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Chain Cleaning & Lubrication How To Video

17013 Views 28 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  CampaignBrain
Just me on my first time cleaning and lubricating the chain on my 2013 Honda CBR250RA. Credits go out to numerous YouTube videos before this with tips on how to do it. I used kerosene instead of WD40.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99W7wp4y04c
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Nice video. Well made. Perhaps it's the 3rd cup of coffee I just finished, but you should allow double-speed playback. The video goes a bit slow. :)
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Nice video. Well made. Perhaps it's the 3rd cup of coffee I just finished, but you should allow double-speed playback. The video goes a bit slow. :)
For sure man. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Just me on my first time cleaning and lubricating the chain on my 2013 Honda CBR250RA.
Not a bad video. I use kerosene too. I usually take the front sprocket cover off too and clean all the gunk out of there.

I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but your chain seems fairly tight, doesn't look like the usual 25-35mm of freeplay.
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Not a bad video. I use kerosene too. I usually take the front sprocket cover off too and clean all the gunk out of there.

I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but your chain seems fairly tight, doesn't look like the usual 25-35mm of freeplay.
Thanks for the tip about cleaning the front sprocket too. I'll make sure I do that next time. I did measure the freeplay from 3 different locations of the bottom chain, and I thought it was within 1 inch. I'll check again next weekend.

Thanks for watching!
Interesting. I haven't been removing the hugger when cleaning/lubing my chain. I'll try that next time. That should also make cleaning the wheel easier.
You don't have to remove it, but you can get the chain a bit cleaner and get the lube on more evenly. I usually don't take it off, but I'm also usually in a hurry and pressed for time. My grunge brush does most of the dirty work for me. :)
You don't have to remove it, but you can get the chain a bit cleaner and get the lube on more evenly. I usually don't take it off, but I'm also usually in a hurry and pressed for time. My grunge brush does most of the dirty work for me. :)
You ever notice the grunge brush screwing up orings? Because I've had an RK chain for ~4k miles and had at least 6 orings come out already, and when I contacted RK about it they were telling me it was from the brush.
Said they would replace it for me, but I had to do a bunch of crap and wasn't worth it. (Remove, mail it, wait with no chain, get the new chain 2 weeks later, then install. With classes starting, no way) Said they would sell one at a significant discount, which was $42 + shipping and its $58 + free shipping on Amazon so yeah wasn't much of a discount.

But yeah, I think that brush is a little stiff now I think about it, I don't think ill use it again on a new chain. My original chain also died from orings coming out, which now I think about it was around when I bought the brush.
I used a grunge brush on my old chain which I replaced due to orings coming off. I have since decided to change tactics and use a soft toothbrush instead. So far so good. Using the toothbrush may take longer, but it allows for more precision.
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If a brush isn't destroying your o-rings it's pushing crap between the o-ring and link. This is a bad thing! The primary lubricant in your chain is in an area that should not be exposed to the world. Compromising an o-ring is compromising the integrity of the chain. Keep in mind that a chain is only as good as it's weakest link.

I skip removal of the chain guards all together and pull the rear tire. That gives me enough slack that I can drop the chain into a paint trough and have more than 1/2 of the chain in the working area at a time. I'll wash down the exposed chain with kerosene and give it a good wipe with a rag. A visual inspection as I work through it will let me know if there are big bits of debris I might want to work out. If there is debris a simple manipulation of the chain should expose it, allowing it to be wiped off without touching the o-rings.
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Thanks for the additional comments. I've seen the grunge brush before I made this video and was thinking of getting it to make chain scrubbing easier but I thought it was too expensive.

Also, I will try cleaning without removing the chain guard. I guess I could do that between full chain clean/lube jobs, for example, after riding through rain or if I'm in a hurry.
Hey guys ive only just started riding bikes. How often should one clean an lube a chain? What sort of signs am i looking for?
Hey guys ive only just started riding bikes. How often should one clean an lube a chain? What sort of signs am i looking for?
There are a lot of different opinions on what a reasonable interval is, but I'll usually lube the chain every 250 miles, and clean & lube every 1000 miles.

If you ride in rain or on wet roads, you'll probably want to lube the chain more often than that 250 mile interval.
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Thank you ill give cleaning it a go in another 1000kms. :)
3
Dealing with surface rust

I rode my bike a couple of weeks ago on a nice day after the usual wintry weather we have around here. The roads still had a light dusting of salt but I didn't think much of it.

Today I went to inspect my bike in preparation for riding to work tomorrow. To my dismay, I found a surprising amount of surface rust on my chain. We have had periods of changing temperatures that cause condensing humidity...apparently moisture collected on the chain and reacted with the steel and oxygen in the presence of road salt dust.

I decided to try some special aircraft anti-corrosion spray that was recommended to me by some guys in the UK who ride in nasty weather quite a lot during the winter months. They like to spray the ACF-50 on the exposed metal parts of the bike and leave it on all winter, then wash it off in the spring. I decided to see if the ACF-50 might work as a rust-remover in addition to rust inhibitor.

I sprayed it on, and brushed the rusted areas lightly with a soft brass-bristled brush. The results proved very satisfactory.





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I'd be careful with the brass bristled brush. They can score the o-rings. I only use nylon or some plastic brush on my chain from paranoia. But that ACF-50 stuff is actually some pretty cool stuff. It would have been interesting to see the ACF-50 on part of the chain vs. just a kerosene scrub on the other.
Good point to be careful with the brass-bristled brush. As I mentioned, I used it on the rusted areas, primarily the side plates. I was amazed how quickly the ACF-50 seemed to dissolve the oxidation.
Thanks for the additional comments. I've seen the grunge brush before I made this video and was thinking of getting it to make chain scrubbing easier but I thought it was too expensive.
I'm pretty sure I picked one up off of eBay for around $5.
So is there a recommended brush to use?
I'm new and i don't want to stuff things up :)

Or just Kero and a rag?
You can also use worn out tooth brushes.

I wash my chain with dish detergent and an old sponge, rinse, dry (paper towels) and lube with ATF.
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