Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New Hampshire
Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts
Its really super simple! The tools you will need is a Large Flathead Screwdriver, Metric Allen Key set, Metric Socket Kit, and Locktite (blue should be fine). The ABS caliper is slightly different than the Non-ABS one. For the ABS on there is a small hex head (8mm possibly) at the bottom of the caliper. This is a pin that goes through the bottom of the pads. Its gonna be torqued on and locktited so it should be pretty hard to get off. but just loosen the bolt so it easy to remove after you take the caliper off. The non-ABS version has a flat head cap screw over the retaining pin so that needs to be removed first. Underneath youll find a hexed recess for an allen key. Atleast for me it was very hard to loosen. The next step is to take the caliper off so now use a socket to remove the two bolts that connect the caliper bracket to the fork leg. Now before removing the pads you want to press the pistons back in. The old pads can be used to protect the caliper and pistons. Take your screw driver and wedge it in between the pads and push the pistons back in as far as you can. If you dont do this it will be impossible get the caliper back on the disk with the new pads. Also if you cant them to go back all the way try removing the cover on the reservoir. Once thats done you can fully remove the retaining pin and take the pads out. Put the new pads in and reinstall the pin with a little locktite on the threads. I had trouble with getting the pin to go through the holes on the new pads so be wary of that. I believe it was just because of the casting being slighty off. Slip the the caliper over the rotor and put in the mounting bolts back in but DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM, leave them slightly loose so the caliper can move a bit and remember to put on some locktite! Now pump the brake lever till the pads are touching the rotor and you have pressure in the lever. While hold pressure on the lever, tighten the mounting bolts. This will help center and align the caliper properly. It will also help reduce any scrubbing from the pads while you are not braking. Now thats everything is on, go through and tighten everything fully. I dont know the torque specs, I just go by feel. You could probably find them if you really want to. The last thing is bed in the pads to the rotor. For the first few times you brake it wont stop you very well. Go to a local parking lot or empty back road and like 10 hard brakings, youll feel the pads start to grab better after a few times. After that you should be all good!
Is a pretty good video and it also shows cleaning the pistons which I did forget to mention.
2012 CBR250R Black
Racetech springs and emulators, Yamaha R6 shock, Yoshi Rearset Risers, Babyface GP Shift adapter, EBC HH Sintered Front and Rear Brake Pads, CBR600RR pegs, Mirror delete with CBR600RR block offs, Ebay Bar-end mirror, Red LED dash, The2Wheels levers, Homemade Fender Eliminator, LED Blinkers, Tank pads and grips, CBR300R seat, Spider Peak red Grips, Vortex Clip ons, DFC, Delkevic 14' Slip on, Spiegler Braided Front Brake Line,Black Rims
Soon to be mods:
Last edited by CBR Blaize; 04-23-2017 at 03:39 PM.