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Does anyone have a copy ofthe CBR250R service manual yet?

there are a few bits of service information I would like to find out about my new bike..! :)
 

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I downloaded this Thai version and it was almost useless.

Anyone got the real one? with mircofiche diagrams and all?
 

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I've seen that manual.
It seems to be a little different from the U.S. manual.

For one thing, the U.S. manual specifies the oil viscosity to be either
10W-30 or 10W-40 instead of 10w-30 or 20W-40 in that manual.

Also, that manual doesn't make it clear that to adjust the valves without removing the cams, rocker arm shaft removal is required...

hmmm....
 

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Valve Rockers

I agree. I also found some blogs about the engine and learned that on the 'clutch' side of the engine there are two cover screws (Allen socket head) near the valve cover seam that give access to the pivot rods of the rocker arms. I only removed the exhaust one and am assuming the intake one is the same. If you remove the cover, you can then thread a 10mm bolt into the end of the pivot rod and pull the rod out just enough to let the rocker slip back exposing the shims. To reinstall, hold the rocker arm in place and push the rod back into position and put the cover back on. Worked like a charm.

Working with the shims is tricky; a magnet rod is an absolute necessity. I used the same magnet rod to magnetize a screwdriver for putting the shim back into place; the magnet rod itself was just too strong. The only usable access is if you remove the gas tank, the rubber shields and disconnect and tie some cables out of the way.

The manual did provide the details required to depressurize and disconnect the gas line. So, I guess it was a combination of a number of sites.

The valve cover gasket is sealed to the head surface at two places and I had to break the sealant as there was just no way to get the gasket back into the groove in the cover while putting it all together. I didn't redo the sealant as I need to take it all apart again once I get the correct shims. It is not leaking though.

In hindsight, I learned that you only need to remove the upper side fairings and the gas tank cover. The fairings are each held on by three screws; one down at the bottom on the inside, one on the side and one at the front accessed from the front. It then pops out of the clips. There are two different types of screws; the long shouldered one goes at the front. Careful with the signal wires; they are color coded.

You must take off the cover at the front of the gas tank to gain access to the tank bolt up there. Remove the two top screws beside the gas tank at the front (you can see them when sitting on the bike. Then flex things a bit and pop the cover off; it has two rubber grommets holding it.

If you end up doing this, can you take a picture of the rubber covers and post them? I don't think I have the top one in place correctly.

Hope this helps.
 

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I'm using my bike only for commuting so I have about a month to go before I need to check the valves.

One thing I've noted is that (according to the manual) the fuel tank can be propped up lifting the front and placing a bar between it and the frame. Doing this requires that only the breather hose and the drain hose get disconnected (no need to depressurize the line(s)). I'm hoping that lifting the tank will be enough to get access to the rear valves.

They also recommend removing the PAIR valve before attempting to remove the cylinder head cover, but I'm hoping that I don't need to do this. Did you leave the PAIR valve assembly attached when you removed the cover ?

They also recommend using new gaskets when reinstalling the rocker arm shafts, but I'm hoping I can get away with reuse and no oil leaks. We'll see...
 

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I didn't read the bit about the PAIR valve... I managed to get the cover off with it in place. It was tricky but with care it can be maneuvered out without scratching anything.

I think you will wish you had removed the tank. The procedure is in the manual. The 'quick' disconnect is a designer's cruel joke IMHO :) You must pull on the black tab until the rubber split ring portions slip out of the compression collet and the thing is hanging by the loop of rubber. Then you can compress the tabs of the collet and remove the hose. It is a fuel line so there will be some dripping from what is in the hose. The fuel pump wiring connector must also be removed. Make sure the battery -ive is disconnected.

To reassemble, I put the rubber split ring into position on the collet and put both onto the stem and then pushed the quick connect on; it went very easily (so I guess it is a 'quick connect'). Carefully put it all back together. Tested for fuel leaks and it fired up as easily as ever. I was riding for hours today it with no problems.
 

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ugh.. for the tank, maybe first I'll try the trick that I did with my Fury.

Leaving all the hoses connected to the tank (towards the rear), I just lifted the front end of the tank and laid it on a stool on the left side of the bike at a right angle from where it was. All hoses still attached to the tank, but the tank completely out of the way for access to all of the valves. Just have to be careful NOT to knock the tank off of the stool !

Hope I can do that with this bike..
 

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