Empty Coolant Reserve Tank - Page 2 - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #11 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 01:40 AM
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7 km is not that far, unless the ambient temperature is hot. Is it?

I could see you getting home without the engine seizing on you. Too bad you had to ride it back to the dealership. That may hurt you in your dealings with Honda India. Good job taking what must have seemed like forever to get it back there safely. Although I can't imagine that one can run a liquid-cooled engine very long with no coolant and do some damage.
Two bars without coolant is TOTALLY different than two bars with coolant.


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post #12 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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I left home before the sun gets hot and the city traffic gets stagnant (before 09:00 AM, approx. 30 degree celcius / 86 degree fahrenheit ). The odo reading was 32 km (I had to fill fuel and visit one of my relative on the way to home after the bike delivery) when I was taking it back to the dealership today morning. Hope everything turns out good, and that's the only option left now. Thanks.
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post #13 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by don'tpanic View Post
7 km is not that far, unless the ambient temperature is hot. Is it?

I could see you getting home without the engine seizing on you. Too bad you had to ride it back to the dealership. That may hurt you in your dealings with Honda India. Good job taking what must have seemed like forever to get it back there safely. Although I can't imagine that one can run a liquid-cooled engine very long with no coolant and do some damage.
Two bars without coolant is TOTALLY different than two bars with coolant.
Just got back the bike from the dealership and reached my office which is 5 km from the dealership. The temp gauge has stopped at 3 bars and its not going further, I hope the overheating issue has come to an end. But not sure whether all these have already done something bad to the engine which will be proven later after some years.
And still I am not sure about the coolant level, the dealership people told they have filled it. But still I cant see any levels in the reserve tank like I see in the rear brake oil reservoir. Can anyone post a picture of how it looks normally with ideal level of coolant in it. Searched goolge for it, but no use.
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post #14 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 10:07 AM
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You need to figure out how to remove the radiator cap. The overflow bottle is part of the system, but the level in the radiator is much more important.

The level should be up to the top of the opening when checked cold. Do not remove the cap if the engine is warm.

This should have been done before riding again. You can add distilled water to the system to bring the level up, it will dilute the proper concentration will do no damage.

Check the radiator before riding again.
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post #15 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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You need to figure out how to remove the radiator cap. The overflow bottle is part of the system, but the level in the radiator is much more important.

The level should be up to the top of the opening when checked cold. Do not remove the cap if the engine is warm.

This should have been done before riding again. You can add distilled water to the system to bring the level up, it will dilute the proper concentration will do no damage.

Check the radiator before riding again.
Thanks, are you saying to check the coolant by removing the radiator cap? Should I remove any of the cowls for that? Have seen in the usef manual, never to fill coolant through the radiator cap, why they saying so, any precautions to take before doing it , other than letting the engine go cool down?
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post #16 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 02:23 PM
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Thanks, are you saying to check the coolant by removing the radiator cap? Should I remove any of the cowls for that? Have seen in the usef manual, never to fill coolant through the radiator cap, why they saying so, any precautions to take before doing it , other than letting the engine go cool down?
Yes - remove the cap and confirm the level is up to the top.

Not sure what needs to be removed in order to access the cap, but the overflow bottle isn't going to tell you what you need to know - you need to fill the radiator first then fill the bottle.

Other than letting it cool there shouldn't be any issues. One of my bikes has a retainer screw on the side of the cap that needs to be removed before you can unscrew the cap.
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post #17 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 04:36 PM
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Look up the front of the engine at the radiator. You should be able to see the cap to see which fairing panel needs to be removed.

I would imagine that the right side main fairing panel will have to be removed.

Establish a clean, soft place to lay the panel.

You will need good hex-point (Allen) tools to do this. The fastener heads are soft and an ill-fitting tool will ruin them.
There are four total. Two on the side, one up under the headlight (very hard to see), and one on the inside of the lower front of the fairing. This last one I always accessed from the opposite side of the bike.

With those four screw removed, you pull on the fairing panel. There are two or three points going into rubber grommets that come out.
Then you need to unhook the turn signal wire, and carefully unplug the two turn signal connectors. Lay the panel aside.


I think that topping up the cooling system should always be done at the overflow bottle.
Initial filling will need to be done from the radiator.

Even then, the system needs to emptied of ALL air! I don't know how to do this.


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Last edited by don'tpanic; 05-18-2017 at 04:42 PM.
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post #18 of 27 Old 05-18-2017, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don'tpanic View Post
Look up the front of the engine at the radiator. You should be able to see the cap to see which fairing panel needs to be removed.

I would imagine that the right side main fairing panel will have to be removed.

Establish a clean, soft place to lay the panel.

You will need good hex-point (Allen) tools to do this. The fastener heads are soft and an ill-fitting tool will ruin them.
There are four total. Two on the side, one up under the headlight (very hard to see), and one on the inside of the lower front of the fairing. This last one I always accessed from the opposite side of the bike.

With those four screw removed, you pull on the fairing panel. There are two or three points going into rubber grommets that come out.
Then you need to unhook the turn signal wire, and carefully unplug the two turn signal connectors. Lay the panel aside.


I think that topping up the cooling system should always be done at the overflow bottle.
Initial filling will need to be done from the radiator.

Even then, the system needs to emptied of ALL air! I don't know how to do this.
Wow, the new guy should really thank you for the step-by-step.

To bleed air from the system, the workshop manual says to blip the engine briskly 3-4 times. That's pretty much it. I have done it as such, and seems to work pretty well.
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post #19 of 27 Old 05-19-2017, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don'tpanic View Post
Look up the front of the engine at the radiator. You should be able to see the cap to see which fairing panel needs to be removed.

I would imagine that the right side main fairing panel will have to be removed.

Establish a clean, soft place to lay the panel.

You will need good hex-point (Allen) tools to do this. The fastener heads are soft and an ill-fitting tool will ruin them.
There are four total. Two on the side, one up under the headlight (very hard to see), and one on the inside of the lower front of the fairing. This last one I always accessed from the opposite side of the bike.

With those four screw removed, you pull on the fairing panel. There are two or three points going into rubber grommets that come out.
Then you need to unhook the turn signal wire, and carefully unplug the two turn signal connectors. Lay the panel aside.


I think that topping up the cooling system should always be done at the overflow bottle.
Initial filling will need to be done from the radiator.

Even then, the system needs to emptied of ALL air! I don't know how to do this.
Thanks for the spoon feeding. That's how I really needed the info. Thanks a lot.
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post #20 of 27 Old 05-19-2017, 02:36 PM
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I forgot to add, of the 4 screws that hold the fairing panel on, at least ONE of them will be different than the others. It will have a shoulder on it.
Pay attention to which screws came from where.

I THINK that the one with the shoulder is the one hidden up under the headlight.

What kind of tools did your bike come with? It should have the hex key necessary to get than panel off.


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