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CBBR250r first service

17961 Views 55 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  furious_blue
Booked my bike for its first sevice and the dealer asked for the bike the day before to to allow the valve shims to be checked cold so this service will take 24hrs. This service will cost me £50 for oil nad materials. Talking with sales staff they are saying that the lead time for the cbr250 is very poor and the cbr250ra are like gold dust, this must reflect on Hondas logistics. They also mentioned the new crossover which launched this weekend and still no stock availble to meet orders.

regards

chasp UK
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how long did you guys go until your second oil change? i've got probably 600 miles on my first oil change and the shifting is already notchy again
I've got 1100 on mine now...The manual says to change oil and filter every 8,000 miles or every 12 months...whichever comes first....since I just had my oil/filter changed first week of September...I wont bother to change it again until this time in 2012

And as far as shifting? I cant tell a bit of difference either before the first service or after..it all still feels the same to me....

The manual also says to have your brake fluid and engine coolant replaced every (12,000 miles i think it said) or every 2 years, whichever comes first.
The manual also says to have your brake fluid and engine coolant replaced every (12,000 miles i think it said) or every 2 years, whichever comes first...doesn't the clutch run off the brake fluid? maybe that might be causing your shifting problems
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A good rule of thumb is to change it at the beginning of every riding season.
I've got 1100 on mine now...The manual says to change oil and filter every 8,000 miles or every 12 months...whichever comes first....since I just had my oil/filter changed first week of September...I wont bother to change it again until this time in 2012

And as far as shifting? I cant tell a bit of difference either before the first service or after..it all still feels the same to me....

The manual also says to have your brake fluid and engine coolant replaced every (12,000 miles i think it said) or every 2 years, whichever comes first...doesn't the clutch run off the brake fluid? maybe that might be causing your shifting problems

The clutch is cable actuated. Isn't hydraulic so it doesn't use fluids.
Making sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly and lubed will help with clutch engagement/disengagement and clutch cable longevity.
The clutch is cable actuated. Isn't hydraulic so it doesn't use fluids.
Making sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly and lubed will help with clutch engagement/disengagement and clutch cable longevity.
Thats true and i knew that it had a cable running to it..But i have heard the clutch referred to as a WET clutch..so hence the confusion....
Thats true and i knew that it had a cable running to it..But i have heard the clutch referred to as a WET clutch..so hence the confusion....
wet clutch = clutch shares engine oil.
Most motorcycles, our included, use a wet clutch.

dry clutch = no oil, only friction plates. Cars with a manual transmission use a dry clutch. Ducati is probably most well known for using a dry clutch system.
So I go in for my first service the other day at the dealership I bought the bike from. Its an hour away mind you. I ask them on the phone, will they do the valve check too for the $150 and they say theyll do what ever is in the manual and tell me to drop the bike off one hour early to let it cool so they can check it. I drop it off, ask again, will you do the valve check? Guys like if its in the manual, well do it.

They said it was a 2 hour job, hour and half later...bikes done. They tightened my chain and clutch lever, they were loose. Changed the oil filter and oil. They commented on my Yoshi frame sliders too. Said my wheel pressures were low and to check them ever month.

I get home and the next day I see that they did not tuck the cable in for the turn signals behind the fairing properly so I was like, well its simple enough, ill fix it myself. I proceed to take the fairings off and realize they have put the bolts back in the wrong place. Argg now im mad. Then I see that the bold for the undercowl (needs to be removed to access the oil filter) is loose. Ok upset, but I can tighen it.

Then I look at my cylinder head cover and try to look for signs that they opened it (confirmation they did check my valves). Looking at the crankshaft and timing hole caps, I cant decern if they've been removed.

Well one thing I dont like that honda did is they put marks on just about every bolt and its threaded surface so one can tell if its been opened or not. It is rare to thread a bold back in and get it to line up perfectly again. This helped me this time as I look at the top of the cylinder head cover and see that the PAIR valve bolt hasnt been touched. This was the 100% sign that they DID NOT check my valves. NOT IM FURIOUS! WTF did I pay for, I can do an oil change myself in 30 min, i dont need to pay some shmuk $150 for a 30 min job and $10 of parts.

I guess you get what you pay for. I called Honda and complained and they told me when the dealership opens tomorrow, call them. I will call them and ask for a refund. I am not driving an hour again to get a half ass service. I hope all you all are making sure these shady mechanics are not stealing your money as I see that alot of people are running into dealerships that say it is not needed or don't know how even though it is clearly in the manual!

