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This is just a guess but a shorted diode or one that breaks down under load may heat that winding up. Maybe it just heats the diode up.

The voltmeter can be hooked to almost any thing that is switched on by the key except the head lights, and the two position lights on each side of the head light. You will get a lower reading than the actual battery voltage when the the key is turned on because of the high current draw of the headlight.

Mine is a little complicated. It's connected straight to the battery through a 1A fuse and relay. The relay coil is powered by tail/tag light. Then I have a normally open, momentary contact push button switch that can jump the relay contacts to read the open circuit battery voltage without the key being on.
 

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A plus and minus Ammeter is what is really needed to know if the charging system is keeping up at idle. Getting stuck in traffic in hot weather could make the cooling fan stay on. I wonder if all the bikes are very close to not making a positive charge at idle and with the fan on.
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You could rig up an inductive amp clamp at the battery cable to see plus and minus flow into and out of the battery under different conditions.
 

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I've thought about putting on one of these:

DROK® Digital Voltage Current Tester Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter DC 0-100V/50A Volt Amp 2in1 Volt Ampere Panel Meter Red/Red LED Display Amperage VA Gauge Monitor with Shunt Car Motorcycle etc - Voltage Testers - Amazon.com


It's not waterproof, and the shunt has to be installed between the negative battery post and neg battery cable. The ammeter leads are connected to each side of the shunt. The way this is connected it reads total current draw of everything. It can be connected to the red/white wire from regulator to read charging current only. I don't know what size ammeter is needed.
They also make ammeters that use a transformer to sense current instead of a shunt. I don't know if the sensor leads can be extended or not.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBYF8JO/ref=as_li_tl?tag=proeng-20&keywords=dc+voltmeter+ammeter

It not being waterproof and about half the reviews are bad, I decided I don't need one. Over 50% are good reviews though.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well, the volt meter that came in today was the non-waterproof version (though I ordered the waterproof one!), so I'll be delayed a few more days until the new (and hopefully correct one) comes in. I haven't had the time this week to check the AC voltages yet with the R/R unplugged due to work and classes, though I reckon I may get to it Thursday (To pull off the fairings again etc), and let you know what the result is.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
So the AC voltage output from the Stator even when the R/R was unplugged remained the same- 2V from 1 phase, 9v from the 2nd and 11 from the 3rd at idle and 2v from the first and 16ish from 2 and 3 at higher rpm's. I've ordered a new stator and I'll let you all know how it works when it comes in and I put it in.

Also; I put in the Voltmeter today- wired it to some green LEDs that were already hooked to a switch. I verified that it reads the same voltage as the battery at this point. Took it on a nice 25ish min trip, and the voltage of the battery never would go over about 13.3V after the bike was warmed up, even at 10k rpms. At idle it would drop down to 12.2V
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Since I had never posted back:
As an upddate- After putting in the new stator, the voltage is correct across all RPM's (14.1 or 14.2v, even at idle). The new voltmeter also looks pretty good. thanks everyone that helped out! It was really just weird that there were no burn marks or anything on the stator, the only thing wrong with it was the AC output at the different phases.
 

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Since I had never posted back:
As an upddate- After putting in the new stator, the voltage is correct across all RPM's (14.1 or 14.2v, even at idle). The new voltmeter also looks pretty good. thanks everyone that helped out! It was really just weird that there were no burn marks or anything on the stator, the only thing wrong with it was the AC output at the different phases.
You could reinstall the old one to see if you can repeat the problem! It could have just been bad like out of tolerance from the factory too.
 

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Since I had never posted back:
As an upddate- After putting in the new stator, the voltage is correct across all RPM's (14.1 or 14.2v, even at idle). The new voltmeter also looks pretty good. thanks everyone that helped out! It was really just weird that there were no burn marks or anything on the stator, the only thing wrong with it was the AC output at the different phases.
I'm in the same boat. Traced everything back to the stator when testing. Ordered a new one, disassembled the crank case and removed the old stator. Old stator looks immaculate.
I'm going to install the new one and hope it works out, like Joe5181's did. if not I'll install a new rectifier/regulator & hope that works.
It was comforting to find that there are bad stators that show no visible signs of damage. I'll report my findings after my stator install is complete and I've ridden my bike again.
 

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Batteries loses their capacity over time. A dead battery will also show similar voltage as a new battery but when it gets current drawn its voltage will drop deadly. When battery is dead it will start drawing more current in charging period. While you ride your bike your stator windings of your bike tries to charge the battery. When the current that your battery sucks becomes higher than the current that stator windings can supply, its voltage will start to drop and as result bike will stop. reason is that battery becomes a load instead of a storage. Lead acit batteries should be regularly tested every year. Also should be replaced every two year. Since your bike is 2011 i assume your battery is older than 3 year and probably dead. Try with a new battery if works your issue is solved. If not that means there is a issue with cabling which requires thorough maintenanace because you already checked rectifiers and stator windings.
 
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