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switch to full synthetic oil

Switching to Full Synthetic Oil

32K views 94 replies 31 participants last post by  artstenn 
#1 ·
always used the honda stock oil but thinking about switching to full synthetic

wanted to read more about the pros and cons , brands and how to properly make the switch ... thanks in advance :cool:
 
#2 ·
The synthetic oil thing has been beaten to death several times on this forum with no true answer, just heated arguments. Use the search feature and you will find numerous threads.
It is almost like which color farkel makes your bike handle better and go faster. Don't buy red ones they turn pink in the sun.

You will find much more information by using google and the internet rather than just this forum.
 
#5 ·
With water cooling, the CBR250R has little need for synthetic oil, imho.

I used synthetic in my Buell XB9S to help that air-cooled beast run cooler, and for that it worked as advertised.
 
#7 ·
If you decide to switch to full synthetic, and have always used Honda stock oil, I would think using Honda full synthetic oil would be a decent choice. You would be sure there won't be any additives that your clutch wouldn't like.

As long as the bike has gone past its break in period you can make the switch any time you want to change your oil and filter. In the early days of full synthetic there was a fear of mixing the two types of oil together but there is no problem like that now (they do mix together and don't separate). Just drain, refill and you are ready to go. If you find you don't like it you can always go back, no problem.
 
#8 ·
I'm using Honda's full synthetic 10W30. I've had very good luck with it in my cars...My sis got 440,000 miles from a 4.3V6 GMC Jimmy...I've got 230,000 miles on a 3.8 V6 Chev Lumina...etc...I didn't use it until I changed the break in oil and used regular Honda 10W 30 for the first...It came out kinda thin and appeared worn out after 4,000 miles...The first synthetic change I ran for about 7,700 miles and it came out with what appeared the same viscosity it went in with. NO WAY would I run regular oli for 8,000 miles. So unless you just enjoy changing the oil more often, I'd suggest synthetic
 
#9 ·
Meh...I switched to synthetic Rotella T in my Ninja250R when I had it and didn't notice a bit of difference other than it being more expensive.
Since I change the oil pre-storage every fall and don't rack up that many miles during the riding season here anyway it makes little sense for me to switch to synthetic in my CBR.
 
#10 ·
Synthetic has better shear stability. If going for the factory recommended 8k oil changes, I wouldn't run anything else but full synthetic. It holds its viscosity longer and through harder conditions. But our bikes are pretty mild, so I think it'll be hard to notice a difference by the seat of the pants feel.

I did notice that around 4-5k the honda dino oil would start to give me harder, notchier shifts. Changed to Rotella T6, and it's buttery smooth. Bike seems to love it.
 
#18 ·
You can't miss with Rotella T oil. I don't like synthetic oil for high rpm motorcycles,
too many bad news postings with the words "I use full synthetic oil" for me to jump on the bandwagon.
If I ever did switch to Synthetic / blend oil it would be Rotella.
So, every 4K miles / year I do an oil & filter change at a cost of about $10 US.
If I rode more miles per season / year I would do a mid way change (oil only) for
a cost of under $5 .
It's so easy, and 100% effective.

IR
 
#19 · (Edited)
You can't miss with Rotella T oil. I don't like synthetic oil for high rpm motorcycles,
too many bad news postings with the words "I use full synthetic oil" for me to jump on the bandwagon.
If I ever did switch to Synthetic / blend oil it would be Rotella.
So, every 4K miles / year I do an oil & filter change at a cost of about $10 US.
If I rode more miles per season / year I would do a mid way change (oil only) for
a cost of under $5 .
It's so easy, and 100% effective.

IR
Agree - Rotella T 10W-30 is a better oil than GN-4.

Disagree - High RPM cycles benefit as much or more from synthetic oils than any other cycle or engine. High RPMs mean more heat, and synthetic oils deal with extreme heat (and cold) better than conventional oils.

