Changed my oil for the first time yesterday, and all went well. Great.
Only thing is when i went to torque the oil filter cover bolts (9ft/lbs) they never even remotely got tight. Leading me to believe either the dealer or factory jacked up and over tightened them before i got the bike.
Has anyone else had thus issue? How do i correct said issue?
DO NOT use torque wrench like the manual says or you will strip the bolts,
12Nm is about a billion times too much and torque wrenches generally dont go down that low.
Its one thing that is wrong in the Owners Maunal, and has caused some grief for a few ppl.
Ive written a guide here that mentions it-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aufitt
Buy Genuine Honda Kit ~ $40 from your friendly Honda dealer.
Warm engine to operating temp, so go for a long blast.
Break out that foreign and rarely used object called 'Owners manual ' Page 55.
Remove rhs Fairing & rhs undercowl using 5mm allen key and phillips screwdriver. Page 50/51
Place drain pan under drain bolt,
Remove oil fill cap, drain bolt & sealing washer to drain the oil.
Remove the oil filter cover,spring, oil filter, & gasket.using 8mm socket on the 4 filter cover bolts.
Install new oil filter with 'Outside' facing out.
Install spring into filter cover, then install the new gasket & filter cover & 4 bolts carefully.
Push inwards and line it all up then tighten the cover bolts using 8mm socket on screw handle.
DO NOT use torque wrench like the manual says or you will strip the bolts,
12Nm is about a billion times too much and torque wrenches generally dont go down that low.
Replace sealing washer and oil drain bolt, torque to 24Nm.
Put 1.5l 10w-30 oil in filler with small clean funnel then replace filler cap.
Start engine for one minute.
stop engine & wait 2-3 mins then re-check oil with bike level.
Check for leaks.
Reinstall fairing & undercowl.
If you have stripped the threads you will need to Helicoil them.
__________________
Team Gumby.
The Following User Says Thank You to Aufitt For This Useful Post:
nine foot lbs is at the bottom end of the torque scale on most torque wrenches - meaning it's the least accurate, especially on the spring-loaded click-type wrenches.
These bolts only need enough torque to compress the o-ring - two fingers 4 inches from the pivot is a gracious plenty. If your bolts "never even get remotely tight", then there are three helicoils in your future.
Luke
p.s. this is not a rant against technology or torque wrenches - but there are certain inviolable rules about torque:
Cheap torque wrenches are... cheap. A precision measuring device has to be made with precision, and precision costs money. This is especially true of the spring type wrenches, where everything from the ductility of the spring to the profile of the cam to the accuracy of the scale is critical. Look for the accuracy numbers, which most spring-type wrenches don't even list.
Any time you get toward the lower or upper end of a spring wrench's torque range, accuracy departs. The wrenches are calibrated for the middle range, and the non-linear characteristics of a spring make the extremes an approximation at best.
A Spring wrench will never equal the accuracy of a split-beam wrench, especially over time. The split-beam construction does not use a compressed spring to determine the torque, which is inherently non-linear and degrades over time. Note this is not about a "floating beam" wrench (the ultra-cheap ones with the little pointer rod over the main shaft), this is a split-beam wrench.
For bolts smaller than 8mm or so, trust your fingers - if you're worried about a bolt loosening, use a drop of blue loctite. But if you want the torque set correctly, then buy a tool that will set it correctly - and that's not going the be the $39.95 special at Advance Auto. My split-beam 3/8" Snap-on wrench cost me close to $300 five years ago, but when I recently had it checked it was still within the 4% variation that it was guaranteed to have new. In contrast, a similar aged Craftsman Spring wrench I had (that was always stored with the spring unloaded) was off by 12 ft-lbs at an 80 ft-lb settings - that's 15%, and it's more than enough to snap or strip a small bolt.
The Following User Says Thank You to Luke For This Useful Post:
... geeze lol. I do what the manual says, which turns out is incorrect. Can that be coveted under warranty since its their fault that i did what they told me to do?
I hand tightened them, and then tried the torque wrench. I didnt " strip them out" bc to do so means they atleast had to get snug. I do know for a fact that at 0 miles the dealer installed the battery and break in oil, so maybe they threw the oil filter in and over tightened the bolts?
Anyways would installing helicoils void my warranty?
Anyways would installing helicoils void my warranty?
I can't believe it would - that's what the dealer would do if it happened in the shop, he probably wouldn't even tell you.
If you go this route, two warnings: First, do everything you can to hold the drill perfectly straight - get someone to eyeball it from the side while you do the top. It's not a bad idea to use a small square across the oil filter opening if you have one. Second, don't over-drill the hole. Look at the helicoil length and drill just slightly deeper. The crankcase is soft aluminum and you can punch through to the inside if you get heavy-handed.
one last thing - lock the helicoil with red loctite - but don't put the bolts in for 24 hours. If you install the bolts right after the helicoil, there's a chance that there might be uncured loctite on the threads. If there is, you'll need a torch next time you change the oil.
The Following User Says Thank You to Luke For This Useful Post:
Yea ive done a few and fully realize that my father shall be nominated to preform this surgery lol. Hes done it alot so i trust him more than the dealer. I just dont wanna f up my warranty
... I do know for a fact that at 0 miles the dealer installed the battery and break in oil, so maybe they threw the oil filter in and over tightened the bolts?
Dealers do not put "break in" oil, or oil filters in new bikes when they do the Set Up/Pre-Delivery Inspection. Motorcycles are shipped from the factory with regular motorcycle engine oil already in the crankcase.
The Following User Says Thank You to MotoMike For This Useful Post:
First oil change / small rant
