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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Anti-Seize is your friend when working on motorcycles, so lube the Output shaft, retaining plate and bolts.


Slip the sprocket into the chain.


Put the sprocket onto the shaft.
Install the retaining plate then turn it to where the bolts line up,
You may need to rotate it 180 degrees because the 2 bolt holes have a different PCD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Tighten the bolts and re fit the sprocket cover.
Refer to page 63-65 of the owners manual for adjusting the chain, but make it 30-35mm slack in the the lower half of the chain midway between the sprockets.


Before (14T sprocket.)


After (13T sprocket)


Moved it exactly one mark.
 

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Awesome. I can't wait. Hopefully I won't have time to consciously think "wow, I have time to think about watching the tach climb to redline at WOT" in 2nd gear as I'm watching the tach climb to redline at WOT. That, and achieving my goal of being able to say "way to get up that slight incline on the interstate without dropping speed or downshifting, little bike."

Anyhow, thanks to you guys here and the superbike shop where I live, I'll be making the switch with no hesitation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To remove the std (heavy DID O'ring) chain



Carefully grind the pins down below the sideplates with a 4" grinder,
centrepunch the pins and the plate pops off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Adjust the chain to 35mm slack measured between the sprockets MINIMUM.
Loose = Good, Tight = bad.



Turn the rear wheel 2-3 rotations of the chain while giving it a squirt of the good stuff.
 
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