Any damage to the valve seats or the head casting? Try to find a specialist cylinder head shop that has SERDI equipment (and knows how to use it).Cylinder head doesn't look too bad, two valves shattered and one of the spring fasteners snapped. A bracket that holds the cam down on one side cracked as well. Think those will all be fairly cheap to replace.
Wondering if someone experienced might rebuild it for a couple hundred dollars since I've done most the work of getting it out. Just opening the crank case is a bit intimidating.
Yea I think I'll find a specialist. Any idea what might have caused the hole in the piston? The bike only has 11k on it and was full on fluids during the 250 miles that I owned it.Any damage to the valve seats or the head casting? Try to find a specialist cylinder head shop that has SERDI equipment (and knows how to use it).
If you supply it to them stripped down with the relevant pages from the manual that should be OK.
Back when this no start problem first came up, you found the spark plug loose in the cylinder head, right? That air leak directly into the combustion chamber would have caused a lean condition, and in time that can definitely burn a hole in the top of the piston.... Any idea what might have caused the hole in the piston?...
You mean to say that you may have had the kill switch in the off position instead of the on position? The kill switch has to be in the on position for the engine to be able to start.Yes. Turned it on and off several times and listened to the pump cycling on and off.
I'll check it again tommorrow as I may have had the kill switch on instead of off when I was trying to start the bike.
I'm editing this because I have just gone back through the rather confusing thread which is covering two completely different problems. I don't think ignition issues are your most likely problem. It seems crazy but in view of your comments about no petrol smell are you sure that you didn't accidentally get diesel? If so no real harm done but you will obviously have to drain it out.Tried it again this morning. The Kill switch has been in the correct position during my attempts to start the bike. A big clue is that you can hear the fuel pump go through a charging cycle when the switch is turned from off to on. Would have been nice if the solution was so simple.
How easy is it to get to the spark plug cap and to take the plug out for inspection?
Is there a simpler test for compression than screwing in a compression tester (for example sticking a bung in the exhaust and waiting for it to blow out?)
In the past I've used a compression tester and a then a mini compressor and a mechanics stethoscope to trace a leak.
This time the spark plug inspection is as far as I'm going.
1/ Is there a spark.
2/ Is there fuel on the plug.
If the answer is YES to both of the above then alarm bells will start to ring and it's being sent back to the dealers on a trailer. I might do that anyway.Depends on what I find and if the manual can help me to trace the problem quickly. If I can fix it myself I will. I just don't trust dealer mechanics anymore.
That's a sound theory, would the valves have shattered as a consequence of the lean mixture as well? Because the way the edges of the hole are pretty rough seems to indicate that some metal fragments from one of the valves became fused to the top of the piston....Back when this no start problem first came up, you found the spark plug loose in the cylinder head, right? That air leak directly into the combustion chamber would have caused a lean condition, and in time that can definitely burn a hole in the top of the piston.
Your other option to rebuilding this engine, is to find a complete engine from a crashed bike on e-bay... they are starting to show up from time to time. Might be cheaper in the long run.