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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone adjusted their chain yet? I now have just over 1,000 miles and I did a check of mine last night and it was at 1 1/4....1/16 over the spec stated in the manual of 13/16 to 1 3/16..

After I loosened everything and adjusted the adjuster nut a half a turn clockwise on each side I measured the chain again and saw it was now too tight..so I loosened it..remeasured and its right at 13/16 if you push hard on the chain while measuring...

the adjuster nut is a 15mm wrench, the lock nut is a 12mm...the axle nut i'm not sure...didnt have a mm socket big enough so i used a 15/16..it worked just fine.

I also noticed that both of the adjuster lines on the little metal plates were NOT the same on both sides after my adjustment so I loosened the passenger side again to make it match the driver side..I don't know if it was ever the same as it should have been or if it moved when I had everything loose.

I also found that the lock nut and adjuster nut were already loose on the driver side before my wrench ever touched it and I was amazed at how easy the axle nut broke loose and turned...the manual says to tighten to 65 lbs torque, i dont have a torque wrench so I just tightened it down really good when I was done (alot tighter than it was when i loosened it)
 

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I am interested to hear more about this too. I was just getting ready to check my chain. Also, the sales guy at my dealer said not to worry about maintenace on the chain. What is really needed when it comes to lubrication/cleaning? I'll report back on tension findings.
 

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Adjusted mine at 3000 miles. It had about 1 1/2" inches of play. Helm manual says to keep it between 0.8" and 1.2". If you don't have a torque wrench you really should not be messing around with it when your dealer can service it for you.
If you do have a wrench this is what the Helm manual says:
Place bike on side stand and put in N.
Loosen rear axle. Loosen lock nuts. Turn adjusting nuts till correct slack is obtained. (I did 1/4 turns at a time with a crescent wrench and kept checking slack every time by holding a ruler up to the mid chain area and pulling it up and down). Make sure index lines on both adjusting plates are aligned. Tighten axle back to 65 ft-lbs. Hold adjusting nuts and tighten lock nuts to 15 ft-lbs. Re-check chain slack.
*Tips* DO NOT clean the chain with anything but O-ring specified cleaner (ie.no gas, alcohol, ect). DO NOT use WD-40. WD-40 is not a load bearing lube and also breaks up the grease inside the chain. Use a lube specific to motorcycles (PJ1 Blue Label is the best yet IMO). Keeping the chain properly cleaned and lubed (every 500 miles) will help you get the most miles out of it and minimize stretching.
 

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Also, the sales guy at my dealer said not to worry about maintenace on the chain.
That sales guy should not be allowed around motorcycles:rolleyes: That's like saying not to worry about tire pressure.
 

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Chain

I adjusted my chain to the minumum spec at 400 miles to try to minimize the drive train lash and it hasn't changed again in 2000 miles. You don't need a torque wrench if you know how to tighten a bolt. I torqued the axle nut to 65 ft/lbs but it felt ridiculously loose at that setting so I tightened it a bit more so it at least felt snug. After you tighten the big bolt, the little adjuster bolts just need to be locked down together so they don't vibrate loose. The CBR250R is still prone to feel like it has more drive train lash than other bikes but is something you easily get used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
If you don't have a torque wrench you really should not be messing around with it when your dealer can service it for you.
When a dealer charges $70 an hour...charges $110 for an oil change that actually costs less than $15..I totally 100% disagree with your comment..
.I dont know if you have ever changed the tire on a car but most of them have torque specs on tightening the lug nuts as well but when is the last time you used one for that or seen your mechanic use one?
I am not about to make an appointment then pay my dealer $35 to adjust my chain slack when I just asked them to check it just 2 weeks ago and they told me they did and it was good. Apparently it wasnt or it was at least at the very maximum range when they checked it and they should have adjusted it then..Im betting they didnt even bother to check.

By the way...regarding how to measure, I didnt see any where that it said to pull the chain up and down..to the contrary...both the illustration in the manual and on the chain guard on the motorcycle shows to measure chain slack by placing a ruler half way between the sprockets on the chain and measure by pushing UP ONLY on the chain.
 

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So this chain adjustment has to be done frequently? I got not tools or skills :eek:
does it depend on how you ride or just keep measuring until you notice it has too much slack? I plan on taking a long trip ( few thousand miles) on this bike, had not though about how to adjust the chain while on the road :confused:
 

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lubing and adjusting the chain on the road with no center stand really gets to be a pain. This is why I am going with the scottoiler.
 

