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Cheap replacement Muffler

3442 Views 73 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Tamir
I've read everything available about the best muffler to replace that hulking beast hanging off the right side, but I'm not interested in sounding great or building a few HP's, I want that Nimitz class anchor gone. I know this bike will never sound or perform like an inline-4 liter bike so it's really pointless to spend $400 and up for a high quality titanium slip-on. Are there any sub $100 slip-ons that will not require me to get a Dyno with a complete ECU remap and that won't melt or explode in a ball of glowing-hot confetti? I've done the straight-pipe thing and that's too loud.

Also, does anyone know the pipe diameter? Additionally, I do not weld.

Essentially, I just want something that won't interfere with my swing-arm stand and has a half-life greater than one riding season.

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Are there any sub $100 slip-ons that will not require me to get a Dyno with a complete ECU remap
Those who runs after performance improvement will usually also be the one who rides hard at high rpm most of the time. In this case the re-programming of the ECU is important for two purposes: 1. Taking advantage of the change in exhaust for performance improvement. 2. Increasing engine life. Just remember: Engine life is a relativeiy, because whoever rides hard at high rpm his engine will not last long.
does anyone know the pipe diameter?
These are the dimensions I take from NEW MUFFLER GASKET 18392-KYJ-901
("where it slips on to the rest of the exhaust "):
I.D. 38mm
O.D. 44mm

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Essentially, I just want something that won't interfere with my swing-arm stand and has a half-life greater than one riding season.
I would try to order an pipe adapter and Muffler hose set from AliExpress, from 100USD you will get a money return.
I find it interesting. It is not clear the quality of the materials in terms of rust etc.
But the good price is for sure.
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Just muffler swaps won't give you much, if anything at all.
Not necessarily.
As our model get oldy and the miles are collected, so does the catalytic converter get clogged. When the converter is clogged you have two options to open it:
1. To greet him out by welding work (LINK), Or...
2. You buy a new one.
At the new one, if it's not the original muffler (neither expensive nor cheap), you do not have a catalytic converter.
The difference between a clogged catalytic converter and a free gas passage is a difference in power, a noticeable difference, a difference that does not require any "dyno-tune and re-program " of the ECM, is just there, there is more power available to use.
I'm a firm believer in keeping the bike stock as much as possible...
How "much as possible"?
You have 6 options: 1. Stick with what you have now (Sorry, I did not really understand what is your problem with it). And this is also the cheapest way 2. Buy a new OEM muffler that includes a catalytic converter, a really quiet exhaust. 3. Take a bad used OEM and remove the blocked catalytic converter. 4. Buy used OEM in good condition. 5. Buy a new generic aftermarket exhaust without a catalytic converter. 6. Buy a used generic aftermarket exhaust without a catalytic converter.

... Adding power almost always results in a shorter lifespan.
YES

... the proper procedure for replacing a muffler with an aftermarket one is to get the ECU programmed and the bike Dyno tuned. A bike will still run, just not up to it's optimal potential.
It is impossible to talk about "optimal" for a issue that is irrelevant for you.
It does not exist "right or wrong" fo your issue!
Your decision is related to what you want to achieve?
If you are not interested in power, and if you do not intend to ride hard, the whole issue of Dyno & Tuned is not relevant for you at all. Besides, there are dozens of other parameters that relevant to performance improving , therefore, there is no meaning to dealing only with the issue of muffler. It's meaningless for you, right or wrong? For you this is not a question that comes close to being relevant.
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Big Cahuna just wants to get a smaller pipe for short money...
NO
Essentially, I just want something that won't interfere with my swing-arm stand...
I probably did not understand, and Big Cahuna currently has the original muffler. OK
I think that in such a case the best solution is what you bought:
T-Rex Racing Honda CB300F / CBR250R / CBR300R Spool Adapters (t-rex-racing.com)
And order for the stand a pair of forks instead of the spoons
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That was helpful. I went online and looked. I came across another type which screws into the back end of the swing-arm. I just bought it and it came well under the T-Rex system. Including tax and shipping it was $19.52. I'll post a review after they arrive and I have had a chance to use them.

View attachment 45356
The type which screws into the back end of the swing-arm
is NOT good.