A good conventional oil is fine, but synthetics do have advantages. The advantages are more significant in extreme conditions and less significant in normal riding conditions.

EDIT: I should add that because the CBR doesn't hold much oil, synthetic is even a better idea. Synthetic doesn't get you a longer change interval - just more protection.
 
#21 ·
Could I just use an oil like this: Shell Helix HX7 AJ 10W30 5L

It's $70 for the GN4 + filter pack from Honda here. Thinking may be able to buy a 5L bottle of oil, and just order filters.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Hmm. $22.55 for 950ml then delivery. So $45 for two, then delivery. Then oil filter and crush washer.

GN4 kit seems cheaper.
 
#24 ·
just used silkolene 10w40 semi-synthetic
use mineral oil esp during run in period..
any motorcycle specific oil will do
most important is oil condition
change according to honda schedule
more often if trips are usually short
or other stress factors such as heat..

lots of info on oils via google..
 
#25 ·
Amsoil is good stuff, but hardly worth the price or the hype it has. Rotella T6 is a cheap, fully synthetic oil that will outperform other overly-hyped and overly marketed oils. I can get a gallon of the stuff at Walmart cheaper than I can get a quart of Amsoil.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Can't really find Rotella T6 in Australia. Will keep looking for pricing.

Mobil 1 10W-30 is $120 for 6x1 quart bottles.

Penrite 4L of 10W-30 4 stroke is $76.

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#30 ·
To me its a waste of money, yes it breaks down slower but it gets dirty just as fast as conventional oil. In my experience after running syn in the automobile world they tend to burn it. Personally I run shell rotella t in everything.
Rotella T is good, better in some ways than synthetic Rotella T6, but with the temps you guys are having (did I see -25 or something? We were -22 the other morning in the Madison area) a synthetic 5W or 0W would help cold cranking and reduce start-up wear. A conventional 10W is just not good enough below 0 IMO.
 
#31 ·
Coldest we get here would be around 20c. Tropical Far North Queensland. Might just bite the bullet and get the kit. Was hoping to find an oil in 5L then just buy filter and crush washer separately.

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#32 ·
I changed out the supplied oil at 1,500 miles with Mobil 1 4T racing oil. Over the years I have become a huge fan of Mobil 1 oil for the cars and motorcycles. Yep it's expensive for oil, I pay $10 per quart at O'Reilly's but hell it only holds 1.5 quarts every 8,000 miles so the expense isn't an issue. Since the 4T oil is NOT rated energy conserving it works well with clutch mechanisms in motorcycles.
 
#33 ·
#34 ·
Nah mate, it's to light, you will just burn it off.
Penrite 10 tenths is very good, full synthetic but not cheap. Is it worth the money? If your hard on the bike I say yes but Dino oil does a great job just change it more often. It's only 1.5L of oil for a change anyway & doesn't take long to do.
It comes down to how much you want to spend, I change the oil every 1000km, yes that is excessive but I get the oil at cost & when I drain it it looks like new, if I wanted to I could re use it in the mower lol.
 
#35 ·
I was thinking of just buying a 4 or 5L 10w-40 for ~$60. Then each oil change just buying the filters. Otherwise its $70 for 3L GN4 and filter/washer in the kit.

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#39 ·
I was going to buy the change kit. At $70 for oil, filter and washer I figured I could buy 4-5L in another brand, and just buy filters which would work out cheaper.

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#42 ·
mate the kit is convenience in a box
with honda oil, filter, washer, etc..

but [imo] you can use any motorcycle specific
oil [10w30 -40 best] and probably any filter
that fits.. main factor is use and changing..

for really high sustained temp or only ever
short ie, not high oil temp to burn out
moisture etc trips probably synthetic
would be best..

but mate, its your bike and your peace of mind,
so what are these worth to you and how much
extra are you willing to pay for maintaining
them to your satisfaction..

bottom line tho [imo] dont worry [!]
motorcycle specific oil, regular changes..
 
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