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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
PLEASE HELP ME!

Pretty frustrated here. I have a 2013 CBR 250 and it’s not starting. I was getting a solid click when I went to start it so I did some research and figured it was the starter motor because of the click from the solenoid so I ordered a eBay starter and replaced it....then I got the rapid click that was in sync with the check engine light blinking...so I replaced the solenoid and bought a brand new battery and installed both...:back to a single click....PLEASE HELP ME! I really need my bike to get to work....where should I check next?
 

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Hi Lil250rider and welcome to the forum. :)
A single click can also mean a low /almost dead battery. Are you sure the new one you installed came charged?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I didn’t charge it…I just assumed since it was new that it was ready to go SMH….I have changed the battery, the solenoid and the actual starter ….I thought I had the issue narrowed down to the Stator or the regulator because the bike died while I was riding it. I had the old battery tested with a Honda machine that printed me a receipt that read that it was all the way bad so I replaced it…..I’m really leaning to the regulator but now that you say that maybe battery???? Would I get the click still if the stator or regulator where bad???
 

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You need a volt meter.

It also sounds like the battery voltage is low to me. Keep all the parts you replaced.

You need to check the voltage and most likely charge the battery. New batteries are not necessarily fully charged.

The battery needs to read over 12.7V, before cranking, to be 100% charged. After charging it needs to sit awhile for the voltage to drop from the charging voltage. After you confirm it's charged, the next thing to do is to check it when you hit the starter button. When cranking you should still see over 10V.

What happens to the dash lights when you hit the starter button?

I think your new battery isn't charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I really appreciate your guys’ help….when I go to start it it gives the solid click and the dash lights go off in sync with me pressing the starter button….it will click as fast as I click it (if that makes any sense) so check the battery first? Gotcha …the last one was definitely done….
 

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I really appreciate your guys’ help….when I go to start it it gives the solid click and the dash lights go off in sync with me pressing the starter button….it will click as fast as I click it (if that makes any sense) so check the battery first? Gotcha …the last one was definitely done….
Yes. What you are describing is typical of low battery voltage or reduced voltage to the starter.

Test the voltage before doing anything else. Let us know what you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tested battery and it test exactly as it should , 12 then drops to 10 when I crank it smh ….I’m really leaning towards the regulator thing or the stator
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New starter new solenoid new battery which is working properly…..what else could it be?? If the stator or the regulator were bad would the bike still click like that when I try and start it?? Lights dash horn super strong after new battery….
 

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New starter new solenoid new battery which is working properly…..what else could it be?? If the stator or the regulator were bad would the bike still click like that when I try and start it?? Lights dash horn super strong after new battery….
No. Those are related to charging the battery, which doesn't seem to be the issue.

The next step is to trace the voltage from the battery. It runs into the solenoid, and out to the starter when you hit the button. You need to see how much voltage is actually getting to the starter when you hit the button. It should be just slightly less than the battery directly, but not much (over 10V).

Offshore starter solenoids can often be junk or not correct. I might install the OEM solenoid and see what happens.

You can check the original starter by using jumper cables. Ground the black lead to the battery and a part of the starter, and take the hot lead and touch it to the terminal where the power wire attaches. If it engages and spins rapidly it works.

Honestly, I don't trust a lot of aftermarket parts, and they often come with their own problems.
 

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So you replaced dead battery with brand-new dead battery! Therefore nothing changed. ALL new batteries come dead and needs to be charged. Voltage dropping to 10v and lights dimming when pushing start button is sure sign of weak battery. Charge it up with trickle charger for at least 24-hrs before trying again. Battery should be 13.5-13.8v fresh off charger.

Remove ALL those parts you replaced and put originals back on. Unless you bought new OEM Denso parts from authorised Honda dealer, there's absolutely zero chance that they are of same quality as originals. I'll take them and pay for shipping if you're not putting them back on.

I still have Honda VF500F I bought in 1986. Still has original starter, starter solenoid and going strong. Same with 1986 VFR750F I bought last year. Original starter and solenoid. OEM parts are simply best.



 

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^ Two really cool Hondas I almost bought back in the day.

Bought a FZ600 and Ninja 750 instead. Should have bought the Hondas.

That year VF500F is still my favorite.
 

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Tested battery and it test exactly as it should , 12 then drops to 10 when I crank it smh ….I’m really leaning towards the regulator thing or the stator
Know that 12.0V is not fully charged. It needs to be 12.7V or more. Right off the charger it will be in the 13V range.

Over 11V during cranking is better, but 10V should spin it over and not just click.

As Danno suggested, start by charging the battery fully. I'd also re-install the original solenoid and starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, appreciate the help! I took it to a buddy who I found out works at a bike shop in my area. He instantly scared me and told me my motor could be bad because he couldn’t get the bike to roll in any gear. He also said the $40 eBay starter I bought could be bad and he kept my original starter. The meter only read in whole numbers if that makes any sense. It read a solid 10 then 12 when cranking so I assumed it was ok but I guess I now know that could not be true … really hoping it isn’t the engine but I’m gonna pay the $80 for the diag….wish me the best ….
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That 86 500 looks like the bike Tom Cruise was riding in Top Gun! Lol really cool bikes man, and I couldn’t validate if the starter and the solenoid I pulled from the bike were originals, but you just reminded me to take him the solenoid back to the shop , hopefully they don’t half ass it and trace down the problem………Would a bad battery cause the bike to stall while riding it ????
 

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If I recall correctly members reported that the bike stalled while riding with a faulty battery but I'm not 100% sure. Would make sense though as the fuel injection and ignition need power.
 

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Yeah, 12v pretty much means battery is dead.



While you wait for it to charge, put all OEM parts back on. Inspect battery cables very closely. Look at terminals at each end and make sure they're securely crimped on. No corrosion. Could be issue if you live in hot humid weather newr ocean. Since electricity flows on surface of wires (hence multi-stranded wire for more current-carrying capacity), corroded wires won't conduct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok that makes perfect sense! It’s in the shops hands for now but today I’ll drop this solenoid off and advise them of my battery concerns and see if they can figure it out …..as I stated the meter I used on read in whole numbers so I got 12 off then 10 while trying to crank it but hopefully those parameters weren’t high enough when I tested it…mechanic has me spooked because he went through the gears and the rear wheel wouldn’t roll in any gear ….I really hope it’s that so I can’t can continue riding because I’ve fell in love with sport bikes ….thanks again for all y’all’s help here’s a pic of the stock solenoid does it look funny??
 
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