[Tamir]

I bought a used 2011 CBR250R and in the process of trying to locate a tapping / rattling / knocking sound I converted the auto tensioner to a manual tensioner following a thread on here.

I read different ways of adjusting the tensioner and decided on the following:

I put engine at TDC, finger tightened bolt, rotated engine counter clockwise while continuing to tighten the bolt with my fingers until it would turn no more. Then I backed it out a 1/4 turn. Rode the bike, got it warm, left it running and started loosening the bolt. I expected to hear the chain start making a noise, stop and turn the bolt in 1/4 turn. However I had the screw very loose far out and never heard any change in noise. I then tightened the bolt as much as possible with my fingers, engine running, and the engine noise never changed.

So how do you set your CCT?

Our motorcycle has a typical noise, vibrations that sound better between 5 and 6 thousand rpm, but exist in the whole range. Probably a clicks that make the valve that helps the gas flow in the exhaust (REED VALVE 18601-KEA-741, Link to partzilla). Tell me what to call that noise, but it's there to stay there.

It's not something broken, it's that way the engine works. Everything is fine!

You can "silence" the ticking noise by an open exhaust, or let the engine scream at 10,000 rpm which makes enough background noise even with a quiet exhaust.

Regarding the manual tensioner, if you ask I will check for you what the rule is about the Honda C90, because for the CBR250R 2011 you will not find manufacturer's instructions, because our model does not have a manual tensioner.

There was a custom, and I do it my self, of replacing the auto tensioner every 25,000Km, but I researched a used tensioner that had worked 30,000Km, and found that it had no play, zero wear, and was perfectly fine like new one. But since replacing this Honda's tensioner became a kind of religious ceremony, so it seems to me that I continued to perform the ceremony. I recommend you go back to the auto tensioner.

 

[Tamir]

I notice it the most when letting out on the clutch around 5k and up.

Chances are that if it's so hard to record then there's no real problem, because when it's a malfunction, when a metal knocks on the metal, the knocks are strong enough to record them(That as a rule of thumb). Of course if you have a concern feel free to get checked by a qualified mechanic you trust.

Today I even hear the noise of the front brake pads, I used to not hear them, I hear them today when I close the throttle, and the RPM goes down, and the wind noise goes down, and the tire noise on the road goes down, and when you press the clutch to stop the RPM goes down more .... Like any noise, when I first heard it I thought I might have a brake fluid leak, because the noise appears when you press the brake lever ...

Get used to the noises, or buy earplugs (which is healthy for the rider anyway, because of the wind noise).