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post #27 of Old 09-07-2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by maxSteel View Post
Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?

For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.

The current leakage is in the troubleshooting guide as one way to test the regulator/rectifier. If you get high leakage current reading you unplug the regulator/rectifier, if leakage current drops below maximum of .34 mA you have a bad regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier can also go bad and show no leakage current if an internal component "opens", or blows like a fuse would.

A 12 volt test won't light at these small currents. I have a small pocket size test light that I bought at a BMW dealer and it draws 250 mA's or 1/4 amp.

The grass is always greener . . .

Last edited by gyrotumbler; 09-07-2015 at 07:55 PM.
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