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Old 11-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #31
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Are there any downsides to using a non-O-Ring chain? Does it need more maintenance or more frequent change intervals?
A non o-Ring chain doesnt have the live span of an o-ring. They stretch faster and require cleaning and lubing more often but like Aufitt said, there is alot less rolling resistance in them
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:01 AM   #32
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No awesome brake pads or fork oil changes?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:53 PM   #33
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Subscribed! Great thread!
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:32 PM   #34
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AWSOME report and the pictures are top notch , THANK YOU for taking the time my bike is 338lbs with about 1/4 gal of fuel . (one bar flashing and all the DOT eq on the bike) it was 363lbs new and taken to be wt on my way home .
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:47 PM   #35
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Giving me some ideas......
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:29 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrShadow View Post
Are there any downsides to using a non-O-Ring chain? Does it need more maintenance or more frequent change intervals?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty21 View Post
A non o-Ring chain doesnt have the live span of an o-ring. They stretch faster and require cleaning and lubing more often but like Aufitt said, there is alot less rolling resistance in them
Like many things, it is a trade off.

An O-ring chain will usually last at least twice as long as a regular (non o-ring) chain, with minimal maintenance. However there is an increase in rolling resistance with an o-ring chain, which results in less power at the wheel, and a small increase in fuel consumption.

On the track getting power to the back wheel is important, so going for a regular (non o-ring) chain is a no-brainer. Maintenance is something you do quite a bit of anyway.

On the road, savings in fuel consumption assume the regular chain is a well maintained and lubricated. For most road riders the convenience of a low maintenance o-ring chain will far outweigh possible reduced fuel consumption and increased power to the rear wheel. Just ask anybody who was riding before o-ring chains came to the market.......

Great thread Aufit; very practical.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:11 PM   #37
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Thanks Aufitt going to tackle alot of weight loss on this bike. I am going to take you up on the non o-ring chain and the different sproc as well I will be making a naked version soon to see what difference that will make.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:58 AM   #38
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cbr250's suffer from a loose rose joint mount on the gearshifter from new.
Put some thought into how to (carefully) weld it to get rid of the slop without destroying the rose joint (its part of the gear shifter)

-removed the gearlever,
-put a 6mm bolt into the threaded female end of the rose joint,
-pumped the rose joint full of grease with a syringe under its rubber cover,
-fully sealed it with insulation tape (yellow in the pic)so that the grease is not affected by quenching.
-wrapped it with aluminium heatproof 3M tape (silver in the pic),
-Cut a slot in a 12mm washer and slipped it behind to protect the rose joint as well,
-ground the lower 1/3 to prep it for the weld,
-quenched in water immediately after the (quick) grind.


-set up the MIG and had the water container ready and gave a nice neat quick weld,
-quenched immediately
-filed it smooth,
-painted with Satin black.

No more Slop.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:20 AM   #39
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Grinding pegs and kneesliders is wearing a bit thin, and its a bit of a drag,
'scuse the puns.
6mm alloy plate, a Hacksaw and a file.

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Old 11-17-2012, 11:44 AM   #40
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Limitation on the RHS is the ghey 180 degree ABS line, but the rearsets are now up and back a long way and still on the safe side of stressing the hose.



Now the rear brake pedal can be adjusted down 35mm below the footpeg and out of the way.
rear brakes only slow you down.. 'scuse the pun.
and with only 23hp we want fast not slow.
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