Problems with battery draining. - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #1 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Problems with battery draining.

My little CBR has been giving me trouble if I haven't started it in a while. By a while I mean if I haven't driven it in a week, it's pretty much completely dead. I can roll it down a hill and pop the clutch, it starts up. I drive it, shut it off, and it starts right up, but if it is more than a few days in between starts, I may or may not be able to start it. Sometimes if the bike has been ridden only a few days ago, the starter tries to crank. Sometimes (like today) if it's been a week or more, it doesn't crank. Lights come on and power goes blank when I try to start it. I can't figure out exactly what's wrong but I think something is sucking the battery power... or my battery is just crap. Once about 6 months ago I left the lights on for 30 minutes or so and had to recharge the battery. After that it was still fine. The not starting bit started 2 months ago after an interstate move. I didn't drive it for 3 weeks and it was as dead as can be. After that, I've had problems. I didn't leave the lights on or anything like that. After the 1st time, I always check to make sure the engine is shut off and the lights are off. I have a LED system hard wired and a P3 brake lights wired in as well. The problem happened long after the LEDs were wired in but before I did the P3 upgrade, so I don't think the wiring we did was faulty. My guess is running the battery down, and leaving it in the cold rainy weather isn't helping. Would a new battery fix it? If so, will a bigger battery fit? size?

2012 CBR250RA all black w/ ABS, blackened muffler heat guard, P3 brake flashers TS+.
Green: reflective rim decals, LED lighting, custom "to punish and enslave..." lettering.

Riding gear: Icon Contra Mil-Spec Hi-Viz & HJC CL-16 helmet

Planned: Upgrade to 2017 FZ-09 w/ ABS

My MPG via fuelly:

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Last edited by atakacs; 03-09-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 09:05 PM
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Your extra non-stock lighting could be drawing down your battery. Even though the alternator is sending current to the battery when the bike is running, if the alternator output is significantly less than what all the electrics are pulling from the battery, you'll end up with a net loss. That said, your battery may no longer be able to hold a full charge, due to the repeated discharges. You can take the battery to almost any auto parts store and have it load tested to be sure, before you shell out $$ for a new one. If you do end up replacing it, you could see if a YTX9L-BS is the same physical size as the stock YTX7L-BS. Still, the alternator is only going to be able to put out 0.34kW/5000 rpm, no matter what battery you can stuff under the seat.
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post #3 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 09:17 PM
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left the key in mine overnight twice in a year, both times flattening battery..
both times clutch started her no problem then rode for half an hour
parking on incline, clutch started her each time for about a week
by then when i tried the starter she fired up immediately..

she does get ridden every day tho so that factor absent for me..
altho previous hondas have had to sit for periods incl weeks
before being ridden [navy] incl cold areas, with no problems..

intended to bet a battery tender or suchlike but shes gone so well
so far just by clutch starting for a week with no problems thereafter
that i havnt gotten around to the tender.. after swapping out a
lv slip-on for a weight saving of nearly 14lb over stock im interested
in lightweight anti-gravity lithium batteries, which save around 7 +
lb over stock high over bikes c of g.. havnt taken the plunge yet,
but this was an appealing alternative while my battery was
still under suspicion..

probably wouldnt hurt to have your battery tested..
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post #4 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 09:44 PM
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LA battery weight

My OEM lead-acid battery weighs 5 lbs., so you will not reduce weight by
7 lbs. if you switch to Li-iron.
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post #5 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 09:54 PM
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Plugging into a Battery Tender between rides, especially if it is going to sit for awhile, would be a good idea for a bike with non-stock lighting. The Battery Tenders come with a 2P pigtail connector that stays connected to the battery, so you can plug the charger in without having to break out any tools... just route the 2P pigtail connector so you can access it under the pillion seat.
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post #6 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 10:00 PM
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atakacs,
This may help. You will need to buy or borrow a digital volt meter (cheap to buy, and invaluable).
Check the battery voltage at rest - 12 hour or more with no use or charger.
12.2v = not bad. 12.4v = good. 12.6v excellent.
Also, check your charging system with the engine running at above idle. It should read 14.2 to 14.4 volts. If not, try revving higher, but no use going above 5k.
Amazon will sell you a new 7ah lead acid OEM type battery for about $25 shipped.

Good luck.

Rick
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post #7 of 30 Old 03-09-2013, 11:11 PM
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Another thing to check is if you have a "current leak" when the bike is fully off.

-Set your voltmeter to measure the current flow (mAmps)
-Remove the main fuse
-put one lead on one side of the fuse holder and the other lead on the other, (the polarity does not matter for this test)
With the bike fully off you should have zero reading. Anything higher could indicate that something is draining the battery.

Also note that the battery looses a lot of charge capacity even after one time it was drained. My money is on that you need a new battery.

Last edited by Giko; 03-09-2013 at 11:14 PM.
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post #8 of 30 Old 03-10-2013, 01:22 AM
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re battery weights, '7lb' an average fm anti-gravity info page..
point being not specific weight but the fact of weight loss..

cbr250r stock battery = 5.4lb, shorei lfx141-b512 = 1.5lb
thus a weight reduction, with that shorei battery 3.9lb
depending on which one you use, the 250-suitable
anti-gravity battery claims 1lb weight..

anyway, point being the option if battery has carked it
of installing a new lighter modern one saving 4lb
high on the bikes centerline..
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post #9 of 30 Old 03-10-2013, 05:29 AM
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My battery started going dead as soon as the temp dropped into the 40s. Got worse in the 30s and almost completely dead in the 20s. Needless to say, it's been on a Battery Tender now. But these stock batteries are crap in the cold. Then again, I know two guys who have this bike and their batteries went dead in warm weather so..maybe this brand is just crappy to begin with?

It's not about how much power you have, it's about how much you can actually use.
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post #10 of 30 Old 03-10-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roberthood View Post
My battery started going dead as soon as the temp dropped into the 40s. Got worse in the 30s and almost completely dead in the 20s. Needless to say, it's been on a Battery Tender now. But these stock batteries are crap in the cold. Then again, I know two guys who have this bike and their batteries went dead in warm weather so..maybe this brand is just crappy to begin with?
I haven't had any problems starting in colder temps with the stock Yuasa battery. The Yuasa brand has been around for a long time, and has been the OEM battery supplier for all the Japanese motorcycle brands. Obviously, they can have a small percentage of faulty batteries that slip through the final QC process. Maybe I've been lucky, I haven't gotten a bad battery yet and have bought more than a few over the years.

That said, it is certainly possible that your battery was not fully charged by the dealer when they did the pre-delivery service. These batteries are shipped dry, with a separate acid pack. Once the battery is filled, it must be fully charged... one would assume that any dealer would know this, and charge the battery for the required amount of time. It would not surprise me if some dealers short change the amount of time on the charger in the rush to get bikes ready to go.

One of the first things I did when I got my CBR home, was to put the battery on the charger to verify that it had a full charge.
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