how long did you guys go until your second oil change? i've got probably 600 miles on my first oil change and the shifting is already notchy again
<removed>The manual also says to have your brake fluid and engine coolant replaced every (12,000 miles i think it said) or every 2 years, whichever comes first...doesn't the clutch run off the brake fluid? maybe that might be causing your shifting problems
I've got 1100 on mine now...The manual says to change oil and filter every 8,000 miles or every 12 months...whichever comes first....since I just had my oil/filter changed first week of September...I wont bother to change it again until this time in 2012
And as far as shifting? I cant tell a bit of difference either before the first service or after..it all still feels the same to me....
The manual also says to have your brake fluid and engine coolant replaced every (12,000 miles i think it said) or every 2 years, whichever comes first...doesn't the clutch run off the brake fluid? maybe that might be causing your shifting problems
Thats true and i knew that it had a cable running to it..But i have heard the clutch referred to as a WET clutch..so hence the confusion....The clutch is cable actuated. Isn't hydraulic so it doesn't use fluids.
Making sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly and lubed will help with clutch engagement/disengagement and clutch cable longevity.
wet clutch = clutch shares engine oil.Thats true and i knew that it had a cable running to it..But i have heard the clutch referred to as a WET clutch..so hence the confusion....
I just did my first service, used premium oil, the motul racing quality, and cleaned and oiled the chain. Also you should definitely consider adjusting the valves. Once the bike breaks in, you will gain more low end hp, and the powerband actually is better once you do this at 8 or 9000rpm.Booked my bike for its first sevice and the dealer asked for the bike the day before to to allow the valve shims to be checked cold so this service will take 24hrs. This service will cost me £50 for oil nad materials. Talking with sales staff they are saying that the lead time for the cbr250 is very poor and the cbr250ra are like gold dust, this must reflect on Hondas logistics. They also mentioned the new crossover which launched this weekend and still no stock availble to meet orders.
regards
chasp UK
This helped me this time as I look at the top of the cylinder head cover and see that the PAIR valve bolt hasnt been touched. This was the 100% sign that they DID NOT check my valves. NOT IM FURIOUS! WTF did I pay for, I can do an oil change myself in 30 min, i dont need to pay some shmuk $150 for a 30 min job and $10 of parts.
I'm curious how you got enough access to replace the exhaust shims ? Did you remove all the stuff that sits under the tank ? I didn't really see a way to get in there to do the job with all that stuff in the way (at that point I decided to let the dealer mechanic finish the job)..There are only 2 bolts, 1 hose, and the spark plug wire to get the valve cover off. They did not have to touch that bolt. I did the job myself.
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Interesting, but wouldn't that show some signs of opening. I mean you would have to remove the bolt for the radiator to get in that area. I have the yoshi frame sliders which make it hard to get to the two cylinder head bolts. Things would have gotten scratched or some sort of sign. I would think there would be signs of opening the hole caps too.Just an FYI.. I was able to get the cylinder head cover off to check my valves WITHOUT removing the PAIR valve (as they say to do in the Service Manual).. I only had to disconnect the hose. It made it a little harder to get the cover back on, but it can be done..
The original post mentioned that he looked at the PAIR valve bolts for signs of being removed. I was able to get the cover off without touching the PAIR valve bolts. The radiator bolt, yeah that'd be a sure sign (maybe I missed it if he said that he marked those and the head cover bolts)..Interesting, but wouldn't that show some signs of opening. I mean you would have to remove the bolt for the radiator to get in that area. I have the yoshi frame sliders which make it hard to get to the two cylinder head bolts. Things would have gotten scratched or some sort of sign. I would think there would be signs of opening the hole caps too.