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Discussion Starter #1
I often have a slight fiddle getting the bike into first gear from neutral, and sometimes end up having to rock the bike backwards and forwards to get it.
Where it is a drag is at big intersections where i can have up to a 2minute wait and prefer to drop it into neutral and relax. I have on occasion stomped a little bit but it seems crude.

Gonna go in for first service soon so should I get them to look at that, or is everyone else having the same fiddle? Just the average synchro mesh thing?

I find it kind of surprising seeing as how easy and smooth it is to shift the gears up and down otherwise.
 

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You don't have to do the rocking thing, just let up on the clutch a bit, it should slide right in. This is fairly normal.

Also, experienced riders (and safety course instructors) will say that it's a bad idea to be in neutral at any time in traffic. You always want the ability to move quickly and have an escape route should something large and metal come hurtling toward you.
 

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Its because your rolling back while in neutral. Even a 1/4 inch. Just roll the bike foreward about 6 inches and shift down.
 

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been a whole lot of people with this problem..if not every single one of us to one extent or another.....i have seen this question posted in here time and time again in the last 6 months....rocking back and forth makes you look noobish if not semi retarded...but it works......
i prefer to more silent-cooler looking way of doing it...just let out ur clutch about 1/3 of the way while stepping down on the gear shifter...will pop right in....i still do this regularly cuz it does it alot...like every single time i roll it out of the garage while started right before a ride...

going to 1st while moving works to ....i try my best to drop to 1st gear while still moving if im coming up at a red light or stop sign to avoid that problem while on the road
 

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I have seen this on most bikes.

On the cbr I just double or triple pump the clutch, Just squeeze it fast a few times lol
 

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Into first from neutral? sure you are not doing the 'coast to a stop from higher gears' I read about so much on here?

*ps there is a gear position indicator stamped on the front sprocket folks. :)
 

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This isn't unusual as we're seeing, but it should get better with time and miles. If it just won't go in - you're not getting impatient and not letting the revs drop? - try shifting into second, then go. But, this is a new Honda, if adjustment doesn't fix it, there's something wrong.
 

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Does it wear out the clutch more if we pulled it in all the time at stop lights? I know with stick shifts cars its best to leave it in neutral to prevent clutch wear.

However, I do understand the safety aspect of always being ready to fly away just in case.
 

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Does it wear out the clutch more if we pulled it in all the time at stop lights? I know with stick shifts cars its best to leave it in neutral to prevent clutch wear.

However, I do understand the safety aspect of always being ready to fly away just in case.
You are supposed to hold the clutch at a stop in first gear.

These don't have the same synchro gear mesh that a car does so it's normal to have to move the gears a bit to get them to mesh up at a stop.
 

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I often have a slight fiddle getting the bike into first gear from neutral, and sometimes end up having to rock the bike backwards and forwards to get it.
Where it is a drag is at big intersections where i can have up to a 2minute wait and prefer to drop it into neutral and relax. I have on occasion stomped a little bit but it seems crude.

Gonna go in for first service soon so should I get them to look at that, or is everyone else having the same fiddle? Just the average synchro mesh thing?

I find it kind of surprising seeing as how easy and smooth it is to shift the gears up and down otherwise.
If the gears are not moving and are not lined up, it will not easily slip into 1st. In neutral, let the clutch out and pull it back in, then immediately engage 1st. This gets the parts turning and allow easy engagement. This is a normal situation for any motorcycle transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If the gears are not moving and are not lined up, it will not easily slip into 1st. In neutral, let the clutch out and pull it back in, then immediately engage 1st. This gets the parts turning and allow easy engagement. This is a normal situation for any motorcycle transmission.
Actually it's a little harder than most bikes I have had (mostly bigger singles and twins) with the exception of the old CB100 I had about 20 years ago

But @spdklls suggestion of letting the clutch out a third works like a charm. Dang, no why didn't I figure that out my self? Guess the reflex stomp thing blindsided me :) Thanks for that tip.
 

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After 1400 or 1500 miles everything has become smoother. I couldn't tell you if the bike got better or I got used to it.
 

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Relax, it's not you. I've had this issue since day 1. Just open the clutch a bit and tranny will drop nicely into 1st. Normal for the bike, and not unusual with others as well. Ride on!! and long!! Keep the shiney side up:D
 

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I have the same problem with mine. I figured after letting the clutch out and in again it will slip into 1st gear pretty easily.

Another issue is when I'm dropping down a gear, while on 2nd and trying to go down to 1st gear, it goes to neutral instead for some reason. It happens mostly when stopping at traffic lights.
 

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I've always held in the clutch at lights and on larger bikes with tighter clutches - and I've got wimpy paper-pusher fingers. If it wears out the clutch it must take many thousands of miles to do it. I was one of the people who posted about the neutral to first problem but after reading through some of the tips here it's ceased to be an issue.
 

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I don't see how holding in the clutch can possibly wear anything out. When you pull the clutch lever, it just compresses the springs that push the pressure plate against the clutch discs. Everything spins freely with the clutch held in.

The only time you wear anything out is when the clutch is partially engaged and the plates are slipping against each other under power. But motorcycle clutches are designed to do this (bathed in oil, remember) and it takes quite a long time to actually wear them out.
 

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I was wondering about this question as well. I think the question about keeping clutch in causing wear comes from the car side of things. I assume a motorcycle clutch must work differently? Keeping a cars clutch down for long periods (as in at lights) can cause wear to the throw bearing. But how much wear it causes and if it is even valid now-a-days i am not sure about.
 

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I have the same issue, it's annoying and I haven't figured it out yet.
notice this with a lot of street bikes ...maybe is a "honda or motorcycle thing" ..... think is the bike's way of saying:hey i need an oil change ! or hey you are doing something wrong. just my op.

...but when you change the oil she should always shift like butter
 
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