust and hasn't penetrated the rollers. Look it over after cleaning it and make sure there are no binding or sticking links, and it should be ok. I also assume that with only 1000 miles on it the sprockets are perfectly fine, unless during that period for some reason the chain was waaaaay overtightened (many new riders will do this thinking any chain slack and it might fly off), and the teeth are hooked because of it.

After cleaning the chain, while oils will lubricate the chain very well, they also attract grit and dirt and fling off more than drying lubricants. I personally like the Original Bike Spirits chain lube, because it has tons of moly and dries to a waxy coat, which repels water and doesn't get sticky. Any lube that doesn't get sticky should be fine. Gear oil/tranny oil can be used in a pinch if needed, but will require a good cleaning with kerosine before reapplication later, particularly if you're in a dusty environment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoMike View Post
Welcome to the site!

If it were me, I would probably replace that drive chain. While it's hard to see the rollers in your pic, I'm guessing they are just as rusty as the side plates. And so running a chain with rust pitted rollers would more than likely accelerate wear on the sprocket teeth.

Here's a good quality RK 520 O-ring drive chain on Amazon (I've been running the same RK chain on my Honda XR400R with no issues) and is the correct length for the CBR250R: https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Cha...20+drive+chain
Quote:
Originally Posted by shisoshin View Post
all good advice..
you could also use new parts
while cleaning and soaking etc
the original, if otherwise ok,
for an emergency/spare..
[if you/she think that way]

you just dont know what its had
or not had done to it.. best bet
ditch/replace oil as recommended,
or any fluids etc, you may suspect..

clean sheet, as they say..
First off, thanks for all the replies. I do appreciate it. I took a couple better pictures of the chain in better lighting.

Since my wife is going to be on the bike, I think i'll just outright replace the chain. I mean, it's $40 lol. Thanks for the link! I'll leave the sprocket alone. I'm sure it's fine.







Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoMike View Post
As Schroeder mentioned the possibility of the engine oil being original, or even if it was changed at the 600 mile service it's likely the oil is at least couple years old now (which wouldn't surprise me on a 5 year old bike with 1000 miles), I'd also recommend doing an oil & filter change right away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Make also sure that the bike has had it's 600 miles service done. With two previous riders and just 1.000 miles it's possible that both thought it unnecessary and you still have the original oil in there.
Besides I think some of the bikes had valve clearance problems that had to be remedied at that service.
The fluids were changed a couple times at least. Regardless, I'm going to change the coolant and oil both and make sure they're new. Standard stuff.
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post #10 of 26 Old 04-13-2017, 09:12 AM
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Replace that chain. That's a lot of rust!

Tis better to be thought a fool and remain silent, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt.
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