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im asking about re-using the old o ring chain which would be removed after grinding the links off..

and hows the bike feeling after the standard chain change.
Still the same answer... as long as you only grind off one link from the stock chain, you would just need to use a new master link of the same size, type, and manufacturer in order to re-install that chain.

Aufitt's photo that you previously posted shows shortening a 120 link chain, down to 108 links... he was actually installing a non o-ring chain for race use on his bike. Unless you are doing the same (installing a non o-ring chain for racing), or are replacing your original stock chain because its worn out, there would be no reason to grind off a link from your chain, just to re-install it again.
 

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Still the same answer... as long as you only grind off one link from the stock chain, you would just need to use a new master link of the same size, type, and manufacturer in order to re-install that chain.

Aufitt's photo that you previously posted shows shortening a 120 link chain, down to 108 links... he was actually installing a non o-ring chain for race use on his bike. Unless you are doing the same (installing a non o-ring chain for racing), or are replacing your original stock chain because its worn out, there would be no reason to grind off a link from your chain, just to re-install it again.
Thanks for the infor moto. i was planning to use the non o ring for normal use. and maybe few practice sessions as well as touring....would that be advisable provided maintenence is done..
and guess you have done the rear sets just like aufit. dimensions would be great too .. trying to make one ::eek:
 

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Thanks for the infor moto. i was planning to use the non o ring for normal use. and maybe few practice sessions as well as touring... would that be advisable provided maintenence is done?
In my opinion, the stock o-ring type of chain is a better choice for normal, everyday street/road riding... non o-ring chains are fine for race track use where most riders are willing to do the work of a higher level of maintenance, and at the same time are not expecting to put a lot of miles on those chains.
 

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In my opinion, the stock o-ring type of chain is a better choice for normal, everyday street/road riding... non o-ring chains are fine for race track use where most riders are willing to do the work of a higher level of maintenance, and at the same time are not expecting to put a lot of miles on those chains.
yep.. sounds good too.. and still searching for a cheap rear sprocket fix with 40 T
 

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I am thinking of installing a new chain this week and possibly new rear sprocket. I am going to have the shop do it since I don't have a secure lift for the bike. With the 13t sprocket is it 108 lengths? Definitely doing the o ring. Chain has a little more life on it but its right at the line and I have some other maintenance. Thanks.


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WOW. The 13T feels great. Thanks Aufitt for the post, very helpful to match instructions to visuals
 

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In my opinion, the stock o-ring type of chain is a better choice for normal, everyday street/road riding... non o-ring chains are fine for race track use where most riders are willing to do the work of a higher level of maintenance, and at the same time are not expecting to put a lot of miles on those chains.
I'd agree with that. The original DID o-ring chain that came on my bike lasted 9,000 miles. I replaced it with a cheap non o-ring chain, purely because it was only £25. That lasted 3,000 miles, but I don't think that I had my chain oiler set up correctly, and it wasn't getting enough lubrication. I got another non o-ring chain, and adjusted my chain oiler to give a bit more oil. That one lasted 4,000 miles. Whilst the non o-ring chains didn't last long, they were cost effective, as a new, good quality o-ring chain and sprockets costs around the £100 mark over here. I have just had a decent Tsubaki o-ring chain and sprockets fitted, so we'll see how long that lasts.
 

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So i bought a OEM replacement PLate/Sprocket. I notice on the gear when you put the sprocket on...if you pushit all the way in the retaining plate wont line up.....except if you pull teh sprocket towards you...is there suppose to be this free play?
 

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So i bought a OEM replacement PLate/Sprocket. I notice on the gear when you put the sprocket on...if you pushit all the way in the retaining plate wont line up.....except if you pull teh sprocket towards you...is there suppose to be this free play?
I struggled with this for a long time when i first changed my sprocket; I had to call a few people before I got an answer. If I am understanding you correctly: The sprocket goes all the way on, then the retainer plate goes on around the section where there are no grooves-just a smooth circle. You then bolt the retainer plate to the sprocket. The grooves on the outermost part of the driveshaft will not align with the retainer plate, which is its function; it prevents the sprocket from sliding off. There will be a small amount of free play of the sprocket along the rotational axis of the driveshaft, which I believe is only due to the tolerance of the retainer plate and the smooth section of the driveshaft that is rests in.

Hope that helps
 

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10 Nm or 7 lb/ft, is just a little tweak over finger tight, same for the oil filer cover bolts and they break off real easy.

All you are securing is a small keeper plate, so no hanging of that spanner, it will only end in grief.
 

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