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Old 11-27-2012, 11:17 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Jme250RA View Post
boy! you sure are good working with aluminum... or should i say aluminium!
nice work!! i'll be keen to hear your thoughts on the new offsets after you get out on a couple of rides.
Hacksaw and file mate, back in my day we did a real 4 yr apprenticeship,
not like kiddies today haha.

Higher pegs made more diff than everything,
no more waiting to get on the gas or compensating knee scrape for pegscrape, its allowed better lines.
1.5 secs faster but it was a dry day and perfect conditions.

Still scraped a little but those chicken strips on the front are getting smaller.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:01 PM   #52
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Have you removed the bar weights? They should be good for about 1/2 a kilo. I'm just not sure how much vibration you would get through the bars.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:49 PM   #53
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Have you removed the bar weights? They should be good for about 1/2 a kilo. I'm just not sure how much vibration you would get through the bars.
No I like the balance that bar weights give, steering is light enough.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:06 PM   #54
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I was at the Honda dealer ordering a 13 tooth front sprocket yesterday and had a look at a set of yoshimura offset brackets. You were almost spot on with your bracket thickness 6-7 mm. Yoshimura have beefed parts of the bracket up to 19 mm but, all in all, I don't think it's needed and it almost doubles the weight of the bracket. They have two offsets of 30 mm up/ 45 mm back and 45 mm up/ 45 mm back. $125 CDN for the set makes it reasonable for someone without the skill and time to make them but I could make them in 1/2 the time it would take me to pay for them.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:23 PM   #55
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Really nice thread Aufitt! How the heck do you get your foot underneath that gear lever though? It looks pretty low?

Dave
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:44 AM   #56
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Considered swapping out the passenger seat for something else? There seems to be a fair amount of heavy grade plastic in the seat that wouldnt serve a track purpose.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:25 PM   #57
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I took your lead Aufitt and started making my own offset plates. I decided to go with a 45mm up and 45mm back and made the plates out of 8mm aluminum. I also tapped the offset holes so I don't need nuts.

I started by copying the profile of the rear set.

then made the backside match the rearset also.

then i cut out a template and got dangerous with my router.

I have to put in a disclaimer that using a router on aluminum is possible but extremely dangerous if you do not have considerable experience.


I still have a bit of work do on the plates like rebate around the holes and radius the corners.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:43 AM   #58
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Well done Jme,

you used 8mm, which wont flex and gouge your swingarm like mine would in a crash.
tapping the threads is a nice touch,
The width does not matter, they actually angle inwards as they go back.
Yours must be non ABS enabling it to go higher.
The hoses can handle a alot of flex.
You may need to shorten your rear reservoir tube (I didnt)
Notice the further back, the further up you need to go.
You have done the notch for the frame on the top edge.

These cbr600 pegs fit and they still fold but allow you to 'point your toes in the direction of travel' easier than the horrible rubber pegs.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Shifter linkage extension is just a long 10mm bolt shank cut and tapped 6x1.0,
its about 47mm long but try and have as much thread in the rose joints as possible, make it longer then cut it down.
I painted it silver to look nice.
The other part is just a 45x6x1.0 bolt with the head cut off.

router is cheating!
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:00 AM   #59
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^Ran into this problem soon as I fitted the rearset brackets.


^So I did a nice job scalloping my exhaust hanger bracket for some foot movement.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #60
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Those front Chicken strips were given a severe workout after the first 15 mins with the extra lean angle.

I :heart: my Bridgestones.
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