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post #71 of 106 Old 12-05-2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lewiCBR250R View Post
awesome new bike Aufitt and good luck with the sale of the little cbr! you better not leave this forum though, you are part and parcel of the foundation of this forum and a top contributor. Good luck with racing the ninja, you will have a blast and i hope to hear some updates too!

Lewi
What Lewi said .

Dave

Eleven hours in a tin can?
God, there's got to be another way!
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post #72 of 106 Old 12-06-2012, 01:18 PM
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What Lewi said .

Dave
+ 1 more


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post #73 of 106 Old 12-06-2012, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aufitt View Post


cbr250's suffer from a loose rose joint mount on the gearshifter from new.
Put some thought into how to (carefully) weld it to get rid of the slop without destroying the rose joint (its part of the gear shifter)
I finally got a chance to look at the rose joint. wow! I definitely have to fix this slop. great solution!

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post #74 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Aufitt View Post


Ended up with only 2mm thread showing on the adjuster rod and the lever where I want it.
Threadlocked the extension into the rosejoint so it wont work loose.
Bent the gear lever inwards and kept the toe piece inline with the bike.
Lubed all moving parts.
Everything could be returned to stock at a later stage.
I just ordered a gear shift rod for a 2009 Suzuki SFV650 Gladius P/N 25525-44H00. It looks like it should be close to the length needed for this mod. I didn't have my tape measure on me but it looks like this linkage is about 8" long and has the same thread. If it is too long, it shouldn't be a problem cutting it down and cutting more threads on the right hand thread side. If it doesn't work i'm only out $14. I'll have more info when the part comes in.

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post #75 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Jme the the problem is that a couple mm diffence on the rod = 25mm on the gear shifter height.
My method is easier, you should see how precise my gearshifts are now, there is no play and no flex.

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post #76 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 11:21 AM
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Yeah! I noticed how much a couple threads changes the shifter height. I've done all the mock up the same way you did yours. I'm just a stickler for details. My mock up shift rod only engages 1/4" of the threads on each end because I made the rod length the same as yours but my offset is 15mm x 15mm more. Rather than rethread another bolt, I'll just adjust the length on this new rod and it'll look like it was made for it.

For anyone not understanding why we don't just thread up a new rod, these rods have a right hand thread on one hand and a left hand thread on the other. It's not worth the cost of buying a die for cutting a left hand thread or getting a machinist to build one.

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post #77 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 11:49 AM
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Rotating the lever on the shift shaft by one or two splines, will allow you to have full thread engagement on your new adjustment rod. I had to do this (rotated lever one spline) to lower my shift lever to where I wanted it, while still maintaining full thread engagement on the stock adjustment rod.
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post #78 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 03:10 PM
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I was looking at that option also. It looks like 2 notches would be about the maximum you could go before losing leverage on the shifter.

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post #79 of 106 Old 12-09-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I went one spline anti-clockwise as it makes upshifts better.

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post #80 of 106 Old 12-18-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aufitt View Post
^Top of the class!

(@BBRMotorsports knows what I did there too)

20 mins with a die grinder and a half round file to reap the rewards of better response at high rpm and still have all the benefits of a std header.

would you class this mod as modifying the exhaust port floor? which your not supposed to do.
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