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Discussion Starter #1
Really a question for shisoshin as he has had both 250 + 300.

If the 250 chain kit is 14/38 and 108 links the 300's 14/36 is also listed as 108 links, is this correct or is it 106 links as you would not have the adjustment range for the chain otherwise?
 

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hi lemmy - well mate, i never swapped chains on my 250/300
but at first glance i reckon if someone like the sprocket center
list kits with chain length of 108 you can be reasonably
sure that they will fit..

changing sprockets has been a fairly hot topic here
and other forums so no doubt someone will
have direct experience and valuable advice..

bear in mind tho that you can get chains
at any length or pitch you choose
together with sprockets of different
sizes and metals/weights etc..
 

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I tend to order big and modify to fit. Often the 120 link chain is cheaper than the "right sized" chain. With a hand drill disk grinder you can remove rivet ends and fit the chain to whatever sprocket set you are using.

I took the rear sprocket on my CRF230L from 39 to 48 teeth that way.
 

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Really a question for shisoshin as he has had both 250 + 300.

If the 250 chain kit is 14/38 and 108 links the 300's 14/36 is also listed as 108 links, is this correct or is it 106 links as you would not have the adjustment range for the chain otherwise?
The 2 tooth difference between the 38T and 36T sprockets doesn't amount to much of a difference in the diameter of those sprockets, so therefore the 108 link chain length works for both applications.

Incidentally, when you order a replacement chain from Honda, it is supplied in a 120 link length. They do this because it will fit various models simply by cutting it to the proper length.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I'm not disagreeing with either of you, in my mind if you reduce the rear sprocket by two teeth, thats equivalent of a link in the top and bottom run of the chain, at 16mm roller pitch thats 16mm of adjustment to take up excluding the reduction in diameter of the sprocket itself.

Begs the question, would it not be better to reduce the chain length to 106 teeth? rather than possibly running out of adjustment, and does it make a mockery of the markers that says you chain needs replacing as you got there 16mm earlier on a cbr300!!

5/8" pitch is converted to 15.87mm
 

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even tho one or two teeth may be added or removed
either end, this wont make a huge difference to
the distance between countershaft and rear sprocket
centers where the movement happens, and thus
where adjustment happens..

for starters you have a top and bottom run
along the same line [of adjustment]
so whatever the equation one extra or lesser
tooth would influence that distance by
half a tooth[?] ditto two teeth/links
woiuld be halved [roughly] to one
in terms of distance center to center
[i would think]..

whatever number of teeth must be absorbed
around both sprockets [and half of the run]..
so sprocket diameter if different [?]
would also be a factor..
[think toothless sprockets]

that would seem to indicate that [as mm noted]
it wouldnt make that much of a difference..

but its still up to you as to whatever chain length
you choose/prefer.. as mentioned chains come
in different or infinite lengths to be cut
to your choice..

[my maths is but rudimentary, but the principle
seems about right, as to chain runs etc]
 

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Well I'm not disagreeing with either of you, in my mind if you reduce the rear sprocket by two teeth, thats equivalent of a link in the top and bottom run of the chain, at 16mm roller pitch thats 16mm of adjustment to take up excluding the reduction in diameter of the sprocket itself.

Begs the question, would it not be better to reduce the chain length to 106 teeth? rather than possibly running out of adjustment, and does it make a mockery of the markers that says you chain needs replacing as you got there 16mm earlier on a cbr300!!

5/8" pitch is converted to 15.87mm
As a general rule of thumb, you can figure that a given chain length (which is always an even number) will cover 3 rear sprocket sizes, assuming the countershaft sprocket is the same...

33,34,35 - 106 link

36,37,38 - 108 link

39,40,41 - 110 link

42,43,44 - 112 link
 

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Really a question for shisoshin as he has had both 250 + 300.

If the 250 chain kit is 14/38 and 108 links the 300's 14/36 is also listed as 108 links, is this correct or is it 106 links as you would not have the adjustment range for the chain otherwise?
Hey Lemmy, I ride a 300R and can tell you it has a 108 link chain standard. Ive dropped one tooth on my sprockets from standard and at 8K miles on the clock I'm nearly out of adjustment.
 

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Then measure the chain link to link. If it is still in spec, cut out a link or two and keep going!

*I'm not singling anyone out here, and me No disrespect in the following......

