So I was plying with the look of the CBR a little. Let me know what you all think.
I took the rear seat, cleaned it, wiped it down with SEM vinyl cleaner/prep and painted it white with SEM Vinyl white spray bomb. I have used the SEM products before on car dashes, car seats and boat seats, it take a beating and works well if properly cleaned and prepped
If you want I can see what I can find, I can also get vinyl colors mixed (painter at shop) you are not far from me in tampa. let me know if you want to give it a shot
I bought a used set off ebay and cut them down , filled in some areas with putty and painted, I want to radius top edge a little more to match side panel and then paint to match body
We sanded the previous owners spray-bomb job and then I applied the white base over that and then the clear...., no primer or sealer, did not sand between base and clear (you really do not need to do that)
I might wet sand and buff clear coat,,,but I kind of doubt it, my helper at work volunteered to do it..probably let him do it
no... rustoleum and foam rollers would not be the ideal way
What do you recommend for paint on the on the tank that's proof against fuel? My factory paint just melted off from a fuel spill (spare tank now). I'd like to redo it in Repsol Orange. I'm setup for old fashioned spraying, regular binks gun, no hplv. Have a big enough compressor to handle most paints.
gas is tough on any paint....but we use PPG Deltron DBC and a high grade urethane 2-part clear.
if you are going to strip the old tank to bare metal I would start like this
1. clean tank inside and out with a high quality, wax and grease/oil removing solvent ( we use a couple different kinds but I use dx330 and dx320 alot
2. use a chemical paint stripper to remove old paint. take care to keep it from getting inside tank
3. Clean with a water/alcohol based cleaner then wash again with solvent PPG DX330
4. Sand with anything from 80 to 220 grit paper over outside of bare metal tank if you have any dents and need bondo and primer, if tank in fine, I would use a little finer, say 320-400, but make sure it is sanded and cleaned well..can never be too clean
5. Clean again ( seems like I am always cleaning off parts)
6. Clean dust off tank with tack rag, Spray tank outside with PPG DX1791, it is a transparent Self Etching Wash Primer
7. 30 min later you can apply your 2 part sealer, then basecoat color and 2 part urethane clear
The equip you have will work fine, Sprayed with a binks gun for long time, I now use a Sata 3000 HVLP, incredible guns, need to get another one
I would recommend doing a test panel or two before you start, to learn how everything reacts and how different products spray......especially clear, any mistake up the that product can be easily repaired without slowing project down to a stop...mess other items up and adds another 30-60 mins to time...mess the clear and I`d wait a couple days before I would try to re shoot it...sooner if you want to take the risk
hope I did not bore your, but wanted to be clear...oh, and clean the part again
Didn't bore me a bit and I appreciate the detail. I'm going to stop by my Napa shop and see if they can order/mix that paint code. If not I have a sample to bring them, they are great at color matching.
Def going to take your advice and strip bare, no idea how this cheap honda paint would react, and with a big section all crinkled up it's easier to strip than sand smooth .
I restore cars as a hobby and just paint panels. If a car needs a complete paint I take it to a pro. If you were closer I'd be talking to you about my '65 Mustang....I'm about 3 months from body/paint stage.
If your tank is only peeling at a small area, you might just want to sand it down to bare metal in that area and outward about an inch, you can wet sand with 400 grit by hand, using a mixture of water and a couple drops dawn dish soap (or other liquid soap), the paint will sand off pretty easily , the wider you have the different clear/color,primer bands when you sand the better off you will be, less likely to see them , after sanded treat are as you would a bare tank
what is the paint code? I can look it up and print you out a formula for PPG, or I can mix it and send you a pint ready to spray..be cheaper for you and you can use PPG paint under martin senior clear which I think napa handles...******************** I think I have some urethane clear and hardner here you can have if you want..
We just had an older mustang in, right now we have an 70`s olds 442, 2 old 356 porsches, a 65 vette....I try and stay away from the resto jobs and stick to running the production side of shop..I was only supposed to be there part time..next thing I hear is " your in charge of production side of shop"..LOL They are good people and we have fun
Colorite YR250 is what friend at stealership told me for the wheels, and it was spot on perfect for rattlecan. Honda parts catalog shows the YR271, but I used that same YR250 rattlecan for the tank touchup on the used repsol tank and I can't tell the difference. I don't trust bike color codes as much as cars where you get an actual tag to look at on the vehicle.
Your CBR is very nice! The exahust is from the CB500 isn´t it? Did you have any trouble to install it on the CBR250R? Was needed any extra piece or not?
It was actually very easy, on the white bike I used the 250 gasket inside the 500 gasket and put it over the stock 250 header pipe, had to grind a little of gasket material to make it fit, nothing major. you will have to make a new exhaust hanger, I used a piece of flat stainless steel ( it was what I had sitting around), aluminum would work also. Doing it like that sets the whole muffler assembly closer to footpeg.
0n red,white, blue, bike I went to local auto store and bought a 2 inch long adapter pipe , not sure what size ends where, but it stepped from smaller size of 250 header up to larger 500 size muffler, that works well also
hope that helps, if not please feel free to ask
Mike
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