It's a joke. Just like telling people the bike stalls because they are riding it "wrong". But I don't think the people who almost got ran over and Honda can't fix it find it funny.
The only thing missing is a man in a black top hat with handlebar moustache, peddling it town to town from the back of a horse-drawn wagon. "We've come a long way, baby!"
Sorry, I couldn't read thru 90 pages on the topic. Yet, from the fifteen or so pages that I have read it appears the problem isn't solved. So, having only experienced this once coming around a corner pretty quickly, I have just one question.
Has anyone who experiences this problem attempted to bypass the side stand (kick stand) sensor to see if perhaps it was getting a false reading from the movement on the bike?
For those who experience it when riding forward and not turning. Are you by chance placing your toes under the gear shift and perhaps accidentally pressing down a little which then applies a little pressure on the stand lever?
I ride with the ball of my foot on the peg and only move my foot forward when it is time to shift. However, I am very annoyed with the stand level being where it is. On my other bikes it is behind the foot peg.
Returning to my question, since a major sensor that shuts down the engine happens to be the stand sensors - has anyone experiencing this issue frequently attempted to bypass this sensor to see if it cures the problem.
Just asking -
Thanks
-MJ
__________________
-MJ
My Toys:
2010 Triumph Bonneville
2011 Triumph 675 Street Triple
2011 Honda CBR250R
2012 Honda Rebel
My kick stand switch only kills the engine when it is 3/4 of the way down. No way to accidentally bump it that far. If it was a faulty switch itself, it would stall at any time. Not just with the clutch in and throttle closed. This must have been last discussed one page before where you started reading the thread. And the page before that.
I have never heard of this cut out problem in Thailand may be because the
kick stand here does not cut out the engine. the sensor must be only fitted to export models. Just a thought may be im wrong.
mine cut out about 10 times during first phase after purchase [used - 600km]
typically after acel then rapid decel esp involving an inclined road but not always..
also a few times clutch in gliding into curve after uphil mild acel, pre rear park..
this stand sensor has been raised here and in other places.. google it..
installed a yoshi rear set plate kit a few weeks ago [back 45 up 30]
adjusting shift lever in process, downwards, as a starting point..
ie, more towards, side stand heel bracket..
anyway, this has resulted in occasional light snaring of my toe on bracket
[not much more than a solid touch] but enough to be well aware of..
so to the point of your question; this has crystalised in my mind
that i had not,, touched that heel bracket with standard setup..
the few cut outs in short glide clutch in are on a fairly steep uphill street
after not much more than normal acel after turning into that/my street
and uphill about 50m.. ie, without any change in momentum or
mass transfer which could move the side stand thus sensor...
dont quote me but this has been raised before and if i recall
someone has disabled that sensor as a test re cut-outs..
[not the culprit for them apparently]..
whenever mine did cutout it restarted with an immediate touch
of the starter button.. that response came from the first instance
when i was still hardly moving [turning across lights] thus no
option for clutch starting it by dropping the clutch..
anyway, its immediate, virtually no effective gap
or any dwell between cut-out and re-start..
hot cutouts havnt happened for some time now, only factor
for me being religiously allowing settling to 1500rpm at startup..
theres a chance that it could have happened perhaps when easing
into traffic lights etc, but perhaps ive learned to keep revs up a bit
etc, from the first lot of cutouts.. we all live and learn,
esp with specific skills such as handling a motorcycle..
ecu, valves, type of fuel/quality, have all been mentioned
with various degrees of probability.. good news seems to be
that cut-outs seem to 'fade away' over time according to reports..
oh, also, this is not, specific to this motorcycle,
as a quick google search shows, any fuel injected
bike or car whatever manufacturer seems to be
potentially effected with such cutout events..
I've had it for the first time today; though not after downshifting; I was riding in traffic jam for a bit and went from 3000 rpm, while letting the throttle go and quickly grabbing the clutch as I had to brake to almost a standstill. Nothing serious; I mostly never let the engine get under 3000 rpm while moving.
I bought a new CBR250R in Oct, and it has stalled 2 times now, first on the highway in an emergency stop (traffic jam in front) I came from high rpm and brakes till stop and pulled the clutch in way before stopping. Engine died on me and wouldn't restart easily, I pulled the bike to the side and I was about to call for help when a final restart worked.
2nd time was recently as I ran into a traffic lighjt that turned red so I stopped (again from high rpm) and pulled the clutch and it stalled , didn't start when I was still moving so I pulled it over to the side, returned the key to off and then turned the key to on and restarted it normally.
I would hate to have this happen on the left lane of the highway, it is potentially life threatening to end up there with a stalled engine....
Taking it to the dealer later this week, it's no longer US bikes as both the previous poster and myself are from the Netherlands,
Honda CBR250R
