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Old 11-23-2012, 09:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lymem View Post
Thanks for the tip on the posi-taps, I'll look for some this weekend. I was going to cut the wire, soder in a connector and use heat shrink tubing to make it nice.
Do that anyway, and use adhesive lined heat shrink. Alternately, find the connector for the bulb and stack something inline if it's a blade connector.

I really don't like vampire clips of any kind for outdoor projects.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by lymem View Post
I would expect so, however in doing some web checking Honda was using the green+yellow wire for the running light power and the red(brownish) wire for the break light, and of course green for ground.

Thanks for the tip on the posi-taps, I'll look for some this weekend. I was going to cut the wire, soder in a connector and use heat shrink tubing to make it nice.
Interesting. The red one was the one giving me continuous powrer when checked with a test light.

If I can steal a little bit of time for myself tomorrow I'll take some pics of what I did.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by nLinked View Post
I was worried the small battery on this bike may cause the heated grips (on full power) to drain the battery if the RPM's are not kept above 5000 (as I believe this is when the battery can provide charge)?

What if I'm in very slow heavy traffic and can't filter much, and my RPMs are under 5000 with these Oxford heated grips on max? Will it not drain the battery?
According to Oxford, they shut off if they sense the battery drop down to (if I remember correctly) 11 volts. So theoreticaly they should turn off before your battery drains past the point of no return.

Edit: This is assuming that Oxford is not BSing us.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:11 PM   #24
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I know my A'ME grips shut off if they sense the battery drop below 96% or somewhere around there. I would think that would be the case with all new heated grip setups. I currently have mine set on continuous power because my grips will keep the bars warm while my bike is off for short periods like refuelling or picture stops. when mine are set on continuous power they will also restart when the battery charge goes above the 96%. this is a really cool setup but the only thing that you have to keep in mind is that if you put your battery on a battery tender, without physically turning off the grips, the charger will end up keeping your grips warm and won't be able to charge the battery.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #25
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Got sick as a dog so couldn't take pics until today. Just a couple quick shots.
Sealed fuse box from Eastern Beaver company. Its usually tucked in but I pulled it out to get a better view of it and one of the three connectors. Can't see the relay that its attached to. Its in too deep.



This is the posi-tap that connects running light to relay.

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Old 12-01-2012, 08:37 PM   #26
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Thanks metalstorm that picture helps a ton.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:23 AM   #27
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An installation I did a while ago. Never took pictures, but now I have some.

Used generic grip heaters. Used a novel switch position that I like.





See the heater lead coming out from the bottom of the gas tank fairing thingy.



Wire routing from each grip:



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Old 03-31-2013, 01:55 PM   #28
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That is a very clever switch position!
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:14 PM   #29
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Default My heated grips install

First of all, full disclosure here...I make the power distribution and control system used in this install....but not the GPS or heated grips!

Now that's out of the way, I'd like to show you how I installed heated grips, 2 heated clothing circuits, USB power (for the iPhone/GPS), an ambient temp gauge, and a voltage monitor on the CBR.

First, as others have found, removing the bar end weights is a problem. After scratching them up I found that the easiest way to remove them was to use one of those impacting drill drivers. Just amazing. No fuss, no muss, no damage...the screws just came right out.

As for the heating elements, I much prefer this approach over using grips with elements built in as I've found the built in ones to be kinda lousy grips. I've used various brands of heating elements on various bikes and have a preference for the Dual Star product...which is apparently not made any longer. So, I bought some generic ones from Amazon for $40...but you can get them for as little as $20 if you look around. You won't need the switch, wiring, or resistor that comes with these kits, just the elements themselves.

Installing the elements is pretty easy...just use a long screwdriver and some sort of liquid under the grips and they'll come off. I've found the best way to reinstall the grips is to wet the insides with rubbing alcohol and work them on. The alcohol evaporates quickly without leaving a residue, so this seems to be a good solution. One more thing, I wrap the clutch side bar with some electrical tape to help prevent the heat from being absorbed by the aluminum bar.

Routing the wires is super-easy as you can use existing wire retainers on the bike and connect up to the power source on the left side under a fairing panel.

As for how I control the grips, I used the Dispatch 1 wireless controller. The distribution module fits really well under the passenger seat (see photo) if you remove the ribs for the U lock. The existing rubber band does a great job of holding the distribution module in place while allowing perfect access to both the 12v power outputs and USB outputs.

To trigger the system I tapped into the brake light using one of those standard tap thingies. I ran the ambient temp probe out under the left side, away from the exhaust system (very important to ensure accurate temp readings). I decided to have 2 variable output sockets for my heated liner and heated gloves, plus a USB power output for charging the phone. Additionally, I ran another variable output cable up to the junction of the heated grip wires on the left side and connected it all up.

As it stands I can now control the heated grips (32 levels of heat!), the heated clothing, and power the phone/GPS. I can also monitor ambient temperature and the motorcycle's voltage....and know what time it is!

While I usually just leave the controller on the bike, it takes just a few seconds to remove it if I don't need it using the RAM mount system. Since it links wirelessly to the distribution module, there are no wires to mess with. Super clean.

Please see attached photos.

Dan
Attached Images
File Type: jpg first photo.jpg (115.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg environmental screen.jpg (115.5 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg operation screen.jpg (127.2 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg heated clothing outputs.jpg (110.3 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Distribution module install.jpg (144.2 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg detail of tail light tap.jpg (101.9 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg detail of RAM mount.jpg (105.5 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg detail of heated grip wiring.jpg (105.3 KB, 27 views)
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #30
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Very cool dangrass! I hope to upgrade to one someday. Best of luck to your enterprise.
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