This thread is reminicient of a "best oil" thread. Chain length is not, nor needs rocket science type debate. "Use what works best for you" definitely applies here.
If I changed sprockets, and if I were sure I could cut x links off my new chain and it would work/fit/function, I would cut it off in the beginning because 1. I am lazy and don't want to rivet my chain twice in its life, and 2. Master links are not free, and I, unfortunately, am not independently wealthy. .....but again, your bike, your call
 

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I didn't take links out of my chain because it was the original endless one and I wanted to keep it that way.
Once I hit the stops I will though, and at that time I'm going to fit a non-O'ring chain. which has less rolling resistance.
Not rocket science but an interesting mod all the same. :)
 

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I'm going to fit a non-O'ring chain. which has less rolling resistance.
Not rocket science but an interesting mod all the same. :)
More maintenance though. That is the benefit of o/x/z ring changes. Less maintenance. Couldn't imagine having a non o-ring for my commuter.
 

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More maintenance though. That is the benefit of o/x/z ring changes. Less maintenance. Couldn't imagine having a non o-ring for my commuter.
Yep, I agree, those chains are a great invention. However I don't commute, mainly sports riding and I was doing track days on it.
I was at the race track the other weekend and there was a guy there racing a Ninja 300, full on track bike, all the fruit etc.
He had a thin side plate, non-Oring chain on it that was so slim line I mistook it for a 428 conversion kit at first. He had it up on a paddock stand and spun the rear wheel for me. Well, it just kept going and going and going like the energizer bunny. Impressive.
I already have the chain in my garage so may as well bang it on, but sure it will require more regular tightening probably and wont last as long. Like most things, there's always trade offs.
 

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I didn't take links out of my chain because it was the original endless one and I wanted to keep it that way. ....
I got a 300R OEM chainset, today, for my 250R.
And I think, the chain-lenght is not really of concern.
Minimum for the first 10-15.000 km.

Here a picture to guess the diameter change compared to a 38T, that comes on top of the 36T's 2 links less on the sprocket


 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Lemmy, I ride a 300R and can tell you it has a 108 link chain standard. Ive dropped one tooth on my sprockets from standard and at 8K miles on the clock I'm nearly out of adjustment.

This is properly the answer I was looking for, if ordering a 14/36 set I would opt for the 106 chain length to allow for an optional 13T front without running out of adjustment.
 

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This is properly the answer I was looking for, if ordering a 14/36 set I would opt for the 106 chain length to allow for an optional 13T front without running out of adjustment.
For the 13/36 (custom), you need for 108 links (Check on gearingcommander.com ) just 4mm more! (to 14/36-108)
But with the 14/36 (current) but 106 links, you need almost 1 cm space, to the front. Direct after assembling it.





You have one more cm, from a new 108 link 14/38 combination, to the front?

I still have in mind, that I'll have to cut of 2 links in about 15000km . Maybe.
But till then, I do not see a problem with 14/36 and 108 links.

Ok, I just start seeing one:
108 links, 36 t = every chain link hit always the very same tooth on the rear sprocket
Now I remember, why I was usually looking for a 37t sprocket in steel.
Couldn't find one, all aluminium.
So106 links would be better!
But only 26 hp and a 520 chain
;-)
ok, will report later
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just to finish off this thread


Bought a new (CBR300) 14/36 combination, runs ok but not quite my style, so changed to 13/36 which is just under standard +2% and it works for me.


Pic below are for the 13/36 on 108 link chain (no adjustment left at all) and after I removed I link pair and fitted an VX heavy duty master link. (106 link chain).

Cant upload any pics at the moment, just lets say, 13/36 on 108 link chain is a max adjustment and 13/36 on 106 link chain is at minimum adjustment
 

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Assuming you meant a 36 tooth rear (you wrote 46)?

Setting aside the chain length issue, and comparing the ratios of these sprocket combinations, there isn't much of a difference in final drive ratio after changing to the 13/36...

13/36 = 2.769

14/38 = 2.714 (stock)


Not much of a net change... dropping one tooth on the front and two on the rear basically cancelled each other out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mike,

I wanted to see what the 14/36 CBR300 was like, to tall for me personally and 13/38 was too low when i tried it last year, so i was left with with an as new 13T front after i returned the gearing to stock.

When the chain set wore out and i had to cut out a link from the std chain to gain some adjustment it was time for some new parts.

I managed to score a brand new endless 108 chain and 36T rear from a 0 mile breaker on ebay for £35 and a 14T front for £9.95. ( a full DID O-rng set n the uk is £98.0)

I tried the 14/36 and then went to the 13/36 as a compromise, i now have a as new 14T front in stock for the change back to 14/38 in 9-10 thousand miles time when the 13/36 wears out.
 
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