Honda CBR 250 Forum banner
121 - 138 of 138 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,032 Posts
Driving around like ms daisy for 400 miles is stupid and completely pointless.
don't forget that new riders (especially new to riding) need to drive like miss daisy for a little more than 400 miles :D:D

didn't we have this debate already !? :D:D

let's get off the worries and back to the tuning !!;):D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
don't forget that new riders (especially new to riding) need to drive like miss daisy for a little more than 400 miles :D:D

didn't we have this debate already !? :D:D

let's get off the worries and back to the tuning !!;):D
haha.. yeah maybe thats why they recommend a slow break in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,105 Posts
I agree with this, I build engines on a weekly basis and have never "brokein in" an engine or had a failure. The single most important part is to heat cycle the engine 2 or 3 times. On a 4 stroke all you need to do ia "break in" the cam which is brokein in within an half hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I agree with this, I build engines on a weekly basis and have never "brokein in" an engine or had a failure. The single most important part is to heat cycle the engine 2 or 3 times. On a 4 stroke all you need to do ia "break in" the cam which is brokein in within an half hour.
I don't know what you use, but for smaller motors I know they use an oven for the heat cycles so that by the time its mounted, warm it up, make sure its good to go for 10-20 minutes and then good to go.

I'm having a hard time coming to terms with the 600 mile maintenance considering my knowledge of motors and would rather spend the 200+ bucks in several other ways for the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
My valves were tight at 600 miles.
Did you have any symptoms of tight valves or just simply they reported that? I guess I'm skeptical, but its gonna be a big enough dent in the bank account for something that may not even be wrong. Its in my nature.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts
Saving $$$$$.

I'm having a hard time coming to terms with the 600 mile maintenance considering my knowledge of motors and would rather spend the 200+ bucks in several other ways for the bike.
Do the Required Service Yourself. Then you will have $$$$$ to spend on other Items of your Choice.
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
Did you have any symptoms of tight valves or just simply they reported that? I guess I'm skeptical, but its gonna be a big enough dent in the bank account for something that may not even be wrong. Its in my nature.
My dealer is pretty good. I trust them. Bike ran smoother after the service. I would've done it myself if I had the time.

Of course it's up to you, but since the service manual says to do it at 600 I did.

Don't have to do it again until 16k, which is pretty good. My old Ninja 250 was every 7500 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,105 Posts
I don't know what you use, but for smaller motors I know they use an oven for the heat cycles so that by the time its mounted, warm it up, make sure its good to go for 10-20 minutes and then good to go.

I'm having a hard time coming to terms with the 600 mile maintenance considering my knowledge of motors and would rather spend the 200+ bucks in several other ways for the bike.
What do you mean you don't know what I use? to heat cycle an engine you simply run it up to operating temp, let it cool and repete a few times. If you don't believe in the 600 mile maintenance then don't do it simple as that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
I asked the guys at the dealership about break-in riding when I bought the bike. They said, and I quote:
"Oh, just don't ride like a jackass, and bring it in for service at 600 miles."
That's the best way I've ever heard those instructions delivered. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Load is more importanat than RPM. No wide open throttle, no lugging. Allowing the revs to build slowly in teh lower gears will not hurt the engine per se. Also, vary rpm, no long constant rpm cruizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Did any of you find you had to use special tools for the job? Or just standard metric tools? I checked with my dealer, it was even more outrageous..$367 and presumably + tax as well..I was curious and left shocked so no doubt I'll do this myself. Just curious if I need to be mindful of any special tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
You need feeler gauges. Ones that are paper thin. They can be either SAE or metric, but if they have metric on them(like mine do), it will make things easier. A torque wrench is a good idea. Other than that, a full ratchet set and other basic tools is what you need. A telescopic magnet will make your life a lot easier. Plan on spending a bit of time figuring stuff out. You may want to get the service manual anyways, since there's not so much info here on the net.

These are the ones I have.

Feeler Gauge - 32 Piece, SAE/Metric

Cheap yet effective. You will either need a shim kit or have a dealership(like mine) that does free shim exchanges. I guess you could buy them too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I'm not worried about tools like that, I have a fair amount of tools, my father is a milwright and has just about every tool you can think of. I was thinking more along the lines of some weird as bolt that requires a special "Honda wrench" but if its just tools of that nature I'll be good to go. Have everything you mentioned and I'll happily save myself..400 bucks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
I'm not worried about tools like that, I have a fair amount of tools, my father is a milwright and has just about every tool you can think of. I was thinking more along the lines of some weird as bolt that requires a special "Honda wrench" but if its just tools of that nature I'll be good to go. Have everything you mentioned and I'll happily save myself..400 bucks!
Ok awesome! Then you're all set. Try to get the service manual, that will probably help a lot. Ask about a shim exchange program though. That can save you even more money.:)
 
121 - 138 of 138 Posts
Top