Running in procedure.

[djsb]

As my bike will be delivered next week thought I'd ask about the running in procedure. What is the "Official" Honda way and are there any tips on doing this properly. I really want to get the best from this bike.
Thanks.

David.

[lewiCBR250R]

As per honda manual

[lewiCBR250R]

just vary the revs, don't stay at one rev for too long, do what it says in the previous post and just don't redline the bike, i kept mine below 7,000rpm and just went a bit easy.

Some people break their bikes in on the track, some believe riding it like you stole it is a good technique, there is really no right or wrong way of running it in and there are many methods. By the way, honda runs the bikes through all the gears and takes it to redline from the factory before you get to ride it so they even ride it hard to make sure everything works ok

Skip to 3:30

Honda factory -CBR - YouTube

Honda factory -CBR - YouTube

[Aufitt]

The factory has run it on rollers to redline.

The dealer will start bike up after the battery charge and let it cool down.

Dealer should have ridden the bike around the block 1.5km and let cool down.

Go to dealer warm up to 3 bars on the temp guage with constant blips of the throttle, let bike cool down while you sign your life away on the purchase contract.

Ride home 1/2 throttle 1/2 revs (6000rpm), let it cool down while you memorise the entitre owners manual.

later that arvo after you've lubed & adjusted cables, adjusted pegs, lubed lever pivot pins, set the shock sag, lubed gear shifter pivot pin, checked tyre pressures, lubed chain, etc go for ride 15-20km 3/4 throttle, 3/4 revs (8000rpm), 3/4 load, let bike cool down.

Next day ride bike half hr to 1hr, 50-100km distance working every gear up and down @ full throttle full revs (10,500), let it cool down.

When you get home drop the oil & change filter, with battery disconmnected while you do so.
bike is run in and ready to be flogged the ******************** out of untill the first sevice when the valve clearances will be checked and the oil & filter changed again.

It will never rattle or stall, & wont need shims @1000km and produce its optimum power for the next 100,000km.




^or ignore all that and book in for a dyno run and its done in 1/4 the time.

[Soulbreeze]

~~
Haven't heard of anyone having issues regardless of how any particular bike is broken in.

But if you go for a hard break-in, change the oil a couple of times before the first service.

Biggest thing is they want the bike to go through hot and cold cycles. So ride it so it gets all warmed up, park to cool down. Then get it hot again, then park it. Keep rpm variable and that's the general break in for any bike I've ever heard of. Only thing is to not hold constant speeds as this makes the rings wear-in incorrectly and not give the best seals (just from what I've read).
~~

[Rory_L]

My dealer simply told me to keep it under 6000 rpm until the first service (600 miles).

[Joeboo]

I've had bikes, outboards, cars etc & gone by the take it easy approach & they just don't rev or perform as well as the ones I've given a real hard time to. Once it's warm I take it to just before redline & vary the revs but never let it lug. Another thing I don't do is free rev it, it's not good for an engine without load on it. All our drag & race car engines are built, tuned & run hard, some even last a season. Warm it up & ride it, worst case it's got warranty

[sac]

arvo

Web definitions
afternoon.en.wiktionary.org/wiki/arvo

[SDM]

Every motor I break in the same way, ride it, drive it like I stole it, never had a problem just change the oil & filter keep up with your maintenance.