CB300F compatible top triple clamp raise handlebar higher fits cbr250 - Page 4 - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #31 of 53 Old 03-17-2015, 12:17 AM
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Thanks! That is a Honda color - Silverstone metallic. It was a color option on the S2000, Insight, etc.

I used the CB300F cables, brake line, etc that are listed in gyrotumbler’s earlier post in this thread.

That is the stock windscreen, I just cut it down a bit.

And that is a Ventura rack and their Aero-Delta pack. They have other racks and luggage which interchange quickly. For example, I also have their smaller sport rack / pack that can be swapped on in about a minute.


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post #32 of 53 Old 05-19-2015, 01:22 AM
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I have just ordered all the parts listed by gyrotumbler. I am sure I will need some help putting this all together as installing my Helibars bars were about as complicated as I have done before.

I do have a question of gyrotumbler, as to exactly how did you bend the new handle bar? Did you apply heat to it?

I will print this thread for reference when I start the install, but do any of you have anything else to add for a novice?

I am just hoping for a more upright riding position.

Thanks,
Bent
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post #33 of 53 Old 05-19-2015, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bent View Post
I do have a question of gyrotumbler, as to exactly how did you bend the new handle bar? Did you apply heat to it?
Thanks,
Bent
No heat, just muscle.

The grass is always greener . . .
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post #34 of 53 Old 06-11-2015, 12:47 AM
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I (not by myself) have installed the CB300F bars. I have ridden it about 100 miles and enjoyed the ride so much more than before. Yes, I think I am sitting up straight. I had Helibars on the bike for last about 2 years. This was a much more drastic change vs the stock bars to the Helibars.

I have ABS brakes and was not able to use the 45125-K33-701 HOSE, FR. BRAKE from the CB300F. There does not seem to be a replacement line I can use and I really don't think one is needed. If someone comes up with one, please post it.

I would encourage the next person to go ahead and order (Two) 90107-MBG-000 BOLT, ONE-WAY (8MM) to secure the LOCK SET. I just used bolts that gyrotumbler gave the specs to.

I bent the CB300F bars quite a bit, both up and back. The position has my hands turning out and up (if I am saying that correctly). It feels a little strange, but I have adapted to it already. It does not interfere with controlling the bike at all.

I still have some finishing touches to do. Like trimming the wind screen so it looks OK. While I was at it, I put on a 15t sprocket (like it just fine) and heated grips (not that time of year to test them) that I had purchased over a year ago.

I really want to thank all those (gyrotumbler, Pro, PSUrider and mrmunsell) (in that order) who pioneered this. You all have made my riding more enjoyable.

Bent
2011 CBR250RA with 16,000 miles.
Pro and sliando like this.
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post #35 of 53 Old 06-15-2015, 01:57 PM
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Exactly the forum I was lookimg for. I too would like to sit up more straight. So for you guys who has tried both Helibars and CB300F handlebars, would you recommend to go directly to the CB300F set-up? Worth the extra work needed?
Bent, since I have ABS on my bike, are you saying I could keep the front brakes hose as is, and wouldn't have to bleed the brakes?
Finally any of you interested in selling his Helibars? Or rent them so I can try (just kidding)?

Thanks all for sharing that info.
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post #36 of 53 Old 06-16-2015, 12:25 AM
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ALach,

I would not go with Helibars, if you are wanting to sit up right. While Helibars were better than stock, they will leave you wanting more, a lot more. I am glad I put them on when I did, but the better solution using the CB300f bars was not available at the time.

As far as the ABS brake lines, I do not think I will need to change to a longer line. But if someone comes up with the right fit for a longer line I would look into going that route.

I still have not cut back enough of my windshield to be able to turn the handlebars all the way to each side. I will work on doing that in a few weeks. I have a Tyga Touring windscreen on top of my stock windshield and the bars will hit the Tyga also. So I am moving slowly seeing if I really want to cut in to the Tyga windscreen also.

I may have more to say when I get the project finished in a few weeks. In the mean time, I have ridden some 300 miles using the new bars and hope to another 150 tomorrow.

Good luck with your project.

Bent
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post #37 of 53 Old 06-19-2015, 10:38 PM
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Bent,
Thanks very much for your advice. I'll go that way too. Being from Canada I might have to shop around a bit more to find a good price though. Did I miss something or nobody mentioned the best solution to fill the gap around the ignition?
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post #38 of 53 Old 06-20-2015, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALach View Post
Bent,
Thanks very much for your advice. I'll go that way too. Being from Canada I might have to shop around a bit more to find a good price though. Did I miss something or nobody mentioned the best solution to fill the gap around the ignition?
The gap around the ignition is for cooling reasons

The gab around the ignition lock does not look (to me) so bad, on this pic


Black aquarium silcone, maybe?

I would like to have this ignition lock with the lock for the keyhole.
On 2013 CBR150, they had it. And a bit smaller as on this CB300

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post #39 of 53 Old 06-20-2015, 09:41 AM
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Bent,
Did I miss something or nobody mentioned the best solution to fill the gap around the ignition?
I used a rubber o-ring but I noticed it's already cracking and drying out.
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The grass is always greener . . .

Last edited by gyrotumbler; 06-21-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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post #40 of 53 Old 06-30-2015, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CBR-250-R View Post
The gab around the ignition lock does not look (to me) so bad...
Yeah, I agree... which is why its been low on my todo list.

One idea that came to mind was black weatherstripping. I had a little excess garage door weatherstripping lying around, so I gave that a try. The lip that is intended to seal against the ground is tapered and the leading edge is about the same width as the gap.

So I cut off the leading edge and pressed it into place. The wider the strip, the thicker the backside will be... so the tighter the fit and the more difficult the installation. After a little trial and error, I ended up going with a width of about 10 mm. That results in a back edge that is about twice the thickness of the leading edge. That made it a good tight press fit that was still not too hard to install without damaging the weatherstripping.

Given its intended application, I think it should hold up to the elements well... just not sure how well it stay in place. Time will tell. If that turns out to a problem, a variation of the idea might be to buy some of that adhesive backed weatherstripped... if you can find it in a similar thickness.







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