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post #1 of 11 Old 12-26-2012, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Anti-pinch pin

Hi,
I'm considering using one of these Anti-Pinch pins with my new bike

Anti-Pinch Pin - Big Chains and Tight Spaces

The Squire lock is on it's way

Just have to work out which pin size to use. I'm going to send them an email to see if they can help. Does anyone have any ideas about where I could fit the pin (which can be covered in heat shrink tubing to protect the bike) THROUGH the frame? Is there anywhere on the bike where you can see any daylight from one side to the other (near the centre of the bike or near the frame /engine).
If I had the bike I'd check for myself.
Any ideas/inspiration?
Thanks.

David.

PS If someone has a spare broom handle that they can pass through the bike and then measure the length from where the broom enters to where it passes to the other side (with a photo if possible) I would be very grateful.
I could then choose a pin that is LONGER than this measurement.

Last edited by djsb; 12-26-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-26-2012, 03:55 PM
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The distance is roughly the distance between your knees when sitting down

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post #3 of 11 Old 12-26-2012, 06:48 PM
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There is a gap just above the starter motor. Couldn't find a tape measure.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-26-2012, 07:56 PM
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Anti-pinch pin

I have the 290mm Anti-Pinch Pin. It goes through the heart of the bike from left to right. The large "head" of the pin, and the link of chain on that side, are quite a ways in there, and therefore difficult to attack. On the right side, the pin will stick out enough to get a link of the chain on it, and the lock, and that's about all. Going from right to left, there isn't enough room in there for the lock. Or maybe there is for someone more coordinated than I am, but it's definitely a tight squeeze.

When I'm out and about, I use a different strategy. The pin can go in from the front on the right side, between the engine and the frame, and stick out right behind the lowest opening in the fairing. The head of the pin won't fit between the engine and frame, so it can't be pulled all the way through. This way, I can lock both ends of the chain to one end of the pin (next to the lock) and have a lot more reach to get to an immovable object.

Hope this helps.
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djsb (12-27-2012)
post #5 of 11 Old 12-27-2012, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like the next size up from 290mm (340mm) is the one to choose. When you say 'heart of the bike' where exactly is that.What do you mean by 'there isn't enough room in there for the lock'? Is your lock and end link of the chain able to attach to the end of the pin securely? Do you mean there is not enough room to hide the lock? Do you have the heat shrink tubing on the pin? Sorry for all the questions. Just want to be sure I understand.
Thanks.

David.

PS The 340mm version is not in stock for at least a month. Just ordered a 290mm version. Just hope it fits OK.
I will post some photo's later and experiment with fitting it whichever way fits.

Last edited by djsb; 12-27-2012 at 07:37 AM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-27-2012, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Wonder if this would fit through the rear suspension dog bones?

David
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-27-2012, 08:30 PM
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David,

I can't seem to find my digital camera, so I'll try to describe how I fit it.

Going in from the left, directly above the crankcase and behind the cylinder, there's a small opening that goes right through the bike. As the end of the pin gets to the right side of the bike, it goes under the clutch cable. The 290mm pin is quite short, so the head of it is several inches "inside" the bike from the left side, with the lock end sticking out a couple of inches on the right side. If I try to fit the pin from the right, the head of it stops at the clutch cable, and the lock end is kind of buried in the middle of the bike. You might be able to get the lock in there, but it would be an awkward fit.

I agree that the longer pin would make life easier. I just wanted the shortest possible pin because even the 290mm version barely fits in my tailbag. I also think it's probably harder to attack if it doesn't stick out where someone could get a cutting tool on it, but I could be wrong there. I made a plastic version out of PVC pipe and a plastic lid from a jar in order to check fit before I ordered the Pin, because short was important to me.

I do not have the heat shrink tubing on the Pin. That would be a good thing to have, but in the meantime, I'm very careful when threading it through the bike. It's a big piece of steel, and it could do some damage. I am impressed with how tightly the lock fits to the Pin. It doesn't look easy to attack at all.

I'll dig around and find my camera this weekend so I can post some pictures.

Mike
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-27-2012, 09:27 PM
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That thing is a waste of money. Odd design.

Just use a lock on your rotor
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-28-2012, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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I do that as well. I also dont have a garage. If you only use a disc lock the whole bike can be picked up and thrown in a van. I also dont like my insurance premiums increasing every year because of my bike being stolen.
Even a garage is not invulnerable. It provides a nice enclosed space where a thief can work on removing your locks in peace.
I try my best to prevent theft, I dont see a problem with that approach.

David.
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-28-2012, 06:04 PM
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No lock will prevent your bike from being stolen. If someone wants it bad enough, they will take it.... lock, cable, garage, welded to the floor.....it will not stop theft. Park your bike in a low crime area. Lock the front rotor and hope no one wants it that badly..
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