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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Well, ordered the cheap ali-express spool adapters and I think they'll work just fine. They're milled aluminum, simple in design, and I see no obvious weakness in the engineering. If I run into any issues I'll post an update.

Price including shipping on ebay was $19.52. Spool Adapter
I did add a nicer spool and those were under $3 on aliexpress.

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ordered a bootleg slip-on and installed it. It was about $90 after buying extra parts and shipping. The db-killer didn't fit so I couldn't use it, and it sounds almost like a straight-pipe under acceleration. At cruising speed and idle it is a bit softer. Sounds like a 2 stroke dirt-bike in my opinion with a deeper in tone and it's a pleasant sound albeit it a screamer at throttle. I still have to secure it to the bracket but for the time being it's clamped on tight enough.

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Woseme muffler Enjoy it(y)(y)(y)
 

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Big Cahuna maybe you check out the next idea???
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Oh wow I didn't know there was such a thing, so cheap as well! Do I need to dyno the bike with this exhaust? Would there be any issues from not doing a remap and running them?

Edit: I understand I wouldn't get the full HP benefit If I didn't retune, but are there any negative impacts to the engine/bike from just keeping the ECU as is? Don't feel like buying a 400eur power commander for a 50 eur exhaust lol
 

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There are SIX main differences:
  1. The original exhaust acts like a slider and protects the motorcycle during an accident if the motorcycle skidding on the road
  2. The original exhaust contains a built-in catalytic converter.
  3. The original exhaust has a heat shield. It's a very, very safety component.
  4. The original exhaust is much heavier.
  5. The original exhaust is more expensive.
  6. There is the issue of design.
  7. There is the sound issue, the original is very quiet.
Do I need to dyno the bike with this exhaust?
No you did not need.
Would there be any issues from not doing a remap and running them?
No issues.
are there any negative impacts to the engine/bike from just keeping the ECU as is?
No
Don't feel like buying a 400eur power commander for a 50 eur exhaust lol
Yes you don't need to buying a Power Commander.
 
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but:
1. If the change was made tof improving performance, then it is possible that updating a map can bring further improvement. Either way it's negligible.
2. Those who ride sporty at high RPMs significantly reduce the life of the engine regardless of the type of exhaust.
3. If you currently have an original exhaust whose catalytic converter is clogged, replacing it with an exhaust without a catalytic converter will improve the engine power.
 

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Thanks for the answer.
Yeah our OEM exhaust is VERY quiet. Too quiet ... main reason for wanting a slip-on.
Also the size is a bit annoying for maintenance.

Also there's the expensive part. The exhaust guard costs 60 eur, it actually protects the exhaust and the bike very well (I have crashed on that side) but its expensive to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You only need to dyno-tune a bike if you change the headers (pipes from the engine to the muffler). I used to think the same thing too.

Normally I'd keep the stock muffler but I had a scratch on it that was bothering me. And if the bike does topple over I can just buy another cheap muffler. I still have the old muffler that will be sold with the bike when the time comes.
 

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Also there's the expensive part. The exhaust guard costs 60 eur, it actually protects the exhaust and the bike very well (I have crashed on that side) but its expensive to replace.
There is no doubt that one of the important advantages of the original exhaust is as a slider that protects the motorcycle in case of sliding on the road, (and I updated my list above). This can be a very good reason to keep the original exhaust.
 

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And now that I look again at a screenshot from AliExpress, I see that they gave a kind of solution to the slider issue. But because it's a type of rod, and like a rod it doesn't take all the forces that the original Slider/Muffler does. The "rod" type slider is not an effective slider (it is only good for falls from a static standing position).
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Oh, how could I have missed it, the original exhaust has a heat shield.
It's a very, very safety component.
A :eek:💥🔥burns from a boiling exhaust can be fatal)🔥💥:eek:
(I edited it into my list above _ LINK)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Oh, how could I have missed it, the original exhaust has a heat shield.
It's a very, very safety component.
A :eek:💥🔥burns from a boiling exhaust can be fatal)🔥💥:eek:
(I edited it into my list above _ LINK)
I like the idea of frame sliders but like you said, the type that stick out just dig into the ground and end up bending or breaking the frame, a much more catastrophic event than simply sliding along the ground safely wrapped in plastic fairing.

Fairings are replaceable, frames are not.
 

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That's true about the heat shield, the exhaust guard never gets overly hot and I never burned myself on it.

Iv'e thought a lot about sliders for a long time without reaching a good conclusion.

I think the problem with most frame sliders is they don't really slide because they are either too pointy or too weak to endure/disperse energy so they just bent and pierce into the plastics instead, perhaps only useful during stationary ''drops'' instead of crashes.

.And If they are strong but pointy they result in all the energy being focused on the frame which, like Cahuna said, could be a nail in the coffin.
The strong but pointy ones have a positive if you look at certain brands, like SHOGUN or R&G for example use a sortoff '' soft rubber material''. The material is eaten away during the crash dispersing energy, they also use strong metal bases so you can expect them to not bend or focus energy as violently. (
) good example video.

Problem is... last I checked SHOGUN and good quality sliders cost 350eur, for that amount you might as well buy new plastics... (also most on our bikers require drilling holes into the plastics) AND they are a one time deal, you crash with them at speed and you have to replace them.

OEM plastics are very strong, and at the end of the day are the perfect sliders... it's just a shame they are so **** expensive and without sliders no matter the speed of the crash they will get scratches and ruin our bikes look.

Iv'e heard of people buying chinese aftermarket fairings, they ride with them effectively using them as sliders and keeping the OEM safe and sound at home. It's a good idea except chinese fairings are very brittle, so allthough cheap they wouldn't do a good job as sliders.


^This design is interesting, looks more ''sliding'' friendly, but if its not strong, I can see it bending inwards into the fairings and causing some damage :/

So iv'e crashed on both sides of my bike without sliders, at fairly decent speeds. and both times damage was focused on the plastics, the bar-end weights, exhaust guard, passenger footpegs and gear shifter. passenger footpegs still look fine, gearshift had to be fixed, but replacement wise is say it all falls to the plastics, exhaust guards and bar end weights. All pretty much equal to the price of high quality sliders. (maybe a tad bit more expensive). So I dont think its really worth having sliders on this particular bike.
 
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