[Aargee]

Blimey... why?

Simple - I only move up on the RPM, when I find its smooth in the current RPM; until then, I keep varying.

 

[Redline]

Varying between 1000-4000rpm mustn't be much fun, or good for the bike.

Lugging the engine is one of the worst things to do.

 

[Aargee]

Lugging the engine happens...
3rd gear at 2K RPM & below
4th gear at 2.5K RPM & below
5th gear at 3K RPM & below
6th gear at 3.5K RPM & below

 

[Robert_C]

Another thread that just wont die

It won't die because, in truth, it probably does not matter. If you had enough data points in each set, and you never will with something like this, it is unlikely that there would be any significant difference between the two sets.

It is the little things, that can not be tested and proven, that tend to make for the longest lasting arguments.

 

[makaTony]

just to get my story to this tread:
i read many things about this and am avid viewer of m13. i was gonna hard break-in my bike. so i called my petrolhead friend that works on bikes to tell me where would be best to do it. he did give me good advice. then i asked how worth it is whereas he said that back in the day you could get some power out of it but nowadays you would get only lower single digit percent more power. i don't think it's worth is for that. he advised me to not go to high RPM with a cooled down engine though. that's all i have been doing since

 

[Panamera]

if you baby it in the breakin period your bike will be underpowered.
that is when the engine is adjusting.

for the first few hundred k's you need to keep the revs high between 6-7k RPM
and thrash it every once in a while.

 

[Rossman]

Break in

Well, I have read all the stories about hard break in vs. Honda break in and let me tell you what I've found. I have run my bike as follows: Never over 4K for the first 150km, then never over 5K rpm for the next 200km, then never over 6K rpm for the next 200km, then up to 7-8K rpm ever since. I haven't been over 8.5-9K rpm yet, and my bike runs super strong. My friend on the other hand bought his 3 weeks before me and ran it like he stole it. He took mine for a ride and immediately commented on mine having more power. So, take it for what it's worth, that's just my experience thus far.

 

[Metalstorm]

With modern engines having the tight tolerances that they have these days there are only two major rules to follow as if they did come from the bible:

Rule #1: DON"T LUG IT
Rule #2: DON'T BOUNCE IT OFF THE REV LIMITER

Edit: As for the rest, do what makes you comfortable as long as you follow rule #1 & rule #2

 

[shauno]

what we need is a voluteer! someone that from day 1 of getting their bike will ride the **** out of it, making every change on the red no matter what situation, then after 300 miles they can get the bike serviced and post the results please?... oh... and im not volunteering, im riding mine conservatively til 1st service

 

[kflaig]

I myself know nothing about breaking in engines. I submit that no one who has posted here saying that their limited individual experience is important or who references those who have no valid credentials knows either.

Those who know aren't people who've bought new motorcycles and had good luck with whatever they've done during their break-in procedures. Individual experiences lack statistical validity.

Those who we should believe are people who have had serious training and experience. Breadth of experience counts. Credentials count.

Don't believe me? How about if I tell you that I've driven for years drunk and had no problems at all. What would you say to me if I suggested that driving drunk is a great way to drive? Would you be comfortable driving drunk because I've lived through it? I hope not.

Here's what Porsche says about breaking I their 911 GT3, a really big bucks performance car. I think they have believable credentials.

I suggest that there's not likely to be that much difference between motorcycle engines and high performance car engines in the break-in procedures:

"Break in hints for the first 2,000 miles/3,000 kilometers. The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche.​

Despite the most modern, high-precision manufacturing methods, the moving parts must still wear in with each other. This wearing-in occurs mainly in the first 2,000 miles/3,000 kilometers.​

Therefore:​

Preferably take longer trips.​

Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible.​

Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.​

Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm (revolutions per minute)​

Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear...​

Tell me, do you think Porsche, who's selling cars well into the 6 figures to people who are buying them for their performance, is going to steer their clients down the wrong road?​

 

[kutter]

Getting my CBR250RA next week!

I'll certainly read what the manual says knowing designers like me know what the **** they're saying. I'd prefer to ride longer trips to get to where I can ring this baby out with confidence I'm treating it well. I ordered mine in March & I think its a crime I've had to wait till riding season is almost over but ask me if I'd rather wait till next spring & I'll answer with a firm "not on your life". A week seems like too long to wait at this point, but I called my dealer to verify they hadn't received any bad news & they verified it was still coming. They expect it later this week but it will take a few days to get the paperwork & that will put me into next week.

After the urging of a guy I met I'm taking a safety course offered by our state where I'll get some classroom & riding on their 125's learning ? some new skills - maybe? I have been riding for over 30 years but don't claim to know it all so maybe it will keep my mind off of waiting. Maybe in the second week I'll bring my new CBR250RA and let all my classmates drool over it.

 

[Aargee]

One of my favorite quotes from my friend: "I've never seen a blown engine yet that didn't have fresh oil in it...Figure that!"

When my engine has a seizure, it had an oil that was changed not more than 200 Kms (125 mi).

