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also, thinking of someone trying to open
a tight lid on a bottle or something,
they position main joints so as to activate
stronger muscles, even mass and gravity..

for these fasteners if in doubt
use only thumb and forefinger
to take them in to snug and a bit..

or if sensing pressure thru your palm,
when it increases to the point of starting
to slip, and you go for a better stronger
grip on the driver handle, thats into 'snug'..
 

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After reading about these 4 bolts and lack of a spec from Honda on torque value, I picked up some spares.
What pisses me off is that they do give a torque spec, and it's more than double what a bolt of that size can take. After shearing my first bolt, I went into a Honda dealership and verified it with their service desk to make sure I wasn't misreading it.
 

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Well it's not just the oil filter cover bolts. Virtually every bolt I've had to service on the engine causes some level of angst.
Luckily I've never been a big fan or user of torque wrenches. I've heard way too many stories like yours over the years.
Certainly there are some bolts that MUST be torqued exactly as specified, but I've yet to have to deal with one.
For simple routine maintenance, I'll keep trusting my hands.
For anything that involves multiple torqued tolerances, I'm probably not as qualified as a shop mechanic would be to deal with it and it's worth the dough to me not to be proven right.
 

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One thing I have learn't is if I'm unsure on how tight a bolt is I use my torque wrench to UNDO the bolt then I have a guide on how tight it needs to be when doing it up . Starting at the lowest setting then gradually working up till it moves then undoing it slightly and trying another in the series to confirm my settings.
 

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One thing I have learn't is if I'm unsure on how tight a bolt is I use my torque wrench to UNDO the bolt then I have a guide on how tight it needs to be when doing it up . Starting at the lowest setting then gradually working up till it moves then undoing it slightly and trying another in the series to confirm my settings.
I do a similar thing with a ratchet or wrench, paying attention to the amount of force required. But some bolts will corrode and take significantly more torque to remove than to properly install - so it depends.

Generally, a standard small bolt (M5, M6) isn't designed for a lot of torque, and using a 1/4" drive ratchet usually keeps you right in the proper torque range.
 

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Hmm, after reading this, I am glad I didn't have a torque wrench available last time I changed the oil and oil filter. I tightened and re-tightened the bolts as much as I felt comfortable at the time, but I have been having a slight dripping problem since that change, making me wonder from time to time if I needed to tighten those bolts more. Truth be told, I can't tell for sure where it is coming from, but being that it started after the last oil change (2500 miles ago), I would assume it would be leaking only from areas that I touched during the oil and filter change.

I am not impressed with Honda. They make the owner responsible for the valve check at 600 miles, they deny there is a stalling problem with this model and their torque info for these bolts is either missing or wrong depending on your manual. Either way people either break the bolts or have to live with oil on the garage floor, or both. The CBR 250 is an excellent beginner bike for a lot of reasons, but when I start looking to replace mine in a few years, it will NOT be with a Honda product.
 

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I feel just the opposite. My 2011 CBR was the first one off the truck at my dealership and only one of two he got for the first 6 months the year they were released. I traded in a Ninja250R that had a lot of things I didn't like about it, mostly the ergonomics. It felt cramped, the engine was far too "busy" for a twin and the gears were ridiculously short no matter what gearing set-up I tried and changing the oil was a PITA.
I've changed the oil in my CBR more than half a dozen times since then and I've never had even a hint of an oil leak. 600-mile service showed the valves were still within tolerances and I can do any service needed myself until I hit 16k. The bike has been a pure joy to ride and own. Reliable, torquey as hell compared to the Ninja and so much more comfortable for long rides.
I kept it bone stock for years, but now that I'm adding mods like a slip-on, new windscreen, new grips, etc. the results have all been positive despite a few expected difficult patches with fasteners that haven't been touched in years.
For such a "cheap" bike it's build quality is remarkable and I'd buy another Honda in a heartbeat.
 

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Hey @robm how did you take the bolt out oil filter housing? I literally did the same thing 😭😭😭.

I broke a bolt while reinstalling the oil filter cover. Can I get some help understanding where I might have gone wrong? One bolt broke, its in the picture, I managed to get it out in one piece (small miracle) and it broke in my hand shortly after I took this picture. I checked the other bolts and two more had slightly deformed.

View attachment 16465

I'm admittedly new to this, and I want to continue doing my own maintenance, but I'd like some of you that are more experienced to comment on why this happened, and how I can fix it. Here's a breakdown of my process:

1. I read, I read a lot before trying this, knowing that I don't have massive experience to fall back on. I read the service manual, and the DIY oil change thing here.

