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post #21 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 11:03 AM
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Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?

For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.
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post #22 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe5181 View Post
...
... but on the mA 4000 scale it was reading 11, on the micro-amp 400 scale it was only reading 3.7 . So I reckon someone will have to tell me whether it's in spec or not.
0.01 A and 11 m/A is, if I did not forget everything, the same.
And in case you have 11m/A, the /A should be out of spec, here.

Question is, how much the clock needs

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post #23 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 01:31 PM
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The 11 mA and 3.7 uA reading was a spurious reading. Not genuine, authentic, or true; not from the claimed, pretended, or proper source; counterfeit.

He didn't have the red meter lead plugged into correct input on his meter.

The 0.34 mA max leakage current is what is specified by Honda. Any more and something is wrong.

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post #24 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gyrotumbler View Post
The 11 mA and 3.7 uA reading was a spurious reading. Not genuine, authentic, or true; not from the claimed, pretended, or proper source; counterfeit.

He didn't have the red meter lead plugged into correct input on his meter.

The 0.34 mA max leakage current is what is specified by Honda. Any more and something is wrong.

It could have helped, to show the total meter.
Btw: Does this meter have only one position, for Amp reading?
I know some, where you have one for the big (A), and another for the smaller (uA). And you have to take care, sometimes the mA reads at the A plugs, sometimes at the uA plugs.

If 0.37 mA is right, then 'his' 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps is not, right?

How good/old is the battery of the meter?

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post #25 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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From my understanding: my current leakage reading is correct; as it is under the allowable max. As for the battery in the meter; is is new within the past 3 months. Is my reading similar to anybody elses?

I'll be sure to document my setup better next time; that would have helped me to avoid my first superfluous readings.
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post #26 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 03:02 PM
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Mine was like .07mA or something like that when I checked mine I could be wrong but it was well under the currant leakage.

Did your dash die when it stalled? When my stator went out the dash died first than the bike would run rough than die.
My resistance readings were all over the place on the stator though plus it was burnt so I could tell it went out.

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post #27 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxSteel View Post
Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?

For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.

The current leakage is in the troubleshooting guide as one way to test the regulator/rectifier. If you get high leakage current reading you unplug the regulator/rectifier, if leakage current drops below maximum of .34 mA you have a bad regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier can also go bad and show no leakage current if an internal component "opens", or blows like a fuse would.

A 12 volt test won't light at these small currents. I have a small pocket size test light that I bought at a BMW dealer and it draws 250 mA's or 1/4 amp.
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Last edited by gyrotumbler; 09-07-2015 at 07:55 PM.
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post #28 of 51 Old 09-07-2015, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBR-250-R View Post
It could have helped, to show the total meter.
Btw: Does this meter have only one position, for Amp reading?
I know some, where you have one for the big (A), and another for the smaller (uA). And you have to take care, sometimes the mA reads at the A plugs, sometimes at the uA plugs.

If 0.37 mA is right, then 'his' 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps is not, right?

How good/old is the battery of the meter?
The Fluke 87 has two current input jacks 10 amp jack with 10 amp fuse for over current protection, and mA/uA jack fused for what ever the highest mA range is.

If you mean 0.34 mA maximum leakage current is right. Then his current readings are well below the maximum. Honda doesn't specify a "typical" or normal leakage current reading, only maximum allowable leakage current.

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post #29 of 51 Old 09-08-2015, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gyrotumbler View Post
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If you mean 0.34 mA maximum leakage current is right. Then his current readings are well below the maximum. Honda doesn't specify a "typical" or normal leakage current reading, only maximum allowable leakage current.
Right, it's only about 1/10 of the given 0.34 mA by Honda.
The number, Honda is tellin us, is not really a leaking.
It's a max. total of the specifyed load of the closed current, that the bike will use, if off.
The watch, which is a total digital unit here, is one part of it.
And this closed current varies only a little, because of the tolerances of electric components.

Out of my understanding, only 10% of that said 0.34 mA is to little.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe5181 View Post
...
It's now reading anywhere from 27 microamps to 31 microamps; or 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps
.....
Even half of it, only, would make it suspicious!
So I would check, if the meter reads right/ is good enough, for the job.

As smaller the range, as more the influence of the tolerance/quality, of the meter.

What is the reading from the batterie, if fully charged with a charger, yesterday, and testet, today.
And how is that changing, putting it back in the bike and only turning the key for some minutes?
How does it restore, after the load?
You bike can't charge the batt, if there is a cell down! 12.5V on 5k rpm looks to me, that maybe 1 cell is down, already

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Last edited by CBR-250-R; 09-08-2015 at 12:56 AM.
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post #30 of 51 Old 09-08-2015, 06:32 AM
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pop the cover off the meter and check the fuses just to make sure that you are really getting a reading. 30ma is nothing. A key off draw isn't going make the bike die once it is running any way. Maybe get an ammeter clamp and rig it so you can see your meter while you are riding around to see what is going on.


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