I'll break all the myths here by stating what happened to my C250R

Ok, its been more than 2 months now & the myth is nothing but, there's no concept of keeping rev low or high. I have to agree with the thread starter that - Just follow what you manual says - avoid sudden acceleration & I'd say NEVER do a sudden acceleration. You can even ride in 70-75 mph, but do it gradually & NEVER do a T.W.O

 

[kutter]

Michael got it right

From page 59 of the manual for the CBR250R/RA, as sold in Malaysia:

RUNNING-IN
Help assure your motorcycle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first 500 km (300 miles).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.

Avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration in the first 300 miles.

Translation: Do not put a heavy load on the engine beyond about half throttle when accelerating. This does NOT limit RPM. Honda is concerned you limit the engine from putting out peak power before the rings are totally seated. Now trying to go 95 mph will greatly load your engine. Allowing it to rev to 7 or 8 grand while travelling downhill as you gently roll on half throttle is OK while twisting full throttle as you wind through even the lower gears uphill is not.

I'll have to say this is hard as **** cause I want to accelerate hard and see what my little baby can do. I will put these 300 miles on as soon as possible, and then I'll get to ride it like I had stoll it.

 

[CBR250R]

Avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration in the first 300 miles.

Translation: Do not put a heavy load on the engine beyond about half throttle when accelerating. This does NOT limit RPM. Honda is concerned you limit the engine from putting out peak power before the rings are totally seated. Now trying to go 95 mph will greatly load your engine. Allowing it to rev to 7 or 8 grand while travelling downhill as you gently roll on half throttle is OK while twisting full throttle as you wind through even the lower gears uphill is not.

I'll have to say this is hard as **** cause I want to accelerate hard and see what my little baby can do. I will put these 300 miles on as soon as possible, and then I'll get to ride it like I had stoll it.

Hi Kutter,

Not trying to be picky here or to be oppositional - but I wonder if there is any need at all for translation. I'm sure Honda chose those words (Avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration) both deliberately and extremely carefully for the manual. I suspect that if they meant instead to say or add "Do not place a heavy load on the engine" - they would have said so. Having said that - I am with you - I avoided placing a heavy load on the engine as well (e.g., high gear, low rpm, climbing a grade) - partly because I simply don't like to lug the engine at any time. I also slowly increased throttle to redline numerous times during my break-in period - because I too was curious how the bike performed and I wanted to stretch its legs a bit. I have to say - now with almost 7000 kms (4400 miles) the bike continues to feel great - it is loosening up nicely. This bike really pulls and is a real "torque monster" for a single with 249cc's of displacement. Now I know what some reviewers were referring to when they commented that the CBR250R's impressive torque output made it feel more like a bike with 100cc more displacement!

Mike

 

[Redline]

^ spot on.

I wish people would stop trying to put words in Honda's mouth.

Kutter, the recommendation is in simple English, it does not need translating.

 

[hondafan]

My CBR had a noticeable increase in power after 1200kms (7-800 miles). The transmission which was great from the start, became even better. It now has 2400 miles on it, and the whole bike works like a Swiss watch. About the most satisfying bike I have ridden in 40 years.
L.

 

[Aufitt]

My Triumph Daytona took 30,000 km to loosen up. 108 rwhp at 3000 km, 121 rwhp at 38,000 kim.. and I ran it in progressively.
When I sold it at 60,000km it was better than new.

Its not just the piston & barrel that needs to bed in.. its every single moving part.

Those that advocate a 'thrash it like its stolen and it goes better' is true for the first 10,000 km... but its long term that matters.

 

[arn]

Not really OT, but how did they "break in" the engines of piston engined aircraft?

Was it the norm to crawl all over the aerodrome at "low rpm" for several days on end? Or did people just cane those engines and get off the ground into the air?

Maybe I'm missing something here. Or perhaps those engines made almost a century ago have better tolerances than modern engines?

 

[Aufitt]

Not really OT, but how did they "break in" the engines of piston engined aircraft?

Was it the norm to crawl all over the aerodrome at "low rpm" for several days on end? Or did people just cane those engines and get off the ground into the air?

Maybe I'm missing something here. Or perhaps those engines made almost a century ago have better tolerances than modern engines?

100 yrs ago manufacturing tolerances are nowhere near that of today.

In fact race motors are built with a bigger ring gap than a stock bike, thats why they dont require run in.
Where as the cbr is built for longevity.

 

[Moldy_Dog]

Not really OT, but how did they "break in" the engines of piston engined aircraft?

Was it the norm to crawl all over the aerodrome at "low rpm" for several days on end? Or did people just cane those engines and get off the ground into the air?

Maybe I'm missing something here. Or perhaps those engines made almost a century ago have better tolerances than modern engines?

Aircraft engines are run in at full throttle, but they are not really comparable to motorcycle engines. Sure they may be the same at a very basic level, but they are totally different in terms of the quality of parts, tolerances, and operating conditions.

PS: They still make piston-powered aircraft today.