[qlred]

I doubt that it is your motor. Just off hand, sounds like bad gas, some kind of fueling problem. It may be a problem with the electrical or computer, one user had very strange running when he had a bad batter and they had to replace several parts.

I'm sure you'll sort it out, don't worry.

 

[qlred]

shim, as in the valve shims, so the valves are too tight? That would make it run very good until it got hot, but when you first started out it would give full power. If they were way out of spec, it would be hard to start when cold and maybe pop and try and back fire. Could be that I guess, if you didn't check them at 1000km

I would double check the battery and rectifier. Make sure the air filter can get air.

 

[qlred]

Y'day I spent the whole day at workshop; SHIMs didn't have any issues, valve clearance was only 0.24mm of difference (was the highest among the 4). Oil filter was right in position, which means, the vehicle didn't deprive of oil circulation. But in the afternoon, we found the alarming issue that caused the vehicle to this stage. We never expected such a thing to happen!!!

A bird made a nest or a rat chewed the spark wire? Maybe a snake went up the pipe. A stick has bent the fuel line.

 

[qlred]

Does it have something to do with that rubber diaphragm, mounted over the motor?

 

[qlred]

Now it's getting good. Let's just keep guessing
One of the first things I notice about my bike is the rubber piece above the motor. I decided the bike must have a high energy ignition and the rubber piece was insulation, put there to prevent electrical discharge to other parts of the bike. If that is the case, then a 'leak', that got around the insulation, may burn a hole in several piece in short order.

My guess is that a hole in a wire or lose connection caused a grounding to the frame, and that robbed the engine of it's proper spark. (Hey it's only a guess.) But I can wait for the whole story.

 

[qlred]

No wait, Aargee left a clue that it may have something to do with 'break in myth.' But I think he may have meant quality control. Or maybe he's trying to throw us off the trail.

Maybe the generator was bad and they had to pull the motor to replace it. He probably had a plug in hooked up for his girlfriend's curling iron, hehehe.

 

[qlred]

So are you saying this is quite normal?

I think he is saying that that part of the piston doesn't even touch the cylinder wall. In the picture, you can't see damage to the rings, (are they broken, cracked or chipped?) Just looking at it, I'd say the problem was lower down. The main bearing can seize too, right? We can't yet discount that maybe there was crap in the case, wrong kind of oil or improper viscosity.

What a bummer to have to deal with, I am sorry to hear that about your machine.

I have 3,000 miles on my bike. The dealer changed the filter at 600 miles and I changed the oil twice since then. I still sometimes shift into neutral after coming off the highway. It clacks a bit from 1st to 2nd under full throttle and will give a big whack when downshifting into 3rd aggressively.

My bike hasn't used any oil, it keeps getting smoother and has plenty of power. It hasn't stumbled or missed a beat ever.

It looked like there was a link in your post about someone's guess about the problem, but the link was dead. Thank you for taking the time to give us updates, hope you are back on the road soon! GL

 

[qlred]

So, Aargee, what's the update, any news?

 

[qlred]

>If so, how did you get it resolved? Pls help.
You will have to run it in and see if it gets smoother. I'd run it hard, if it is not right, then it will break again.
>I've to approach the corrupt DMV to get it changed!!!
You know the drill, bring some bucsheesh.
Good luck, friend, I hope the for best possible outcome.

 

[qlred]

well, if it is too much hassle, then you can sell the bike. It seems that big companies always have their costumers do the R&D. I don't think it is very fair when you get caught in that situation.