Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tampa, Florida
Thanked 45 Times in 31 Posts
Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?
For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.
The current leakage is in the troubleshooting guide as one way to test the regulator/rectifier. If you get high leakage current reading you unplug the regulator/rectifier, if leakage current drops below maximum of .34 mA you have a bad regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier can also go bad and show no leakage current if an internal component "opens", or blows like a fuse would.
A 12 volt test won't light at these small currents. I have a small pocket size test light that I bought at a BMW dealer and it draws 250 mA's or 1/4 amp.
The grass is always greener . . .
Last edited by gyrotumbler; 09-07-2015 at 07:55 PM.