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It's been sitting for a while, probably about 3 months uncovered, on a small porch.

The battery is fine, reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off, and with the ignition switch on it reads zero across the battery contacts.

I checked the starter relay fuse and the aux fuse box, all are fine.

Pulled apart all the connectors and used electronics cleaner on the contacts, all the wiring looks just fine.


The bike is completely unreactive when it's turned on, none of the lights or main panel turn on. No buzz sound that it normally does when first turned on. Nothing. I'm at a complete loss.
 

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Honda: INNOVA125i(2010); CBR250R(2013)
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The battery is fine, reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off, and with the ignition switch on it reads zero across the battery contacts.
Hi. Your battery is dead.
  • The battery value should be above 12.3 volts. Even with the ignition on.
  • While the electric starter is working, the volts should not drop below 10V.
  • When the engine is running the voltage should be between 13.9(at idle) and 14.02 (even when the rpm is 5000 or above). This means that the coils are normal, and that the Rectifier/Regulator is normal.
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Diagram

I'm at a complete loss.
Replacement for a new battery.
If all the fuses are OK, in my opinion everything should be fine, but before starting, check with the new battery that there is no current leakage.
 
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reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off,
Not Good.
There should be no such difference. The voltage should remain the same, unless you have a short. Check how much current is leaking. A value above 0.34mA indicates the existence of a short in the system.
 

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It's been sitting for a while, probably about 3 months uncovered, on a small porch.

The battery is fine, reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off, and with the ignition switch on it reads zero across the battery contacts.

I checked the starter relay fuse and the aux fuse box, all are fine.

Pulled apart all the connectors and used electronics cleaner on the contacts, all the wiring looks just fine.


The bike is completely unreactive when it's turned on, none of the lights or main panel turn on. No buzz sound that it normally does when first turned on. Nothing. I'm at a complete loss.
Check the ignition. Someone may have tried hotwiring it.
-Also, many bikes have one master-fuse. This may be one of them.
 

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The battery is fine, reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off, and with the ignition switch on it reads zero across the battery .
Dead battery! At 12.25v, you may have 40% capacity. But dropping to zero with just key ON is completely dead. Put on trickle charger for 24-hrs and measure:

1. battery voltage with everything OFF. volts = ???
2. battery voltage during cranking. volts = ???
 

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It's been sitting for a while, probably about 3 months uncovered, on a small porch.

The battery is fine, reads 12.25 when it's off the bike, 10.3 when it's connected with the ignition off, and with the ignition switch on it reads zero across the battery contacts.

I checked the starter relay fuse and the aux fuse box, all are fine.

Pulled apart all the connectors and used electronics cleaner on the contacts, all the wiring looks just fine.


The bike is completely unreactive when it's turned on, none of the lights or main panel turn on. No buzz sound that it normally does when first turned on. Nothing. I'm at a complete loss.
Battery is not fine - it's dead, and most likely needs replacement if it doesn't charge over 12.V and hold over 10V during cranking.

A fully charged 12V battery reads 12.7V or more.

12.25V is 60% (EDIT: 40%) charged, but it should hold that when connected - unless it's junk.

Right now it's dead as a door nail.

I'd plan on buying a new one.
 

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Here's graph of battery charge-state vs. voltage. Note that 12.25v is only 40% ... IF it can maintain that when you turn key ON. Since yours drops way, way too much; it's completely dead. Last ditch effort, trickle-charge for 24-hrs and re-measure. If it can't maintain +10v when cranking, battery definitely permanently bad.

 
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