2. I made sure I had all the right tools, which includes a new torque wrench purchased today. This one (or possibly this one). It's not a high-end one, but I figured it was good enough, and better than me guessing by feel at the torques. The range is 5-80 ft-lb, with a stated accuracy of +-4% (I didn't check if that accuracy applies over the full scale).

3. I set the wrench to 9 lbs. The newest service manual doesn't seem to specify a torque, but the DIY oil change guide does, as do several other internet sources. It seems that this value may have been in older versions of the manual. When I tightened the bolts, I realized this was tighter than I would have tightened them on my own. I moved to a random bolt in my shop (that I wasn't worried about over tightening) and made sure the torque wrench was working, and that I knew how to use it. 9lbs seemed tight, but not bolt-breaking tight, so I decided it was probably right. I set the wrench to 5lbs (its lowest setting). That still seemed plenty tight to me, so I decided I'd start there and then move on.

4. With the wrench at 5 lbs, I tightened the bolts. I choked up about half way on the 14" handle, and went really slow. It felt like I was over doing it, I probably should have stopped at this point. Did all 4 bolts relatively evenly. Got one all the way torqued (to 5lb). While doing the final torque on another, I felt the bolt give. I slowly backed it out and got what's in the picture. I took each bolt out to inspect. One was fine, two were slightly disformed (stretched, at the same point as the break in this one), and the last broke in my hand when I picked it up from this picture. I'm lucky it's not broken off inside.

I'm going to see about getting 4 new bolts tomorrow. I'm hoping my dealer will have these on hand, but if not- does anybody have a source to order online? I'm taking my torque wrench to work and hoping I can check it against a higher-quality one. My plan is to do like the service manual says and only tighten them by hand to about what feels right to me. Am I on the right track here? Anything else I should be thinking about?

I found a couple posts in the archives, looks like I'm not the first to make this mistake:
Warning about oil change! [Archive] - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums
Oil Change from Hell! [Archive] - Honda CBR250R Forum : Honda CBR 250 Forums

But it really is discouraging to have this happen on my first attempt at doing my own service. I'll be doing the minivan-drive-to-work-of-shame tomorrow.
 

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It's pretty in there :( I'll need to get my tools later and take a pic of the depth.
There are a few ways to get it out. If there is an edge/step to the break, using an automatic center punch can sometimes spin it. Using a center-punch and hammer does the same thing if it's tighter.

Center-drilling and using an EZ-Out remover is another common way.
 

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Its a poor carpenter that blames his hammer.
The bolts for the oil filter cover are trash, pure & simple. I have never broken a bolt off in my life on any of the cars or bikes I've worked on, but then I will generally ONLY use a torque wrench when it's absolutely required. In over 20 oil changes on my 2011 CBR250R I have never had a problem using a hand-held 8mm bolt driver, tightening the bolts by "feel".
Just tighten them down and resist the urge to over-do. I've never had a gasket leak, but if the bolts aren't tight enough the drip of oil will let you know that they need to be a tiny bit tighter.
 

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I appreciate you!!

There are a few ways to get it out. If there is an edge/step to the break, using an automatic center punch can sometimes spin it. Using a center-punch and hammer does the same thing if it's tighter.

Center-drilling and using an EZ-Out remover is another common way.
 

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The bolts for the oil filter cover are trash, pure & simple. I have never broken a bolt off in my life on any of the cars or bikes I've worked on, but then I will generally ONLY use a torque wrench when it's absolutely required. In over 20 oil changes on my 2011 CBR250R I have never had a problem using a hand-held 8mm bolt driver, tightening the bolts by "feel".
Just tighten them down and resist the urge to over-do. I've never had a gasket leak, but if the bolts aren't tight enough the drip of oil will let you know that they need to be a tiny bit tighter.
Totally agree!

Torque wrenches cause more problems than they solve typically.

My youngest son was replacing the sprockets on his R6 a while ago (by himself) and he called me to ask about the torque spec. After looking it up he said it was 70 ft/lbs. I told him I though that was too much for the size nut/bolt he was dealing with. He used the spec (from a Yamaha publication) and stripped numerous bolts (stop at one...). Ended up having to buy a used sprocket carrier.

On most non-critical bolts, "snug" is usually adequate. Blue threadlocker (medium) is also a good idea if you have concerns about the bolt backing out.

Many times a 1/4" drive ratchet gives you enough leverage to tighten most M5/M6 bolts (8mm and 10mm head) without the risk of stripping.
 

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Well, I'm an old coot (turned 69 today) who's worked on a hell of a lot of cars and bikes in my day. In all this time I've never owned a torque wrench. The few times I've actually needed one I borrowed one from friends. Unless a specific torque is required to prevent a potentially critical failure or damage I've just never seen the need. And I find the over-reliance on torque wrenches by young aspiring backyard mechanics to be a little concerning. LOL.
 
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