I checked mine, it also measures 27 microamps and .03 milliamps

I checked it with two different meters.

I don't remember the dash dying first but it might have. I just remember the bike shutting off while it was sitting there idling. And it wouldn't crank after that; just the dreaded crackling of a low-power battery trying to spin the starter.

I'm leaning more towards the regulagor/rectifier being bad now; the stator is measuring within spec at all times and has no continuity to ground. It also doesn't look burnt at all. I'm just waiting for the gasket to come in so I can put the stator back together and do more tests on the R/R with the bike running.
@gyrotumbler thanks for checking your measuremenrs. It would appear that my leakage is just fine then.

When you get it put together measure the battery voltage first without key on. Fully charged AGM battery should be around 13 V.

When I turn my key on mine drops to about 12.2 V.

When I start my engine I get 14.2 V. Mine don't change much from idle to 5k rpm

The charging voltage should be higher than battery voltage but lower than 15.5 volts.

In the picture of your battery it looks like some accessory wires are hooked to the battery cable. Battery tender pigtail? something else?

I installed one of these voltmeters on my bike not too long ago. I highly recommend them. I cut the two mounting tab off and velcroed it to the upper cowl:

From earlier posts, It seems that the charging system is malfunctioning, and a leak test failure can help isolate the cause to a bad rectifier.

Did anyone ask how old the battery is? These little things only reliably last for a few years.
I would guess it is either the battery, which is more than three years old, you should replace anyway, or the RR.
I assume you checked for shorts? Disconnect any accessories?

Just wanted to update everyone:
Gasket for the left crankcase just came in today, so I put everything back together.
Stator resistance is within spec when cold, so I turned on the bike. the idle voltage was around 12.6V but when the engine is rev'd to 5k RPMs, the battery voltage reads 14.18.

While it was running at one point the idle voltage went up to 14v, but then dropped back down and it hasn't done it since. I didn't touch the bike before, or while this was happening, it just appeared and disappeared on its on. I find this very unusual.
I'm fixing to take the bike for a short ride to see if anything changes after it is up to full operating temp.
As per the service manual, this is what I have checked thus far today;
Battery voltage was at 12.96 before cranking
Battery voltage was at 12.5 just after starting
Current leakage test passes, it is still at 0.03 miliamps (well below the allowable maximum)
stator resistances are all around 0.6 ohms (at the back end of the 3P connector coming from the stator)
voltage @ the R/R measure exactly what the battery does
I'll double check the resistances @ the R/R for the stator but they were the same as at the back of the 3P connector to the best of my knowledge
Thanks for the help that everyone has given thus far!
By the way, the battery tested good from a load test in the past week, and the battery is less then 1 year old. Thanks!

Took the bike for a quick 15ish minute ride. Resistances for the stator are still in spec, around 0.6 ohms at the back of the 3p connector and @ the rectifier.
Voltage at the rectifier says around 12.6 or so at idle and 14.1ish @ 5k RPMs.

as a small update: the voltage picks up to 14V right around 2.5k RPMs; would this be usual? I'm wondering now if there wasn't just a small short or loose connection that has been fixed during the course of me messing with everything. I'm half tempted just to put it all back together; purchase a voltmeter like @gyrotumbler has suggested and then ride happy. However, I'll wait to see what you all say first.

By the way; I also just did AC output tests on the Stator. This test isn't in the service manual, but was suggested on here, and through other threads.
for phase 1 and 2, the idle voltage is about 12-14 AC V and when the rpm goes up to 2.5k, it goes to 14-16 AC V each.
For the last phase however, the AC output is only 2.6V at idle and actually goes down when increasing the rpm. Does this give a sure indication that the stator is bad? It looked absolutely fine when I had pulled it out, though I know that really doesn't always mean anything.

If the regulator/rectifier is still hooked up while making the ac readings one of the rectifiers could be breaking down under the voltage load causing the low voltage reading.

Rectifiers or diodes are famous for doing this.

I'll try and do the AC voltage test again sometime this week to determine if it is the R/R then; if so that would be awesome! I'll post back later on this week and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the input @gyrotumbler and everyone else! by the way; I ended up purchasing a voltmeter like you had linked to (as a bonus; my bike has green underglow so the display will match that @ night). What did you splice the positive to? Lights or ignition or something?