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Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?

For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.
 

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... but on the mA 4000 scale it was reading 11, on the micro-amp 400 scale it was only reading 3.7 . So I reckon someone will have to tell me whether it's in spec or not.
0.01 A and 11 m/A is, if I did not forget everything, the same.
And in case you have 11m/A, the µ/A should be out of spec, here.

Question is, how much the clock needs
 

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The 11 mA and 3.7 uA reading was a spurious reading. Not genuine, authentic, or true; not from the claimed, pretended, or proper source; counterfeit.

He didn't have the red meter lead plugged into correct input on his meter.

The 0.34 mA max leakage current is what is specified by Honda. Any more and something is wrong.
 

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The 11 mA and 3.7 uA reading was a spurious reading. Not genuine, authentic, or true; not from the claimed, pretended, or proper source; counterfeit.

He didn't have the red meter lead plugged into correct input on his meter.

The 0.34 mA max leakage current is what is specified by Honda. Any more and something is wrong.

It could have helped, to show the total meter.
Btw: Does this meter have only one position, for Amp reading?
I know some, where you have one for the big (A), and another for the smaller (uA). And you have to take care, sometimes the mA reads at the A plugs, sometimes at the uA plugs.

If 0.37 mA is right, then 'his' 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps is not, right?

How good/old is the battery of the meter?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
From my understanding: my current leakage reading is correct; as it is under the allowable max. As for the battery in the meter; is is new within the past 3 months. Is my reading similar to anybody elses?

I'll be sure to document my setup better next time; that would have helped me to avoid my first superfluous readings.
 

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Mine was like .07mA or something like that when I checked mine I could be wrong but it was well under the currant leakage.

Did your dash die when it stalled? When my stator went out the dash died first than the bike would run rough than die.
My resistance readings were all over the place on the stator though plus it was burnt so I could tell it went out.
 

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Can someone educate me on why the leakage test matters in this case?

For cars we only did that when we had issues with a battery going dead over a few days of sitting. We didn't even use a voltmeter - just disconnect a cable and put a 12V test light in series between the cable and the battery. If the light illuminated we knew there was a draw somewhere.

The current leakage is in the troubleshooting guide as one way to test the regulator/rectifier. If you get high leakage current reading you unplug the regulator/rectifier, if leakage current drops below maximum of .34 mA you have a bad regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier can also go bad and show no leakage current if an internal component "opens", or blows like a fuse would.

A 12 volt test won't light at these small currents. I have a small pocket size test light that I bought at a BMW dealer and it draws 250 mA's or 1/4 amp.
 

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It could have helped, to show the total meter.
Btw: Does this meter have only one position, for Amp reading?
I know some, where you have one for the big (A), and another for the smaller (uA). And you have to take care, sometimes the mA reads at the A plugs, sometimes at the uA plugs.

If 0.37 mA is right, then 'his' 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps is not, right?

How good/old is the battery of the meter?
The Fluke 87 has two current input jacks 10 amp jack with 10 amp fuse for over current protection, and mA/uA jack fused for what ever the highest mA range is.

If you mean 0.34 mA maximum leakage current is right. Then his current readings are well below the maximum. Honda doesn't specify a "typical" or normal leakage current reading, only maximum allowable leakage current.
 

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If you mean 0.34 mA maximum leakage current is right. Then his current readings are well below the maximum. Honda doesn't specify a "typical" or normal leakage current reading, only maximum allowable leakage current.
Right, it's only about 1/10 of the given 0.34 mA by Honda.
The number, Honda is tellin us, is not really a leaking.
It's a max. total of the specifyed load of the closed current, that the bike will use, if off.
The watch, which is a total digital unit here, is one part of it.
And this closed current varies only a little, because of the tolerances of electric components.

Out of my understanding, only 10% of that said 0.34 mA is to little.

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It's now reading anywhere from 27 microamps to 31 microamps; or 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps
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Even half of it, only, would make it suspicious!
So I would check, if the meter reads right/ is good enough, for the job.

As smaller the range, as more the influence of the tolerance/quality, of the meter.

What is the reading from the batterie, if fully charged with a charger, yesterday, and testet, today.
And how is that changing, putting it back in the bike and only turning the key for some minutes?
How does it restore, after the load?
You bike can't charge the batt, if there is a cell down! 12.5V on 5k rpm looks to me, that maybe 1 cell is down, already
 

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That was my issue: I had forgotten to move the red lead to the mA slot. All readings are now within spec; with the rectifier and without. It's now reading anywhere from 27 microamps to 31 microamps; or 0.027 miliamps to 0.031 miliamps. I guess I'll be waiting until my gasket comes in to re do the voltage testing on the rectifier; because it seems we've exhausted all of the tests that can be done with the bike torn apart.
I checked mine, it also measures 27 microamps and .03 milliamps

I checked it with two different meters.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Mine was like .07mA or something like that when I checked mine I could be wrong but it was well under the currant leakage.

