[KeepTheFeather]

So a bit of a nooby question but im gonna do my first chain adjustment tomorow and I was wondering if its possible to "crack" loose the right side rear axle nut instead of the left side.
I know the manual shows the left nut should be the one loosened while holding the right one in place but i only have a socket wrench long enough to loosen the right nut (24mm) while my wrench for the left is short enough that it can only hold it in place. Hence the idea of doing it inverted. Thanks

 

[Tamir]

right side rear axle nut

Right is left & left us right?
Who do I have to believe, to the parts booklet, or to the service book?
Answer: In this case, it is possible both ways (Not critical at all):

if its possible to "crack" loose the right side rear axle nut instead of the left side?

Answer to your question: The support torque on the head of the screw (19 mm) is lower than the opening torque of the nut (24 mm). Therefore it is not recommended to load all the torque (88Nm) on the small head screw (19mm), it may ruin it.

The two wrench (19 and 24) are in the motorcycle's original tool set, and I've already been able to adjustment a friend's chain with them, so that the O.E.M wrench lever is long enough to generate the required torque, and it's recommended to work with gloves.

I do not recommend for you to apply a large torque on the small screw head(19mm). There are ways to add momentum to your 24 wrench, maybe with a pipe, etc.

Please be patient and work with the right tools.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

I know my motorcycle was serviced by a mechanic who specializes in combos, so now I see that for me it was assembled upside down (right is left & left us right). Not critical at all:
View attachment 45249 View attachment 45248

Answer to your question: The support torque on the head of the screw (19 mm) is lower than the opening torque of the nut (24 mm). Therefore it is not recommended to load all the torque (88Nm) on the small head screw (19mm), it may ruin it.

The two wrench (19 and 24) are in the motorcycle's original tool set, and I've already been able to adjustment a friend's chain with them, so that the O.E.M wrench lever is long enough to generate the required torque, and it's recommended to work with gloves.

I do not recommend for you to apply a large torque on the small screw head(19mm). There are ways to add momentum to your 24 wrench, maybe with a pipe, etc.

Please be patient and work with the right tools.

Ohhh wait wait. My motorcycle was assembled like that too! So the 24mm is on the right aswell. I didnt know that was the one for 88nm. Is that case its all good right? I crack the right 24mm bolt and do it a normal chain tighten, dont even have to touch the left side? Thanks so much for your answer.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Thanks I see now that the rear axle nut that I was supposed to crack is actually on the right like your pictures! Unlike what is shown on the manual or in some videos.
So I will do just that and crack the right 24mm nut, not even gonna touch the 19mm on the left. Thanks!

 

[Tamir]

not even gonna touch the 19mm on the left.

You may need to light support on the 19 mm head screw.
Right or left does not matter, but as it is written on the OWNER'S MANUAL p.64 section 3:
"Loosen the rear axle NUT(24mm)".
Because that(24mm) is where most of the torque is.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

You may need to light support on the 19 mm head screw.
Right or left does not matter, but as it is written on the OWNER'S MANUAL p.64 section 3:
"Loosen the rear axle NUT(24mm)".
Because that(24mm) is where most of the torque is.
View attachment 45254

Yep in my case the right side 24mm 😅 maybe since im getting new tyres soon ill ask the mechanic to flip the assembly the right way?
But yeah sounds like a good idea and yeah ill do that especially because i did not find torque specs for the smaller one, id rather tighten to spec.

 

[DannoXYZ]

I prefer to have nut on right side. Easier to put wrench on and step on it with foot.

 

[Tamir]

Yep in my case the right side 24mm 😅 maybe since im getting new tyres soon ill ask the mechanic to flip the assembly the right way?

The "vote" summary of the manufacturer's sources, and the result is:
3 votes for claim: "24 on left".
1 Vote for the claim: "24 on right".

And I say, in this particular case both ways are good and possible.

But yeah sounds like a good idea and yeah ill do that especially because i did not find torque specs for the smaller one, id rather tighten to spec.

The torque is the same torque on both sides (88Nm), and it determined not from the size of the wrench(19mm) but from the diameter of the screw head.
Note that the screw head (19 mm) has a (full diameter) FLANGE!

The FLANGE creates a friction AND torque that matches the torque of the nut side (24 mm). The small screw head(19mm) is there only to assist in the release/(Or in the initial tightening) when the friction is low and then the screw without the support on the screw head(19mm) has turned and will not allow the nut to continue rotating out/(Or in). The small head screw (19mm) is also used for additional support the final tightening (additional support for the torque that made by the FLANGE).

 

[Tamir]

I prefer to have nut on right side. Easier to put wrench on and step on it with foot.

Yap, It is legitimate to use this type of preference
Just need to careful not over tighten.
And since the motorcycle is on a jack, care must be taken not to turn it over, and to tighten it/(Or loosen it) when the jack is off.

P.S. This practices is common in cars.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Yap, It is legitimate to use this type of preference
Just need to careful not over tighten.
And since the motorcycle is on a jack, care must be taken not to turn it over, and to tighten it/(Or loosen it) when the jack is off.

P.S. This practices is common in cars.

I can do it on side stand right? I dont have a jack or paddock stand but manual says I can tighten chain with bike on side stand so ¯\(ツ)/¯
And yeah I can see it being a little easier doing it from the right

 

[Tamir]

I can do it on side stand right?