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When a dealer charges $70 an hour...charges $110 for an oil change that actually costs less than $15..I totally 100% disagree with your comment..
.I dont know if you have ever changed the tire on a car but most of them have torque specs on tightening the lug nuts as well but when is the last time you used one for that or seen your mechanic use one?
1st off if your dealer is charging you $110 for an oil change you need to start packing your a$$ with Vaseline cause he is F'ing you.... or take an easier route and go else where.... basic point.... your getting ripped off. I think my bike oil change was around 40 cause I used synth.
Second of all YES my mechanic does torque all the bolts on my car tires. I go to the same guy for tires and oil changes and anything else that needs to be done. NEVER had a problem with any of my vehicles. BTW... this guy is not only a good mechanic but also an up to date one. He has been working on cars for 20+ yrs and still renews his training often to keep up on trends. He has a wall in his shop with nothing but ASE and Import/domestic training certificates.
If money is your huge concern just spend the $50 - $100 on a quality torque wrench and think of it as an investment.... then you can wrench your ride at home.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dont let worrying about the chain slack keep you up at night Ibex250R...the manual says to not ride if the chain slack is more than 1 15/16...almost 2 inches...so thats a whole lot of slack after the max 1 3/16 has been reached, ask ur mechanic to check it next time you take it to be serviced if you do that..cuz changing the oil sounds alot more complex to me than adjusting chain slack....
I figured mine wouldnt need even to be adjusted for a couple thousand miles..(i was wrong) im guessing i wont even bother checking it again for another 1000 or so and dont figure i would need to adjust again for many thousands more after that.

And your right Mongoose..I am getting fu#@ed over really good by the only Powerhouse Honda dealer within a 100 miles of here...thats why they will never see my bike again and I will do all the maintenance myself from here on out until the next valve check at 24k miles anyway.
 

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2000

So this chain adjustment has to be done frequently? I got not tools or skills :eek:
does it depend on how you ride or just keep measuring until you notice it has too much slack? I plan on taking a long trip ( few thousand miles) on this bike, had not though about how to adjust the chain while on the road :confused:
You won't need to adjust the chain during a 2000 mile trip if you start with the minimum slack. You will want to spray some lube on it every 500 miles. Spray what you can, walk the bike to the next dry piece of chain and spray again. It only takes a couple minutes to go all the way around.
 

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Go to the maximum slack not the minimum.
 

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lubing and adjusting the chain on the road with no center stand really gets to be a pain. This is why I am going with the scottoiler.
Scottoilers were around 20-30 yrs ago b4 decent clear, no mess Motul/Belray/Castrol etc chainlube was developed.
Just put a trolley jack under the suspension lingage at home to lift the wheel off the ground...(if you dont have a stand) hey presto.. no mess.. no fuss.. chain is lubed.

Once every 500km or 2 tanks of fuel... sorted... we're not racing the ISDE here.
 

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your right Mongoose..I am getting fu#@ed over really good by the only Powerhouse Honda dealer within a 100 miles of here...thats why they will never see my bike again and I will do all the maintenance myself from here on out until the next valve check at 24k miles anyway.
Good call. Also, might wanna consider spending the $70 or so on the HELM Inc. manual. The price you pay for it will pay for itself the first time you do your valve adjustments from home. Just got mine a week or so back. Get ready to buy some new tools ;)
 

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Why adjust to the maximum slack just before you head out on a trip? Will the chain shrink.
Because 22hp will not strech a new Oring chain within 6,000km service intervals if lubed...if you are constantly having to tighten it,, theres ya problem.

Why adjust it to minimum? THATS what causes it to stretch, wear out guides, load the driveshaft sprocket, wear sprockets, create friction, and create snatch.

And always check tension with someone is sitting on the bike or allow for full suspension movement.
 

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Auffit, I like the oiler for 3,000 mile trips. Trips which I also like, and leave the jack at home.
Fair enough.... if you cant take a small $10 can of lube and lean a small bike on its stand and spin the wheel a couple turns.
 

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unweighted

Because 22hp will not strech a new Oring chain within 6,000km service intervals if lubed...if you are constantly having to tighten it,, theres ya problem.

Why adjust it to minimum? THATS what causes it to stretch, wear out guides, load the driveshaft sprocket, wear sprockets, create friction, and create snatch.

And always check tension with someone is sitting on the bike or allow for full suspension movement.
20-30mm of slack with the bike on the side stand. The spec is for an unweighted bike. There is too much total lash in the driveline already. I adjusted my chain to the minimum. It still has 20mm slack. Adjusting to the minimum will not increase wear.
 
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