No problem wish i could help more. Plus it gave me a reason to go out and get the bike ready for a ride this afternoon once the sun comes out.
"They" say you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the cables from the battery, and leaving it disconnected for about half an hour... I read that somewhere (here on these forums?), however I don't know if it's true, or not.anybody think a ecu reset is worthwhile?
if so how can i do it with a bike that wont start?
@Deanohh, thats a valid point. Im getting a consistent white spark (on both plugs, old and new) when I pull the wire and plug out of the cylinder.Here's a long shot... What if extra heat from exhaust leaking past the loose plug did something to the coil or plug wire. A weak spark would be visible but not able to ignite the mixture under compression.
A good blue spark is what you want... you could very well have a bad ignition coil. I think that at this point you'll need a Service Manual, and a good digital multi-meter to go through all the possible causes for a weak spark. The S/M has a troubleshooting section, which guides you through the various tests to perform.@Deanohh, thats a valid point. Im getting a consistent white spark (on both plugs, old and new) when I pull the wire and plug out of the cylinder.
A blue spark would be hotter, so perhaps it should be blue? I don't suppose anyone out there knows the answer to that question from experience with their own bike?
Do you have the experience and tools necessary to take on the job of rebuilding the top end yourself? If you do, you could save yourself quite a bit of money by going DIY... a new cylinder, piston, rings, top end gasket set will run about $150.00 total from one of the online Honda dealers. Add $70.00 for a factory Service Manual if you don't already have one.Thanks to all that have offered their advice and insight on this issue....
Recap: Preowned 2011 CBR 250R 11k miles, 200 of them put on by me.
I took the bike to the local Honda shop, and unfortunately the engine has no compression. I was told that this was likely caused by the previous owner running it low on oil or coolant, but it is curious that the motor didn't show any signs of wear during the 200 miles I put on it before it abruptly died on the freeway. Or maybe since I was new to the bike and to motorcycles in general I didn't know any better to be aware of tell-tale signs.
Either way, the shop estimates that it will take $550 in labor alone to tear the engine apart, and depending on whats wrong it could be another $500-$1000 to get it running once again.
So I am seeking advice about my options with this bike. Does it have any value as a rolling Chassis? Is a replacement motor obtainable or a good idea? Could I put a 400cc motor in it if one were available? Is rebuilding the current motor my only choice to get any return on the bike at this point? Maybe I should try to rebuild it myself.
I thought choosing a newer Honda 250 with low miles was a relatively low risk as a used bike. I guess I was wrong
Well I certainlly don't have the experience but I'm trying a rebuild anyway.Do you have the experience and tools necessary to take on the job of rebuilding the top end yourself? If you do, you could save yourself quite a bit of money by going DIY... a new cylinder, piston, rings, top end gasket set will run about $150.00 total from one of the online Honda dealers. Add $70.00 for a factory Service Manual if you don't already have one.
Holy crap... you've got some serious engine rebuilding ahead of you. Just based on the size of that hole in the top of your piston, I'd want to split the crankcase and see what the bottom end of this motor looks like. What does the cylinder head look like?Well I certainlly don't have the experience but I'm trying a rebuild anyway. View attachment 6372
As you can see from the picture I have made some progress. I am a bit tentative about disassembling the motor any further, but do I have to? Having trouble getting the piston to move manually, if I can get it to rise and replace it is there a necessity to go any further with disassembly of the motor? Just trying to learn as I go.
Have you checked your engine stop switch... could it be in the off position?Now mine wont start either.
Last rode the bike 5 weeks ago (off the bike because of a wrist injury).
Tried to start it this afternoon after charging the battery and would not start.
Empty gauge on fuel guage flashing (could hear a small amount of fuel in the tank). Filled up with 5 litres of unleaded (cycled up to the petrol station with a canister).
Tried again and still will not start. The pump can be heard as usual and all the electrics work ok (tacho spins as usual. ABS light ONLY is on, NO other warning light). Footrest is down and gearbox is in neutral. I've tried the full throttle open position as mentioned in the user manual (used to doing this with a carb equipped bike) and the the usual closed position, no joy.
The bike has been parked outside in our 30 degree heatwave for the last 5 weeks (under a black bike over as well-probably formed a kind of mini oven) and I've not run the engine once.
Surely this bike can cope with UK temperatures?
I've noticed that there is not the usual smell of fuel that I normally get when the bike starts. I've not checked for a spark yet. I will do that on my day off on Friday next if no start during the week. Is the HT lead easy to get to? How easy is it to remove the spark plug?
Could this be a vapour lock caused by evaporation of the fuel in the fuel system?
I'm puzzled and my confidence in the bike is a little shaken.I though I'd left all this kind of stuff behind me when I got rid of my MZ.
Unless the mechanics at the dealership screwed up something on the bike when they supposedly did the 600 mile service (still not sure if they checked the valve clearances even though I have it in writing that they say they did).
PS My wrist is on the mend so that's some good news.
PPS. I will try to start the engine again on a cooler morning (instead of a hot afternoon) as I suspect a vapour lock has formed in the fuel system.
Cylinder head doesn't look too bad, two valves shattered and one of the spring fasteners snapped. A bracket that holds the cam down on one side cracked as well. Think those will all be fairly cheap to replace.Holy crap... you've got some serious engine rebuilding ahead of you. Just based on the size of that hole in the top of your piston, I'd want to split the crankcase and see what the bottom end of this motor looks like. What does the cylinder head look like?
Yes. Turned it on and off several times and listened to the pump cycling on and off.Have you checked your engine stop switch... could it be in the off position?