It is not possible to adjust the chain slack with it, and it is not possible to lower the rear wheel with it, this is a very limited solution.
How to mount swingarm spools
T-Rex system is GOOD
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2
Woseme muffler Enjoy it(y)(y)(y)
Big Cahuna maybe you check out the next idea???
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No it's connected with 2 springs. You will need a "cross-pipe" though with 2 loops for attaching. Once you get the pipe, you can attach any 51mm slip-on that you like.

(Cross-Pipe Link)
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There are SIX main differences:
  1. The original exhaust acts like a slider and protects the motorcycle during an accident if the motorcycle skidding on the road
  2. The original exhaust contains a built-in catalytic converter.
  3. The original exhaust has a heat shield. It's a very, very safety component.
  4. The original exhaust is much heavier.
  5. The original exhaust is more expensive.
  6. There is the issue of design.
  7. There is the sound issue, the original is very quiet.
Do I need to dyno the bike with this exhaust?
No you did not need.
Would there be any issues from not doing a remap and running them?
No issues.
are there any negative impacts to the engine/bike from just keeping the ECU as is?
No
Don't feel like buying a 400eur power commander for a 50 eur exhaust lol
Yes you don't need to buying a Power Commander.
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but:
1. If the change was made tof improving performance, then it is possible that updating a map can bring further improvement. Either way it's negligible.
2. Those who ride sporty at high RPMs significantly reduce the life of the engine regardless of the type of exhaust.
3. If you currently have an original exhaust whose catalytic converter is clogged, replacing it with an exhaust without a catalytic converter will improve the engine power.
Also there's the expensive part. The exhaust guard costs 60 eur, it actually protects the exhaust and the bike very well (I have crashed on that side) but its expensive to replace.
There is no doubt that one of the important advantages of the original exhaust is as a slider that protects the motorcycle in case of sliding on the road, (and I updated my list above). This can be a very good reason to keep the original exhaust.
And now that I look again at a screenshot from AliExpress, I see that they gave a kind of solution to the slider issue. But because it's a type of rod, and like a rod it doesn't take all the forces that the original Slider/Muffler does. The "rod" type slider is not an effective slider (it is only good for falls from a static standing position).
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Oh, how could I have missed it, the original exhaust has a heat shield.
It's a very, very safety component.
A :eek:💥🔥burns from a boiling exhaust can be fatal)🔥💥:eek:
(I edited it into my list above _ LINK)
So I dont think its really worth having sliders on this particular bike.
Your complete explanation is really convincing. I think like you, and I know from experience that the original design guard the motorcycle in the most reasonable way. The weights at the end of the handlebars are sliders that Honda provides for free (build-in) as a part of all the design. My CBR motorcycle was skidded by the previous owners, and there are slight damage to the paint, on the central main cover, on the front wheel mudguard, and on the heat shield of the exhaust. The rear brake lever is also a little bended, and I bended back into place...small and tolerable defects.
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Also does anyone know what the diameter of the inner end of the middle exhaust link is in mm?
PIPE, EX.
18320-KYJ-900

**I.D. = 35mm
**O.D = 38mm

GASKET, MUFFLER
18392-KYJ-901

**I.D. = 38mm
**O.D = 44mm

**These are nominal dimensions
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Is 42mm too wide?
Size 42 does not fit. If you order a part that says it fits our model, and it doesn't fit, then you can open a dispute, attach photos with measurements, and get your money back. And, these kinds of changes require the ability to make adjustments...etc
In the comments here (Big Cahuna), the guy from https://www.aliexpress.com bought it and then wrote that the size doesn't fit...making such a custom change D.I.Y requires knowledge, ability, patience, and it takes time.
The reason i'm asking is because I wanted the blue finish on the mid pipe but I haven't found any with that finish for our bike :(
It's a matter of free time, budget, and ability...Do It Yourself is a hobby, you can order when you know there is a degree of uncertainty, and then maybe make adjustments. Customization is a serious matter, there is a lot to know about this subject...learning takes time, and it costs money, mistakes also cost money. it is what it is.
That review was mine and it turns out the pipe DID fit, but the clamp it came with was too big and didn't clamp it tight.
(y)
Cold start video is uploaded. I'll post another video at higher RPM when I take it and get it warmed up.
Thanks for the video!(y)(y)(y)
Sounds great. The two exhaust pipes in the back transmit much more power, it's like they do in 3-cylinder engines. In the picture:
  1. Turn the clamp so that point A goes up.
  2. Do not ride with zipper B. Make a rigid adapter from metal C.
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