Chain slack - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 06-28-2015, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Chain slack

Hi guys,

I'm at my wit's end. I tried several times to adjust my chain slack. The bike is cold. I loosen the main axle screws (or whatever they're called in English), then the screws that keep the adjustment screws locked in place and finally I adjust the slack using the adjusters. When I reach proper slack I fasten the main axle again, check again for proper slack and then fasten the lock screws for the adjusters. Now the problem:
When I check the slack again next morning after a 50 miles ride the chain has no slack at all.
So I go over the whole procedure again and readjust the slack. Next morning after a 50 miles ride the chain again has no slack...
I've started to use a big metal pipe now to give me a longer lever on the wrench to fasten the main bolts of the axle so that there can't be any movement in the rear wheel suspension. I don't own a torque wrench but went to a dealer after adjusting my chain for the first time earlier last year and had him check the axle with one of his to make sure I fastened it with enough force and everything was ok. Now I'm already using more force then back then and the indicators on each swingarm's side don't show any movement either so that can't be the problem. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong (I mean apart from having been born...)?

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post #2 of 25 Old 06-28-2015, 12:40 PM
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You check the slack on tight and loose spots?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4DsHV8SAQ
I mean, you use a paddock stand?
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post #3 of 25 Old 06-28-2015, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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I usually do it on the side stand but will give the paddock a try next time.
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post #4 of 25 Old 06-28-2015, 01:50 PM
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Side stand is usually good as well.
But you did not spin the wheel (move the bike), to find the tight spot.
The video is pointing to that.
You may have adjusted a loose spot but 1/4, 1/2 a spin around, it's again tight.
And the marker are, like you adjusted them.
So give it a try and find out
Also, if on Paddock, it may tighten a bit if back on siderstand.
Give it 5mm more slack. And check how much it is, later on ground, again
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post #5 of 25 Old 06-28-2015, 09:29 PM
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raised free spinning wheel is best..
for cleaning, lubing and sighting along
top run of chain during and after
adjustment, for bowing etc..

what youre looking for is the variable..
[correct, ride, no slack]
first check chain for tight spots
[better, easier, faster with free wheel]
including after each adjustment..
could be simply the different position
of chain/tight spots on both occasions..

better allow more than less slack
to begin with, after, lube and ride..
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post #6 of 25 Old 06-29-2015, 12:36 AM
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Not an exact science.

As suggested, adjust the chain to be on the loose side. Allow for tight spots that occur as the chain and sprockets get a bit of milage on them. After the initial adjustment, an O-ring chain should need little more than a squirt of lube every week or two / 500 km. When you start having to adjust the chain frequently it is probably worn out. Replace the chain and sprockets.

Setting the chain too tight will result in premature wear, and could damage sprockets.
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post #7 of 25 Old 06-29-2015, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the paddock stand was an instant failure. Once the bike rests on it I can hardly work on any of the screws because the stand is in the way...I'll try it one more time and if things go south again I'll bring the thing to the dealer.

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post #8 of 25 Old 06-29-2015, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Well, the paddock stand was an instant failure. Once the bike rests on it I can hardly work on any of the screws because the stand is in the way...I'll try it one more time and if things go south again I'll bring the thing to the dealer.
Get the T-rex spools. It's what I used on my CBR and loved them. Never had an issue.


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post #9 of 25 Old 06-29-2015, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Well, the paddock stand was an instant failure. Once the bike rests on it I can hardly work on any of the screws because the stand is in the way...I'll try it one more time and if things go south again I'll bring the thing to the dealer.
Try a different position with the Paddock stand!
Behind the axle!
Spools are fine, but most stands come without. And it works!

Oh, here a vid with a CBR250
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvyeEFPVhIQ
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post #10 of 25 Old 06-29-2015, 11:14 AM
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I use hydraulic ATV jack under the bike, allows jacking up both wheels off of the ground, and I use two ratchet straps to secure the bike to the jack. Gives free access to the entire rear section, and it brings the bike up to a comfortable level to work on. Don't be afraid of a bit loose, it's far better for the motorcycle to be a little loose than a little tight. After doing my adustment in the air, I check again on the ground, and then once more have an assistant check while I'm sitting on the bike.
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Current stable: '72 GT750, '74 GT750x2, '75 GT750, '82 MB-5, '85 CMX250CD, '12 CBR250R, '14 Spyder RT-S
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