Some feedback from doing my own First 600 mi Service.
Ride bike to warm up the oil.
Ride front tire up on 2 2x6 boards to make bile level when rear tire is on jack.
Make sure filter is facing correct direction when installing.
Don't over tighten cover bolts, feels like it could strip easily.
Flip drain plug washer over to crush in other direction.
Reused filter cover gasket. HOW OFTER SHOULD BE REPLACED?
Release coolant fan wires before trying to reposition fan/cooler to gain access to valve cover.
Valve cover was king of fun to wiggle out.
Intakes were .007 in. (.006 in. spec)
Exhaust were .010 in. (.011 in. spec)
Reused old valve cover gaskets, HOW OFTEN SHOULD BE REPLACED?
Pretty tight squeeze working on valve clearence. HOW DIFFICULT IS THE JOB TO CHANGE OUT ADJUSTMENT SHIMS?
Buttoned up motor and ran up to operating temp, no oil leaks, test ride fun!
Pretty easy job, nothing to be afraid of as long as you have a workshop manual.
I changed my oil last week, and the guy who changed it at the first service had messed up the small gasket on the oil filter, what a sorry job they seem to do at the Honda shop where I live, so I am doing all of my own services from now on. In the owners manual it recommends changing the oil filter cover gasket and the drain plug sealing washer with each oil change. They are less than a dollar a piece so it's very inexpensive to change it with each oil change so I would recommend changing them every time.
Your exhaust valve measurements are at the tight end of the allowed clearance. I typically replace the shim(s) when that occurs. You may want to check that again in 5K miles or before that if the bike doesn't start easily.
At least you guys don't have to remove the camshafts to change out shims.
John '89NX250 (daily rider), '09CRF230L (L'il Red Piglet)
Propelled by Penguin Power
Nekid motorcycles feel faster
I was wondering about the valve adjustments, seems I had heard/read that you remove a bolt and the camshaft slides over or something?? Care to enlighten me how you adjust them?
1989 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - mostly stock with a scottoiler system, Oxford Heaterz heated grips, Works Performance rear shock, Traxxion Dynamics front forks, and a pair of Oxford Muffs for when its really cold. My Mileage Tracker Page. Ninja 250 Riders Club
I messed up the oil filter gasket, too! It ended up inside the oil filter. It took a pen to fish it out of the housing and reinstall.
My 12 mm generic copper crush washer did not fit my oil plug bolt, by the way. It took a second trip to the dealer, where I learned that only the Honda 12mm AL (12.3 mm actually) crush washers fits the bolt. When I left my dealer, I felt like I was the first CBR250r to have ever done his own oil change. There is an old timers there behind the parts' counter who did not share any insight into this matter.
By the way, the oil filter housing gasket is not that cheap. My dealer charged me $5.00 for it, but I didn't use it this time. I figure that this item can be replaced every other oil change. And, it looks like the crush washer can have a long life, too!
By the way, my oil plug bolt was not equipped with a crush washer. I swear on that statement! It was a naked bolt onto the housing when I removed it. I checked the oil pan, which contained nothing but oil!
I haven't checked the valves yet, but it seems that a simple check of the valve clearances is not that hard. The challenge comes with making adjustments to clearances by swapping out shims. I don't think that my handicapper fingers ( wrist injury last year severed my median nerve) are nimble enough for that task. Out to the dealer for adjustment when that day comes!