Chain Cleaning & Lubrication How To Video - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
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post #1 of 28 Old 08-18-2014, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Chain Cleaning & Lubrication How To Video

Just me on my first time cleaning and lubricating the chain on my 2013 Honda CBR250RA. Credits go out to numerous YouTube videos before this with tips on how to do it. I used kerosene instead of WD40.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99W7wp4y04c
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post #2 of 28 Old 08-18-2014, 12:07 PM
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Nice video. Well made. Perhaps it's the 3rd cup of coffee I just finished, but you should allow double-speed playback. The video goes a bit slow. :-)
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post #3 of 28 Old 08-18-2014, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Nice video. Well made. Perhaps it's the 3rd cup of coffee I just finished, but you should allow double-speed playback. The video goes a bit slow. :-)
For sure man. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
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post #4 of 28 Old 08-18-2014, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbrady View Post
Just me on my first time cleaning and lubricating the chain on my 2013 Honda CBR250RA.
Not a bad video. I use kerosene too. I usually take the front sprocket cover off too and clean all the gunk out of there.

I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but your chain seems fairly tight, doesn't look like the usual 25-35mm of freeplay.
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post #5 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
Not a bad video. I use kerosene too. I usually take the front sprocket cover off too and clean all the gunk out of there.

I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but your chain seems fairly tight, doesn't look like the usual 25-35mm of freeplay.
Thanks for the tip about cleaning the front sprocket too. I'll make sure I do that next time. I did measure the freeplay from 3 different locations of the bottom chain, and I thought it was within 1 inch. I'll check again next weekend.

Thanks for watching!
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post #6 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 01:01 PM
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Interesting. I haven't been removing the hugger when cleaning/lubing my chain. I'll try that next time. That should also make cleaning the wheel easier.
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post #7 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 01:04 PM
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You don't have to remove it, but you can get the chain a bit cleaner and get the lube on more evenly. I usually don't take it off, but I'm also usually in a hurry and pressed for time. My grunge brush does most of the dirty work for me.

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post #8 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cbrlocal View Post
You don't have to remove it, but you can get the chain a bit cleaner and get the lube on more evenly. I usually don't take it off, but I'm also usually in a hurry and pressed for time. My grunge brush does most of the dirty work for me.
You ever notice the grunge brush screwing up orings? Because I've had an RK chain for ~4k miles and had at least 6 orings come out already, and when I contacted RK about it they were telling me it was from the brush.
Said they would replace it for me, but I had to do a bunch of crap and wasn't worth it. (Remove, mail it, wait with no chain, get the new chain 2 weeks later, then install. With classes starting, no way) Said they would sell one at a significant discount, which was $42 + shipping and its $58 + free shipping on Amazon so yeah wasn't much of a discount.

But yeah, I think that brush is a little stiff now I think about it, I don't think ill use it again on a new chain. My original chain also died from orings coming out, which now I think about it was around when I bought the brush.


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post #9 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 05:00 PM
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I used a grunge brush on my old chain which I replaced due to orings coming off. I have since decided to change tactics and use a soft toothbrush instead. So far so good. Using the toothbrush may take longer, but it allows for more precision.
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post #10 of 28 Old 08-19-2014, 09:36 PM
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If a brush isn't destroying your o-rings it's pushing crap between the o-ring and link. This is a bad thing! The primary lubricant in your chain is in an area that should not be exposed to the world. Compromising an o-ring is compromising the integrity of the chain. Keep in mind that a chain is only as good as it's weakest link.

I skip removal of the chain guards all together and pull the rear tire. That gives me enough slack that I can drop the chain into a paint trough and have more than 1/2 of the chain in the working area at a time. I'll wash down the exposed chain with kerosene and give it a good wipe with a rag. A visual inspection as I work through it will let me know if there are big bits of debris I might want to work out. If there is debris a simple manipulation of the chain should expose it, allowing it to be wiped off without touching the o-rings.
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