Agreed... I'll add that any engine, whether air cooled or liquid cooled, carbureted or EFI, should ALWAYS be given a short warm up period to allow the internal parts to heat and expand, before the motor is subjected to loading at RPM. Short changing you engine warm up time, to pinch a few pennies worth of fuel is just plain dumb. Sorry, but I have to call it like I see it. Still its your engine, treat it as you see fit.
Would you think that Formula One team's just fire up one of those engines and head out onto the track, and immediately put down hot laps, just because it has EFI, liquid cooling and engine management computers? Not a chance. They have a very specific engine start up protocol, including heat cycles, and stepped RPM cycling prior to warm up laps. Only then is the engine deemed ready to unleash its 975 HP.
I don't think any of us consider the CBR250R a Formula One machine, or freshly rebuild our engines before every race/drive, or consistently rev to 16,000 rpms and pull 1000+ horsepower, so I don't think this analogy is applicable, nor have I ever considered my actions dumb. Sure, we'd all agree that allowing an engine to warm up to full operating temperature before any rise above idle would be ideal. But I'm also sure you don't do that for your bike for every ride, or let your car warm for 20 minutes for every drive now do you? If you do, I'd suggest otherwise, because more than likely you're going to foul your cat with soot from the consistent rich idle mixture collecting in your headers and not getting blown out by driving. Seen it many times before, and cats are more expensive than gas.
The small, miniscule amount of wear prevented is pretty much negligible as long as you ride your bike easily until it warms up. It only takes about 5-10 seconds for the oil pump to fully circulate oil to all the moving parts, including the cams, unless you're running jello in the crankcase. And if you run synthetic, and drive it nearly daily as in my case, the synthetic oil forms a nice film over all moving parts and helps to prevent dry starts. Check any clean MPG forum or test, they say to not let your vehicle idle. The RPM's are high, and the mixture is rich, and while idling, you're just wasting fuel. While driving, it warms the engine up much faster and you're actually contributing that energy that would be wasted during warmup to your commute. So there's no paradox here; idling to warm up uses more fuel than just driving it. And I never said to start it up and IMMEDIATELY flog the crap out of it. THAT would be dumb. Just drive it easy until it's warm
. It's not tuned aggressively or a performance machine; it is a common market amateur's bike and when proper maintenance is followed, should be able to turn and burn. We're not talking about the space shuttle here.
But we digress. I don't think it's an issue to happen on the rare occasion, I just think a 1 in 10 chance is a little high. My car is fuel injected, and it never cuts out on throttle crack from a cold start, so neither should this bike. I never expected it to be perfect, and neither should anyone else, especially this early in its life, but I do expect it to start first thing and be ready to go without croaking out. I started this thread just to see if this was commonly experienced occasionally by other riders, not to have my intelligence directly insulted. I've been under hoods and bikes since I was 7, and from all 600,000 miles I've put on my vehicles I've yet to have an engine related problem. Not to mention all this has nothing to do with the engine cutting out. So I suggest we keep the topic focused on what it was created for and not nitpicking people's startup procedures. It should NEVER cut out on first start; period. Unless there is something seriously wrong with the engine management, and I think we'd all know it if there was.