Anyways, here is a pic of the bolt that tipped me off. If you look closely at the image, near the top left, there is a metal plate and a bolt holding it down. You can see the blue sharpie they used to mark a vertical line through the bold head and the plate it is holding down. EDIT: Opps the pic is sideways, not sure why, not that way on my comp, but rotate 90degrees clockwise.

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If you don't get satisfaction from your dealer...take it up the chain - go to Honda Corps HQ and file a complaint. Tell their HQ what bone heads they have at this dealer and that they did not service your bike as per manual. Good luck!
Booked my bike for its first sevice and the dealer asked for the bike the day before to to allow the valve shims to be checked cold so this service will take 24hrs. This service will cost me £50 for oil nad materials. Talking with sales staff they are saying that the lead time for the cbr250 is very poor and the cbr250ra are like gold dust, this must reflect on Hondas logistics. They also mentioned the new crossover which launched this weekend and still no stock availble to meet orders.

regards

chasp UK
I just did my first service, used premium oil, the motul racing quality, and cleaned and oiled the chain. Also you should definitely consider adjusting the valves. Once the bike breaks in, you will gain more low end hp, and the powerband actually is better once you do this at 8 or 9000rpm.
There are only 2 bolts, 1 hose, and the spark plug wire to get the valve cover off. They did not have to touch that bolt. I did the job myself.

In the picture that is the breather hose, that just slides off and the bolt in that part stays where it is.

The big bolt on the left center and another just like it opposite the spark plug

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Mine was done by the selling dealer, but nothing on the valves. I do notice the throttle cable seems to have a little too much slack and the clutch actually disengages to the point where you need to let it out some in neutral and back to get it into first gear.
Sounds like the valve check should be done, but I would bet on mine it would be very close. I did a 73 Alfa where you had to pull both cams and then the buckets and replace the shims under the buckets with the proper dimension. I did that at 58,000 and 100 k later they were all within .001 of the same measurement.
I also did a lash adjustment on a 94 Civic VX that had 62k miles and had never had the valves adjusted. They were all within tolerances, and I only changed about 40% of them. The Civic was 16 years old when I did the valve lash.
I think I'll check them myself, only way I know for sure it is done right. If I need to change anything it can sit until I get the parts, but it can wait a while as good as my bike is running and I don't ride it hard at all.

regards
Badger
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This helped me this time as I look at the top of the cylinder head cover and see that the PAIR valve bolt hasnt been touched. This was the 100% sign that they DID NOT check my valves. NOT IM FURIOUS! WTF did I pay for, I can do an oil change myself in 30 min, i dont need to pay some shmuk $150 for a 30 min job and $10 of parts.

Just an FYI.. I was able to get the cylinder head cover off to check my valves WITHOUT removing the PAIR valve (as they say to do in the Service Manual).. I only had to disconnect the hose. It made it a little harder to get the cover back on, but it can be done..
There are only 2 bolts, 1 hose, and the spark plug wire to get the valve cover off. They did not have to touch that bolt. I did the job myself.
I'm curious how you got enough access to replace the exhaust shims ? Did you remove all the stuff that sits under the tank ? I didn't really see a way to get in there to do the job with all that stuff in the way (at that point I decided to let the dealer mechanic finish the job)..
Just an FYI.. I was able to get the cylinder head cover off to check my valves WITHOUT removing the PAIR valve (as they say to do in the Service Manual).. I only had to disconnect the hose. It made it a little harder to get the cover back on, but it can be done..
Interesting, but wouldn't that show some signs of opening. I mean you would have to remove the bolt for the radiator to get in that area. I have the yoshi frame sliders which make it hard to get to the two cylinder head bolts. Things would have gotten scratched or some sort of sign. I would think there would be signs of opening the hole caps too.
Interesting, but wouldn't that show some signs of opening. I mean you would have to remove the bolt for the radiator to get in that area. I have the yoshi frame sliders which make it hard to get to the two cylinder head bolts. Things would have gotten scratched or some sort of sign. I would think there would be signs of opening the hole caps too.
The original post mentioned that he looked at the PAIR valve bolts for signs of being removed. I was able to get the cover off without touching the PAIR valve bolts. The radiator bolt, yeah that'd be a sure sign (maybe I missed it if he said that he marked those and the head cover bolts)..
I took extra precautions not to mark up the hole caps when removing mine by using thin cloth around the screw driver head and being really careful..
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