Did your dash die when it stalled? When my stator went out the dash died first than the bike would run rough than die.
My resistance readings were all over the place on the stator though plus it was burnt so I could tell it went out.
I don't remember the dash dying first but it might have. I just remember the bike shutting off while it was sitting there idling. And it wouldn't crank after that; just the dreaded crackling of a low-power battery trying to spin the starter.

I'm leaning more towards the regulagor/rectifier being bad now; the stator is measuring within spec at all times and has no continuity to ground. It also doesn't look burnt at all. I'm just waiting for the gasket to come in so I can put the stator back together and do more tests on the R/R with the bike running.
@gyrotumbler thanks for checking your measuremenrs. It would appear that my leakage is just fine then.
 

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I don't remember the dash dying first but it might have. I just remember the bike shutting off while it was sitting there idling. And it wouldn't crank after that; just the dreaded crackling of a low-power battery trying to spin the starter.

I'm leaning more towards the regulagor/rectifier being bad now; the stator is measuring within spec at all times and has no continuity to ground. It also doesn't look burnt at all. I'm just waiting for the gasket to come in so I can put the stator back together and do more tests on the R/R with the bike running.
@gyrotumbler thanks for checking your measuremenrs. It would appear that my leakage is just fine then.
When you get it put together measure the battery voltage first without key on. Fully charged AGM battery should be around 13 V.

When I turn my key on mine drops to about 12.2 V.

When I start my engine I get 14.2 V. Mine don't change much from idle to 5k rpm

The charging voltage should be higher than battery voltage but lower than 15.5 volts.

In the picture of your battery it looks like some accessory wires are hooked to the battery cable. Battery tender pigtail? something else?

I installed one of these voltmeters on my bike not too long ago. I highly recommend them. I cut the two mounting tab off and velcroed it to the upper cowl:

 

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From earlier posts, It seems that the charging system is malfunctioning, and a leak test failure can help isolate the cause to a bad rectifier.
 

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Did anyone ask how old the battery is? These little things only reliably last for a few years.
I would guess it is either the battery, which is more than three years old, you should replace anyway, or the RR.
I assume you checked for shorts? Disconnect any accessories?
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Just wanted to update everyone:
Gasket for the left crankcase just came in today, so I put everything back together.
Stator resistance is within spec when cold, so I turned on the bike. the idle voltage was around 12.6V but when the engine is rev'd to 5k RPMs, the battery voltage reads 14.18.

While it was running at one point the idle voltage went up to 14v, but then dropped back down and it hasn't done it since. I didn't touch the bike before, or while this was happening, it just appeared and disappeared on its on. I find this very unusual.
I'm fixing to take the bike for a short ride to see if anything changes after it is up to full operating temp.
As per the service manual, this is what I have checked thus far today;
Battery voltage was at 12.96 before cranking
Battery voltage was at 12.5 just after starting
Current leakage test passes, it is still at 0.03 miliamps (well below the allowable maximum)
stator resistances are all around 0.6 ohms (at the back end of the 3P connector coming from the stator)
voltage @ the R/R measure exactly what the battery does
I'll double check the resistances @ the R/R for the stator but they were the same as at the back of the 3P connector to the best of my knowledge
Thanks for the help that everyone has given thus far!
By the way, the battery tested good from a load test in the past week, and the battery is less then 1 year old. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Took the bike for a quick 15ish minute ride. Resistances for the stator are still in spec, around 0.6 ohms at the back of the 3p connector and @ the rectifier.
Voltage at the rectifier says around 12.6 or so at idle and 14.1ish @ 5k RPMs.

as a small update: the voltage picks up to 14V right around 2.5k RPMs; would this be usual? I'm wondering now if there wasn't just a small short or loose connection that has been fixed during the course of me messing with everything. I'm half tempted just to put it all back together; purchase a voltmeter like @gyrotumbler has suggested and then ride happy. However, I'll wait to see what you all say first.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
By the way; I also just did AC output tests on the Stator. This test isn't in the service manual, but was suggested on here, and through other threads.
for phase 1 and 2, the idle voltage is about 12-14 AC V and when the rpm goes up to 2.5k, it goes to 14-16 AC V each.
For the last phase however, the AC output is only 2.6V at idle and actually goes down when increasing the rpm. Does this give a sure indication that the stator is bad? It looked absolutely fine when I had pulled it out, though I know that really doesn't always mean anything.
 

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If the regulator/rectifier is still hooked up while making the ac readings one of the rectifiers could be breaking down under the voltage load causing the low voltage reading.

Rectifiers or diodes are famous for doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I'll try and do the AC voltage test again sometime this week to determine if it is the R/R then; if so that would be awesome! I'll post back later on this week and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the input @gyrotumbler and everyone else! by the way; I ended up purchasing a voltmeter like you had linked to (as a bonus; my bike has green underglow so the display will match that @ night). What did you splice the positive to? Lights or ignition or something?
 
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