[QUOTE=Texas250;105023]Maxim Honda in Allen Texas says the cause of this issue is a cracked insulator on the sparkplug wire. The tech said the insulator is about 5 inches long and must be bent in order to get it out of the head and it archs. So...??? for what that is worth. He said it had nothing to do with the injector cutting off under closed throttle conditions and then falling below idle and stalling. I told him about reprograming the R6's to cut on at 2000 rpms, but he said you cannot reprogram a CBR250R, and that isn't the issue. So...
I only say so because I go pick up my new 2012 ABS next week and I'm paranoid about getting one of the stalling ones. I called all the N. Texas Honda (5 of them)dealers and only the tech at Maxim said he had heard of this issue.[/QUOT
So he found this out or did Honda? Honda advised my mechanic about this two months ago and nothing changed when they checked and replaced mine.
__________________
It's not about how much power you have, it's about how much you can actually use.
I had the "stalling" problem at low speed, clutch in, for the first few hundred miles, usually when the engine was cold. Once I started downshifting through the gears while slowing (thanks to folks like Aufitt for that advice when I was still brand new to this) the problem solved itself. I suspect, after reading most of this thread, that there is probably several different problems that ultimately lead to stalling. In my case, I think it was a combo of user error and the ecu adjusting itself. I have two CBRs and neither of them have any problems with stalling now.
I have posted this for the benefit of new riders reading this thread who might think there is a widespread and long lasting problem when there are really very few people who have had the problem and most of them have had it solved by time and/or shifting technique.
_____________
Sweeping cobwebs from the edges of my mind
Had to get away to see what we could find
Hope the days that lie ahead
Bring us back to where they've led
Listen not to what's been said to you
Well i have 1800miles on mine now and it shuts off more now than ever , i currently have 5 other honda bikes in my garage and have owned a ton of them of the last 40years , i bought this bike to ride back and forth to work and a little play time. i have always been a honda fan and supporter , this bike is by far the biggest piece of s--- from any manufatuer that i have owned , it is a shame because i truly love riding the little bike , but i have pushed it to the back corner of my garage , covered it up until i decide to trade it in. i am still a huge honda fan , i just happened to be unlucky with this bike. i wish i could find an answer for this bike , but again unlucky that my area honda dealer barely has the knowledge to change oil , if you are brave enough to take it to them.
The Following User Says Thank You to PARTSASS For This Useful Post:
I had the "stalling" problem at low speed, clutch in, for the first few hundred miles, usually when the engine was cold. Once I started downshifting through the gears while slowing (thanks to folks like Aufitt for that advice when I was still brand new to this) the problem solved itself. I suspect, after reading most of this thread, that there is probably several different problems that ultimately lead to stalling. In my case, I think it was a combo of user error and the ecu adjusting itself. I have two CBRs and neither of them have any problems with stalling now.
I have posted this for the benefit of new riders reading this thread who might think there is a widespread and long lasting problem when there are really very few people who have had the problem and most of them have had it solved by time and/or shifting technique.
The CBR250R is your first bike, it's all the experience you have. The Honda CBR250R does have a real problem. Go to a bike night and ask the guys there if a fuel injected engine should stall, at any time, when the clutch is pulled in.
The Following User Says Thank You to putoff For This Useful Post:
I had the "stalling" problem at low speed, clutch in, for the first few hundred miles, usually when the engine was cold. Once I started downshifting through the gears while slowing (thanks to folks like Aufitt for that advice when I was still brand new to this) the problem solved itself. I suspect, after reading most of this thread, that there is probably several different problems that ultimately lead to stalling. In my case, I think it was a combo of user error and the ecu adjusting itself. I have two CBRs and neither of them have any problems with stalling now.
I have posted this for the benefit of new riders reading this thread who might think there is a widespread and long lasting problem when there are really very few people who have had the problem and most of them have had it solved by time and/or shifting technique.
well said! when this has happened to me (3 times) I noticed that something didn't feel right on my end, as the rider. When I downshift through the gears smoothly, without trying to do too much, the bike does not stall. When I start getting a little aggressive when I shift in the lower gears (engine braking and all) I have stalled. Before you take your bike to the shop, do a little experiment for a week or so and try shifting in only when you need too; don't get too fancy with engine braking. just use your instincts. Let me know what happens! Until I have stalling problems that I know aren't from over-shifting I won't worry about it.
__________________
"Learn from Everyone, Follow No One" -if
without, seeking to play down any cut out event,,
google 'motorcycle engine stalls' for 3 million hits,
first page includes most major brands..
same same for general search which gets
countless similar for car engines..
while of course, any engine 'should not' cut out,
there are many reasons why they, do..
it is not, r not, specific to cbr25or..
factors seem to be very cold temp startup..
[relates to catalizer warmup apparently]
input to ecu, including correct warmup
phase on startup [settling to 1500rpm]..
stale or otherwise poor or dirty fuel..
valve operation and settings..
other ecu factors such as mapping
for lean burn and economy etc..
my cut-outs [about 10, all hot]
virtually ceased after a period of
correct warmup settling to 1500rpm
every, time, after not doing, that specific
warmup [no owners manual, found out here]
but my old carb honda[s] warmup routine..
not long after buying my cbr250r i started using
the same petrol supplier every, time, to now..
on the bright side tho, every time it cut out
it also started instantly on touching starter button..
there was no effective lag outside my own brain
where the momentary surprise of it made it
seem a longer event..
despite many attempts at the time, have been unable
to replicate any of those cut out events, thus it cant
be some specific systemic failure or else it would be
replicable on repeated attempts..
it seems also that even those who have had cut outs
esp during the initial phases of running in typically
experience a fading away of this type of event,
including reports of valve adjustment
resulting in no more cut outs...
while reports of those who have experienced enduring
cut outs are alarming etc, the fact is that it is not,
specific to this particular motorcycle engine..
new owners should also be aware of that fact..
my advice, warm it up correctly every time..
use the same petrol supplier every time..
[been using 91 octane unleaded no additive
fuel since looking into this issue]
ride it like the single it is,, incl keeping it boiling
when you stop at lights etc, esp during the first
warming up period of riding, [until two warm bars]
by, instead of just letting it drop to low idle,
keep it at say 2000rpm with slight throttle pressure..
if it does cut out hot [riding after warmup] take it in to
your dealer asap.. make sure the valves are checked
and adjusted even if 'within spec' at service..
ie, be a rational responsible motorcyclist
and most of all, enjoy the pleasures of
motorcycling, regardless...
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to shisoshin For This Useful Post:
Bike stalled once with 10km on odometer very first (1/2 throttle) heat cycle bringing it home form dealer (and never since.)
Was ran in quite hard (but not merciless thrashing untill after first service)
Recommended standard 91RON octane (= 87PON in the USA)
Header bolts were tensioned from new.
Never touch throttle on startup.
Never touch throttle for first 20 secs while warmup.
Disconnected battery after break in and again after any changes.
Gets run very hard in warm climate.
Never stalls.
Any stalling riders got their zorst off for a pic?
I have a hunch (that Ive alluded to previously but it fell on deaf ears).
*Exhaust was removed to clean up the lumpy weld inside the header pipe.
Maybe Honda needs to rewrite their manual for this bike and state...
"CAUTION: You must run this bike in a very specific order for it to run properly, if all of these conditions are not met, engine may stall during riding. Also note, to not experience any stall during start/warm up, start only on days when outside temperature is below 70 degrees F."
Ridiculous.
__________________
It's not about how much power you have, it's about how much you can actually use.
Her CBR
My CBR
Isla