YES! You do that job on side stand.
(My comment refers to foot use and special caution in such use, especially with being on a jack)

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Ohhh ok thanks Tamir!

 

[jkv357]

A good description and video showing the correct way to make chain adjustments and also keep the axle properly aligned -

How to Adjust and Align a Motorcycle Chain - CanyonChasers

Your chain needs to be adjusted properly. Of course, your owner’s manual will have exact requirements for your bike, but the rule of thumb is about 1 to 1.5 inches of slack. But what does that mean and why is that important? Slack is how much the chain will move up and down freely at a point...

www.canyonchasers.net

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Ok so I tightened the chain but for some reason the back cover of the right side swingarm is a bit loose. The left side cover is tight but the right side isnt. I tightened it to 25mm chain slack at the tightest link spot, i checked alignement by measuring the distance between the center of both sprockets on left and right, measuring the screw in the middle of the adjusting bolts and checking the markings on the side of the swingarm, everything checked out. And yet I feel as if the right side is too loose because that back cover plate is loose, i dont think it was like that before either. Im really confused ngl. Anyone know what I should do? Lol

 

[Tamir]

Ok so I tightened the chain but for some reason the back cover of the right side swingarm is a bit loose. The left side cover is tight but the right side isnt. I tightened it to 25mm chain slack at the tightest link spot, i checked alignement by measuring the distance between the center of both sprockets on left and right, measuring the screw in the middle of the adjusting bolts and checking the markings on the side of the swingarm, everything checked out. And yet I feel as if the right side is too loose because that back cover plate is loose, i dont think it was like that before either. Im really confused ngl. Anyone know what I should do? Lol

I'm not sure I understood the question. If the main shaft and wheel are aligned correctly, and if the tension on the chain at the most tightest point is also normal,
then you done a good job.
If the CUP (see picture below) is loose, then tighten the NUTS that "attached" it to the swingarm(The Adjustment Nuts), and that's all.

 

[Tamir]

the back cover of the right side swingarm is a bit loose.

i checked alignement

everything checked out

It happens that everything moves while tightening the main nut(24mm wrench), this is an acquired skill and patience is required here.
Re check everything!

One way to help secure the wheel forward while tightening the main nut is to push a rag between the chain and the rear sprocket (see attached video):

 

[jkv357]

Ok so I tightened the chain but for some reason the back cover of the right side swingarm is a bit loose. The left side cover is tight but the right side isnt. I tightened it to 25mm chain slack at the tightest link spot, i checked alignement by measuring the distance between the center of both sprockets on left and right, measuring the screw in the middle of the adjusting bolts and checking the markings on the side of the swingarm, everything checked out. And yet I feel as if the right side is too loose because that back cover plate is loose, i dont think it was like that before either. Im really confused ngl. Anyone know what I should do? Lol

You didn't pull the axle forward with something in the sprocket, like suggested in the video.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Ok so I put a rag to create tension and tightened it and everything was looking great so thank you for the tip, I completely forgot to do that.
BUT
I was about to finally be done and call it a done job. Annd just my luck another issue surfaced. When I move the bike forward or reverse the chain makes a horrible croaking noise, it feels like the chain or the sprocket or something is grinding somewhere, I sat on the bike and I can even feel it through the seat. It didnt used to do that obvs btw. My first reaction was that the wheel must be missaligned, I checked the pivot to axle nut length, looks fine. Checked the side markings, looked fine. Sooo im at a bit of a loss. My theories are that either I tightened the axle nut too tight/not tight enough or maybe because the grey aluminum plate behind the exhaust touches my measuring tape pushing it out a tad when checking alignement and perphaps that messed with the value of the right side however im a bit skeptical. Im gonna have at it tomorow morning and post updates. In the meantime any ideas would be helpfull lol.
Heres a video I took of the croaking/grinding sound:

 

[Tamir]

Ok so I put a rag to create tension and tightened it and everything was looking great so thank you for the tip, I completely forgot to do that.
BUT
I was about to finally be done and call it a done job. Annd just my luck another issue surfaced. When I move the bike forward or reverse the chain makes a horrible croaking noise, it feels like the chain or the sprocket or something is grinding somewhere, I sat on the bike and I can even feel it through the seat. It didnt used to do that obvs btw. My first reaction was that the wheel must be missaligned, I checked the pivot to axle nut length, looks fine. Checked the side markings, looked fine. Sooo im at a bit of a loss. My theories are that either I tightened the axle nut too tight/not tight enough or maybe because the grey aluminum plate behind the exhaust touches my measuring tape pushing it out a tad when checking alignement and perphaps that messed with the value of the right side however im a bit skeptical. Im gonna have at it tomorow morning and post updates. In the meantime any ideas would be helpfull lol.
Heres a video I took of the croaking/grinding sound:

Thanks for sharing and investing in video photography!
Can you please upload a side photo to YouTube, and do the chain slack test in front of the camera? In my opinion there is no chain slack at all. Zero chain slack.
If so, you need to readjustment.

 

[KeepTheFeather]

Chain slack test. Im doing it midway between the sprockets. It looks to me like the link pin moves 25mm, but when I do the test I put force on the link, like I push hard up and down. Am i using too much force for the test?