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Automatic Transmission Fluid, it is designed to keep seals supple, and does not attract grit like oil.

It does require more frequent application than the sprays, but, it is easy to apply with an old sock top and a neoprene glove.

Also, my road bike has a centerstand. :D
 
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also, two used toothbrushes tied together, bristles in..
easy on o-rings and gets top and bottom same time..

chains, transmit power most efficiently,,
ie, when aligned and running smoothly..

listen carefully after aligning etc,
they will hum along happily..
 

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I didn’t know that I could score the o rings by using a brass brush. My chain looked the same way and I scrubbed it pretty roughly to get all the rust off. Should I worry about the chain breaking while I’m riding now? If I wanted to replace the chain where do you guys recommend getting one? Thanks
 

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I tend to buy chains from non-OEM sources.

OEM parts are usually purchased from https://www.hondaparts-direct.com

You need to investigate options other than the Honda dealership. But, watch shipping charges. I typically order inexpensive items from my local dealer as there is no shipping and the net cost is less.
 

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small rubber o-rings seal in lubricating grease..
not designed to withstand strong brushing..
[think of scrubbing dirty fingernails
compared to eyelids or whatever]

dont use solvents, petrol, brake fluid/cleaner etc..
wd-40 handy for water displacement and as
a targeted general fluid for moving dirt etc..
[or kero, detergent etc, and a soft brush]

o-ring safe spray lube is for chain plate surfaces..
think of external plate rust as a separate job,,
using different tools for a different outcome..
[check/clean buildup on sprocket/s]

even just a quick spray of chain lube
is [much] better than nothing..
 

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small rubber o-rings seal in lubricating grease..
not designed to withstand strong brushing..
[think of scrubbing dirty fingernails
compared to eyelids or whatever]

dont use solvents, petrol, brake fluid/cleaner etc..
wd-40 handy for water displacement and as
a targeted general fluid for moving dirt etc..
[or kero, detergent etc, and a soft brush]

o-ring safe spray lube is for chain plate surfaces..
think of external plate rust as a separate job,,
using different tools for a different outcome..
[check/clean buildup on sprocket/s]

even just a quick spray of chain lube
is [much] better than nothing..

I started using a chain spray wax. You spray it on from the can when the chain is warm immediately after a ride, and then you let it soak in. It is not supposed to fly off, unlike oil.
 

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Thank you for this helpful video.

I think I will only bother to take the plastic chain guard off maybe every 5000 miles for a deep cleaning.

Else i have been lubricating the chain every 500 miles and cleaning it with Kerosine every 1000 miles (taking off the front sprocket cover as well during that cleaning) and then lubricating.

To clean and lube the chain is an inconvenience so I have calculated this interval to be the best compromise between effort spent and maintaining a long healthy life of the chain. I certainly hope to get at least 15,000 miles out of the stock chain.

I am grateful for this thread that talks about the importance of not VIGOROUSLY scrubbing the chain with a brass or steel brush. Too bad I did one session (like an idiot) where I scrubbed the living hell out of the chain to remove some rust spots (before seeing this thread) .

Ooops.

Also i think old newspapers do just as well a job for this task and they are free (compared to blue shop towels)

And the cheap $5 ebay generic grunge brush. So far so good
 
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