So about a week I hopped on my bike headed to work. I stopped at the local fuel station that has non-ethanol fuel, and topped off the tank. After filling up, I started losing power, and limped the rest of the way to work. It died at a stop sign, I pushed it to the top of the overpass just before work, and coasted down eased the clutch out, and got it going. When I stopped to show my identification, it died again.
I made arrangements and trailered it home. I pumped all of the fuel out, and removed the tank. I went to my local Honda dealer and ordered 06160-KYJ-920 Fuel Filter Kit for $55 (yikes). Today I received a call from the parts manager letting me know that the filters were back ordered.
With the filter being on the suction side of the fuel pump, is there any reason I cannot replace the filter with a standard Honda 16900-MG8-003 fuel filter?
I'll try to cover everyone's questions.
First, the bike ran fine the last time I took it out, which admittedly was a couple of months ago due to all of the rain we have been getting lately. The bike started and ran fine for the five miles or so that it took to get to the gas station, and gave the first signs of distress were very shortly after.
Second, there is a faint "tide line" inside the tank at around half a tank of what looks like varnish. I almost always park the bike with a full tank, so I don't know how long that has been there. Otherwise, the tank looks typical.
Here is a coincidence, when I pulled the rider's seat, my peg puck had fallen down near the intake snorkel...
I took several measurements, and verified that the filter is indeed on the suction side of the pump. I will replace the filter with the proper one when it comes in, but this one should make do to verify whether or not I have other issues, low voltage, weak fuel pump, etc.
The filter is close enough in length, but I added a layer of foam tape to get the diameter right. This filter fits scores of other Honda motorcycles including Goldwings and SuperSports, so I do not believe that volume or capacity will be an issue.
So, here's a little update. The problem does not look to have been fuel related at all.
Since I wanted to cover all of my bases, I picked up a fuel and air filter, and a spark plug.
While I already had the tank off, it would be an opportune time to change the spark plug, remove the PAIR valve and install the block-off plate.
When I pulled the spark plug, my heart sank. It suddenly occurred to me what was causing the problem...
Since I figured that any damage that had been done was done, I swapped the plug, reinstalled the fuel tank, and poured in a gallon of fresh fuel.
I cycled the key several times to ensure that the fuel system was primed, and hit the start button.
The engine turned over fine, I got one pop, but the engine did not start...
I've got to head over to my dad's place and pick up my compression gauge and spark tester. Hopefully I have a 10mm adapter for the compression gauge.
Now my big concern is how much damage that little piece of ground electrode did bouncing around in there.
Looks like I've put 77 miles on the bike since I got it out of storage and to the new house. Which is about right, a quick ride after unloading it to a friend's house that's 15 or so miles away, a couple of trips around the block, and a trip to work.
Now for the bad news...
Less than 15PSI compression.
I verified top dead center.
I verified that the cams were in the correct cycle. The lines don' exactly line up with the top of the head, hmmm.
I removed the cap that retains the rocker arm shaft, and used one of the cam cover bolts to extract it while pushing down on the valves with my thumb to relieve the tension.
I then removed the shims from the top of the valve stems.
To test to see if the intake valves seated now that the rocker arm wasn't in contact, I filled the intake port with some two-stroke fuel. The right valve leaks more than the left, but both leak.