Charging System Problems- help please! - Page 2 - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #11 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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I'll do the current leakage test either later on today, or tomorrow sometime. I'll also be sure to try and check all connections/wires though I hadn't noticed any problems with any of the connections to the charging system.

I had also checked the stator to the ground ring on the center of it; had no reading (so it wasn't grounding out).

as for a service manual; I currently have a pdf of the honda service manual; not sure who had put it out though.
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post #12 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 02:08 PM
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The battery is for starting.
The charging system is for recharging the battery and providing electricity to the running engine and accessories.

I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but on a typical 12 volt car the alternator should be providing about 14.2 volts regardless of RPM and load.
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post #13 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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@maxSteel;
My thoughts too. I figured though; if the battery was bad and literally wouldn't hold anything over 13 volts, it would make sense that it could be the root cause of the problem.
However, as my battery has tested fine then I'm back to trying to identify which element of the charging system is bad. Either the stator, Regulator/rectifier, or the wiring. I've been through several fault-checking steps but haven't really had anything conclusive as of yet which is why I was wondering if anyone would have any more advice or tests I could preform.
For example: my stator's resistance when cold is in spec. However, when it's hot the resistance between phases drops down. Is this supposed to happen or does that mean that the stator is malfunctioning when hot? And although the R/R has passed the diode test, could it still be bad (as @gyrotumbler has suggested), and if so are there any tests to double check this element?

Last edited by Joe5181; 09-06-2015 at 02:34 PM. Reason: clarity
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post #14 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 03:32 PM
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The resistance of .1 -1 ohm is specified at 68 degrees in the manual so it probably changes a little with temperature.

Somebody else had a bad alternator coils but you could they were burned.

If your battery is two or three years old I wouldn't trust it. Summertime heat is hard on batteries.

The grass is always greener . . .
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post #15 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 03:44 PM
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Again, speaking as an auto mechanic
A bad battery is readily tested. When fully charged it must hold the specified voltage under the rated load for the rated time.
Once the car is started a bad battery isn't going to cause it to die. Maybe if there is some weird edge case where the thing is shorted, never seen it.

Looking at some videos on motorcycles, it looks like a 12 volt system also has an alternator and rectifier/regulator expected to put out ~14.2 volts. Some say at idle under load it may not. But certainly at higher RPM.s You found that "At idle the voltage was around 11.2 and dropping. at 5k rpms the DC voltage is 12.5v."

Unfortunately I don't know how to diagnose the various components.
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post #16 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, my coils look brand new still, no char/burn marks at all.

As for the battery, it's under a year old and haven't had any problems with it. Don't even think I've let this one run all the way down at all (That's what killed my previous battery). I still plan on doing the current leakage test later on tonight. I'm fixing to go unplug the battery from the tender so that the surface charge will dissipate; that way I get correct readings.

I figure I'll probably have to wait until my new crank case gasket comes in so that I can preform more tests and offer more information for people to help diagnose the problem. Maybe when I do the AC voltage tests while the bike is running; it'll point to the rectifier being bad even though it passed the diode test. I'd just really like to figure out with almost certainty what is wrong before I go dropping money on a part I end up not needing.

Last edited by Joe5181; 09-06-2015 at 03:49 PM. Reason: more info
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post #17 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 04:07 PM
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Here's another reason batteries go bad.

Short Charging Time. Low state-of-charge can be caused by

short trips that aren’t long enough for the vehicle’s charging

system to recharge the battery. Engine operation of less than 15

or 20 miles and occasional use of a vehicle only a couple of times
per week may not keep the battery charged enough to start the

engine. The vehicle’s charging system will not be able to keep up

with the use of the starter motor and electrical accessories (lights,

ignition, fuel injection) over time. To keep the battery’s capacity

high enough to operate the starter it will have to be charged with

a battery charger when the vehicle is not in use—about once per

month for a Conventional battery depending on temperature. An

AGM battery will discharge at a slower rate than a Conventional

battery and does not need to be recharged as often.

The grass is always greener . . .
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post #18 of 51 Old 09-06-2015, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Hey everyone. I went ahead and did the current leakage test- I've attached pictures of the readings from the multi meter, as well as a picture of the setup. I'm kinda unsure of what reading I should actually go with here, but on the mA 4000 scale it was reading 11, on the micro-amp 400 scale it was only reading 3.7 . So I reckon someone will have to tell me whether it's in spec or not.
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post #19 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 08:04 AM
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I am assuming your meter is working correctly, you moved the red lead to the mA jack on the meter, and the fuses are good in the meter. Does the meter zero on the mA and uA scales with nothing connected? If not, does it zero when you short the test leads together?

For the electronically challenged readers:
mA = milliamperes or one thousandth of an ampere
uA = microampere or one millionth of an ampere.

Max leakage current 0.34 mA = ⅓ mA (⅓ OF 1 mA). OR 340 uA
11 mA is 10 ⅔ mA to much. It is 11,000 uA which would overload the 400 uA scale.

Unplug the regulator/rectifier and see if the reading changes.

The grass is always greener . . .
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post #20 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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That was my issue: I had forgotten to move the red lead to the mA slot. All readings are now within spec; with the rectifier and without. It's now reading anywhere from 27 microamps to 31 microamps; or 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps. I guess I'll be waiting until my gasket comes in to re do the voltage testing on the rectifier; because it seems we've exhausted all of the tests that can be done with the bike torn apart.
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